Hello, starting step van conversion.

[lolailando]

Hello everyone,
I have been lurking for a few years and finally bought the project truck.
1994 GMC stepvan with utiliymaster 18' box, repowered with the 4bdt2 diesel 3.9 turbo.
The vin number returns "W series C4 4500". The front axle is monobeam with not springs but airbags and shocks. I would appreciate help finding the "name" of this chasis. It is a very narrow chasis; 72" between outside of front tires, but box is 92" wide.

I would appreciate any suggestions for this build.
I choose this engine because it the only one suppose to be able to do 20-22mpg on veggy, and that was my goal.

It has sliding doors on both sides. I plan to eliminate the passenger sliding door, and add a motorhome type door a few feet behind. I plan to eliminate the patition/cargo door behind the front seats for an open plan; and replace front seat with rotating captain chairs that become part of the living space.
The living space then becomes roughly 21'x8'.
Floor, walls and ceiling will be insulated with polyurethane expanding foam and baltic plywood to basically build a box within the box to insulate noise, heat and cold.
I would like to "inject" expanding foam between the aluminum shell and the plywood to obtain a real sandwich composite that would helo with strenght , and sound (ratle)......basically the concept of injecting foam in a beer can .........I still don't have a solid method......thinking to screw the plywood to the aluminum "beams" with spacers to keep the plywood from touching, and inject the foam,....or pour selfrising foam.
I took appart a 30' camper trailer so I have all the appliances and systems. It came with a bathtub that I don't think I will use, as I am tending to a wet shower/toilet combo.
I have a 72" sofa/bed from the camper but I am thinking a dinete/bed will be more useful?
I plan to put cargo doors from the outside like a utility truck for tools, etc......mostly on the right side where I will install the 21' awning from the camper.

At this beggining point I would like to find out more about the chasis and if I could add spacer to the duallys on the back or a wider rear end (upgrade to disck brakes). The two "boxes" sticking up for the duallys only leave 35" to walk in between.
The truck plate is rated at GAWR 11,050lb and I estimate the truck weight around 7,200lb? ....so I think I am in good shape with almost 4000lb for build and cargo.
I will post pics as soon as I figure out how to,
thanks everyone for such a great forum,
L

[EastCoastCB]

You got a good truck there.
Put up some pics (I prefer to use Imgur) I can't wait to follow this build. Nice to see something a little different on here.

[nat_ster]

Welcome.

You have a very good, high demand engine. That Cummins 4 BT is worth what three Cummins 6 BT's are worth. It will always hold it's value.

Don't host pics on this site, use a third party image hosting site.

Photobucket is one of the oldest, and still the most reliable of all hosting sites.

Here is a link to help you figure out how to post pics.

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/ho...-op-11846.html

All that info is waiting for you in the build thread section. I would start with threads over 20 pages. That way you will get passed all the failed builds that never go anywhere.

Asking questions will only get you opinions, not experience. The build threads will share the experience they learned the hard way.

If I can't see someone do it, I don't even want to hear what they have to say. People run their mouths far too much.

Glad to have you here. We always like to see one more.

We all look forward to pics.

Nat

[Tango]

Welcome! --- Check the rear axle & frame measures, you might be a candidate for a Dana 80 HD swap. Personally not a fan of spacers on duallies as they load the bearings all wrong and you really can't get that much more width anyway. The Dana is rated at 11,000 and has plenty of gearing options plus you get excellent disk brakes in the deal. I had to relocate the spring perches on the one I put in my '46 but it was not that big a deal.

Love my 4BTAA...do you have any info on yours? If you can make out the serial or Cummins Recon number, you can look it up on Cummins QuickServe site and get all it's specs...HP, torque, injectors, just about everything. Very handy resource. If it is all mechanical with common rail injectors, it is golden. Great engines that can be tweaked in any direction (dial them in for mpg or crank them up to over 800 hp). For the best info around on that motor check out Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums

Best of luck on the build and do get some pix up.

[nikmills]

I'd like to know why a 4 is worth three 6's? The 6 is powerful and gets decent mileage. And lasts if taken care of.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by nikmills

I'd like to know why a 4 is worth three 6's? The 6 is powerful and gets decent mileage. And lasts if taken care of.

They are extremely popular as a "transplant" into a variety of vehicles. If I run across a decent one I want to stuff it in a T-bucket rat rod.

Demand drives prices.

[PNW_Steve]

As far as door deletes go, I would consider deleting the drivers door instead of the drivers side.

If you delete the passenger side and stay in campgrounds /RV parks with hookups your entry door will be on the wrong side.

Also, when you park on the street you will enter and exit the bus on the traffic side instead of the curb side.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by nikmills

I'd like to know why a 4 is worth three 6's? The 6 is powerful and gets decent mileage. And lasts if taken care of.

Don't wait for an answer from Tango, he passed away last month.