Hi friends! I just got my first bus! I'm clueless!!

[1976internat1603]

Hello everybody, I just bought a new bus!..well a new to me bus, and I have so many questions it's ridiculous! A friend of mine recommended this site (probably so I stopped pestering him with my questions) and I'm very excited to explore and discover more about my bus!

It is a 1976 International schoolmaster 1603 (same thing as a loadstar, but with a schoolbus body)

[1976internat1603]

A couple questions I have for right now are where do I find a place to replace my split rim tires? I can't find any any tire shop that is willing to work on it. I'm thinking about replacing the rims, how hard would that be? I can also only find a tiny fuse box in the glove department is there another or is that all I have? Oh and the driver side windshield wipers doesn't work. But none of the fuses say windshield wiper on them which is what makes me think there's possibly more fuses elsewhere?

Anyway I'm totally clueless and I'm excited not to be!

[nikitis]

Might have to visit a truck shop or a Mechanics shops that specializes in Tires. Hard for them to turn down business.

[1976internat1603]

Originally Posted by nikitis

Might have to visit a truck shop or a Mechanics shops that specializes in Tires. Hard for them to turn down business.

How would I search for them, are there keywords I could use on Google maps? Seems regular mechanics don't work on buses often, Thanks for the advice!

[desrtdog]

Originally Posted by 1976internat1603

How would I search for them, are there keywords I could use on Google maps? Seems regular mechanics don't work on buses often, Thanks for the advice!

Where are you located? If in the south, Southern Tire Mart or a Loves truck stop might be a good start. Otherwise Google “truck tires”…

[Albatross]

Honestly, sometimes split-rims essentially require an axle replacement, or on the lighter-side, a hub replacement in order to accommodate modern tires on modern wheels.

We recently did a tire replacement on some split-rims on a forklift and a 1952 Reo in the shop, and it was without incident.

[Stovebolt]

You also should be aware that there is a difference between "split rims" and "multipiece rims" or wheels.


Most heavy vehicle people think of the Firestone RH-5 design when you say "Split" because they are split right in the middle -- you can usually spot them because they have a hump and a seam in the middle of the wheel. They are truly dangerous and most shops are prudent not to work on them.


"Multi-piece" wheels, which you most likely have (by the way, are they Daytons or Budds ??), are solid wheels that use a locking ring on one side to hold the tire bead. They are used with tubed tires. They are safe and good wheels as long as they aren't damaged or rust pitted.


Are your axle hubs spoked or do they have 10 or so lug nuts? If your axles have spokes that hold the wheels, those are called "Dayton" wheels. If they use lug nuts like a car, they are called "Budd" wheels. There are other styles of the lug nutted wheels, but they are generally called Budd wheels.



Most tire shops that handle large commercial trucks or farm equipment will deal with a multipiece wheel. They may fuss a little but they will.


It is possible to find either single piece Daytons or Budd wheels to fit your axles. It may require tripe to junkyards that have commercial vehicles or old school busses. Make sure you know your hub diameter and lug spacing (if Budd wheels) or your diameter and width (if Daytons).


Also make sure you know if your Budds (if you have Budd wheels) are stud piloted or hub piloted.


This all may seem overwhelming at first. And it was for me a long time ago, but these are the things you should know before you go tire and wheel buying/modifying/upgrading.


In the meantime, if you have locking ring/multi-piece wheels, and they aren't damaged or rust pitted in the bead ring area, you should be able to get new replacement tires and drive on while you do your research for the set of tires *after* that.


Have fun!

[Stovebolt]

Just a follow up to show what I was talking about.


The first picture shows a spoked hub with a Dayton wheel.
The second photo shows a Budd wheel of the Split or RH-5 design (VERY dangerous)
The third photo shows detail of the center split.
The 4th image is an illustration of a 3-piece or locking ring Budd wheel that are generally safe, as long as they are in good condition.

[cadillackid]

so first off, I have a 1978 Loadstar 1600 (superior body) with a 392 and an AT540 transmission..


like stovebolt says, hard to beleive you have actual widowmakers.. my local tire shop works on the locking ring rims , both dayton spoke and budd (stud pilot) style...


you *CAN* swap the rims without changing the axles.. on my superior 4 of my rims have been changed over to 22.5" tubeless Stud-pilot.. they bolted right up to the same hub..


one of my other busses originally came with the 20" locking ring with dayton spoke and was changed over to standard 22.5" tuibeless (yes dayton spoke rims can be single piece and use standard tires)..



semi trailewrs use all kinds of different rims so finding wheels often is easiest done at wrecking yards where they repair, scrap, etc trailers..

