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06-23-2021, 04:09 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 6
Year: 2009
Coachwork: BlueBird vision 21 passanger with 4 wheelchair and
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New member
Hello, just joined , just starting this adventure. Bought a 2009 Bluebird vision 21 passanger with wheelchair lift . Any advice would be welcome!
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06-23-2021, 05:03 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 784
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
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Welcome:
Read this thread:
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/t...nts-35502.html
Do NOT remove wiring willy nilly...otherwise you may disable your bus from cranking.
School buses have safety wiring integrated into the vehicle wiring, removing an innocent looking buzzer may disable your bus.
Did I mention how to avoid disabling your bus??
Google is your friend...so is YouTube. TONs of info on both.
__________________
Steve
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06-23-2021, 09:09 PM
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#3
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 6
Year: 2009
Coachwork: BlueBird vision 21 passanger with 4 wheelchair and
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Thanks , Steve, just starting this project havent even taken seats out yet. Allready searching you tube. Lol
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06-24-2021, 10:04 AM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Northern California (Sacramento)
Posts: 1,424
Year: 1999
Coachwork: El Dorado Fiberglass
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: V10 Gas
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If you are just starting, it is probably a good thing to think about what you want to use the bus for-weekend only, long trips, full time...that will determine what design principles you will need to keep in mind as you plan. For example, our bus is for max 4 days boondocking. This drives solar and battery size, water tank sizing, storage planning.
Along with 'don't start by ripping out wires' already mentioned, I recommend you carefully consider whether you should rip out AC or heaters. These are expensive components to install later on, and you'll freeze or boil without them. Assuming you don't live in a perfect climate.
Make sure you understand your buses mechanical condition. Simple fixes now are much cheaper and less painful as a breakdown on a desert highway.
One of the first things I'd do is make sure the bus is absolutely watertight and leak-free. Roof, windows, seams. You'll need the certainty and comfort of an absolutely dry interior as you start to install expensive components inside.
Also, a major expense in time, labor and expense is insulation. Since it literally Read here by searching the forum for topics such as insulation, condensation, vapor barrier. A bus is a tin can, and although there are many ways to insulate it, and no One Right Way, learn from others what your options are. I'll also add that the more you clarify for yourself what your usage will be, the more prepared you will be to make those early decisions about insulation. Expensive now, but pay later in the heat and cold?
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06-24-2021, 01:15 PM
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#5
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 6
Year: 2009
Coachwork: BlueBird vision 21 passanger with 4 wheelchair and
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Tks Rucker, and life circumstances have determined the usage aspect. Ill be a full timer for the moment. Possibly in the future a weekend or week getaway. But for now the plan is parked a lot but in it full time. And i have spent 2 years thinking about doing this. I have a donor rv for all the systems ill need. Going to pickup bus in a couple of days. Im sure ill be on here asking questions in the future. Thanks to all for your input !! Dry
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06-24-2021, 01:22 PM
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#6
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 6
Year: 2009
Coachwork: BlueBird vision 21 passanger with 4 wheelchair and
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Have already decided to leave AC and Heat ! Try to leave the Bus systems intact as much as possable and just add the Other systems. That seems the most logical thing to do to me for the moment.
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06-24-2021, 05:03 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Howard
Have already decided to leave AC and Heat ! Try to leave the Bus systems intact as much as possable and just add the Other systems. That seems the most logical thing to do to me for the moment.
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It's worth considering that the AC and heat that come with a bus only work when the engine is running (with some expense and effort the existing heat can be made to work with a Webasto coolant heater), so they'll do you no good if you're parked most of the time.
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06-24-2021, 05:15 PM
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#8
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 6
Year: 2009
Coachwork: BlueBird vision 21 passanger with 4 wheelchair and
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Yes, i have a donor rv with all the systems intact including heat and air.use those when parked. And the bus systems when driving.
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06-25-2021, 06:17 AM
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#9
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 6
Year: 2009
Coachwork: BlueBird vision 21 passanger with 4 wheelchair and
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Picking up bus today. Guess what im looking for is a logical step by step to get me started from someone whose done it what are some mistakes did you make and how would you have done it different. Know i will make mistakes we are human after all but if anyone hase advice on geting this thing started would love to hear! Tks Ken!
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06-25-2021, 11:42 AM
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#10
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 784
Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
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If I were to convert again, I would do this.
1) Address all mechanical issues so the bus is running properly. This includes doing all fluid and filter changes. This way, even as you're doing the conversion, you can drive and enjoy the bus a bit.
2) Waterproof the roof and seal it, if you choose, add a coating to aide in insulation.
3) Strip the interior, clean it up, deal with any issues, seal it, prime it and paint it.
Now you have a good platform to work in and on.
4) I would detail what is underneath the bus, where the open spaces are to run lines, put things like tanks, generators, propane bottles, and very importantly, where you can drill holes to secure things and where you can't drill to avoid wrecking things.
5) Add the floor insulation, framing, panels and then transfer all the measurements from #4 to the floor so you know what you have to work with.
6) Design your layout.
7) Build. I would probably build more traditional stud walls, but use the narrow edge of the 2x4 board for the width of the wall. This should allow you to run wires and install insulation more easily.
I would probably not order appliances and such until I needed them, this way if it takes several months, years in my case, then you don't waste the warranty.
Hope this helps.
__________________
Steve
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06-25-2021, 12:36 PM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 1,075
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000, 40' MPV
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/B300 trans
Rated Cap: U/K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
If I were to convert again, I would do this.
1) Address all mechanical issues so the bus is running properly. This includes doing all fluid and filter changes. This way, even as you're doing the conversion, you can drive and enjoy the bus a bit.
Hope this helps.
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If more people just did this we'd get a lot less mayday calls from the middle of nowhere.
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