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

you can get brand new replacement single piece rims to fit that axle from ALCOA.

[1976internat1603]

Thanks for all the useful information everyone! I appreciate all the replies. I called around where I'm at and the only shop within 200 miles that can work on split rims wants to charge me 1000$ for just the 2 front wheels!! I have dulies and they only have 2 tires available so it would be 3000$ and a weeks wait just to replace the rubbers completely....no thank you!

I'm in Northern California on the coast so everything is extremely expensive in this area, I'm planning on driving to the Redding area, as the tires aren't that bad yet and it would probably be a grand cheaper to replace the rims vs where I am now. And I'm going east anyways so it's a win win!

I'll add a couple of photos so y'all can see what I'm working with, my tires right now are 8.25x20 14ply which apparently is super fuckin hard to find now. I have vacuum hydrologic breaks and they are pretty close to the rim itself so idk if that makes it more complicated to replace the rims or not..I'll take it to a shop and figure that out I suppose...

The first 3 photos are of the front passenger side tires, and the last three are of the back passenger side dulies

[Dropout Bus Driver]

Hi Everyone

WHERE oh WHERE can my insurance be?
DO I have a Red flag near my name?
I opened skoolie account 5 yrs ago Had put my bus on hold on my Bus

I'm from NJ because the way they make many things difficult all around. IF I didn't have a deal in a co-op I would leave in a heartbeat
I couldnt get Insurance Then and still Cant





DELAWARE is #1 choice
Well In order of where I Prefer to Title and tag in DELAWARE #1

PENN is #2
In PA I have an address to use Gave my info to one independent agent kept saying his recourses had it they didn't return a quote 3 Weeks and Its a No

#3 MARYLAND Unless its under !t's under $1,100.
Im not sure that MD is easy at all You go to a private STATE Authorized SHOP for Inspection I cant drive it yey no temp plate w/o insurance .

I cant drive it so it may cost 4-$500 a trip one way The INSPECTION cost 75$ and if you fail its another 75$ so $800 towing don't fail. I d rather go to a casino and loose this kind of money its better odds.
In Maryland No Major insurance company will touch it So
I already changed my Licence to Maryland, Hitting a dead end again INSURANCE was $$$$$ More than 2 I pay for of my cars full coverage They are sick.. Independent Brokers Try they Ask other agency's still no quote.
Thanks for listening I you know how to do this? can you point me there.
The DropOut Bus Driver

[1976internat1603]

It might be best to start a new thread with this question friend

[BamaBus]

Dry rot city! I'm in Alabama, so I don't have to worry about you having a blowout.

[Stovebolt]

Those are locking ring wheels -- any good Ag/Big Truck tire shop will be able to put new tires (even tubed radials) on those wheels, as long as they are sound.


They may fuss a bit, but those should be fine.


FWIW, on my 1949 Chevy 1-ton pickup, I run its original multi-piece wheels (that look just like yours) with new tubed bias ply tires at highway speeds all day long. I'm on my third set of tires -- Doing great!




No need to get crazy changing stuff. Just forget about going to a chain tire store. Go where the farmers and truckers go.

[Albatross]

Yeah, those wheels should be fine to replace the rubber on--and like Stovebolt said, just go to a big-rig/agricultural tire place instead of your standard car/truck places.



The only reason we changed the rubber on those old split-rims was because no one in our area would do it, and because the hubs did not match up to any modern wheel patterns, we would have had to change out the whole axle assembly for such a thing to take place, because of how the hubs were attached... And the owner wasn't willing to spring for such a kind of expense and time-crunch.

[tailgate]

Originally Posted by 1976internat1603

A couple questions I have for right now are where do I find a place to replace my split rim tires? I can't find any any tire shop that is willing to work on it. I'm thinking about replacing the rims, how hard would that be? I can also only find a tiny fuse box in the glove department is there another or is that all I have? Oh and the driver side windshield wipers doesn't work. But none of the fuses say windshield wiper on them which is what makes me think there's possibly more fuses elsewhere?

Anyway I'm totally clueless and I'm excited not to be!

Tried to delete what I had posted. I should read what others have written before I write something. LOL