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Old 12-09-2017, 06:17 PM   #21
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:46 PM   #22
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AND those rolling stream pool hall signs.
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Old 12-10-2017, 03:29 AM   #23
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Portland, OR
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Year: 1999
Chassis: Ford Econoline e450
Got almost all the interior fiberglass and windows removed! I bought some Big Stretch sealant. The guy at my local hardware store said it was great as an adhesive and sealant, especially for buses since it doesn't harden, so it won't crack. Pretty sure almost all of my water damage is due to window leakage, and being in OR want to make sure it's sealed up tight!

Had to pull the AC down (extremely fun with one person, I need some friends ). You can see my "sturdy" bracing system..


One wall complete!


Trying to remove bolts from the door hinge. Idea #1:


Didn't work but then #2 and #3 worked great!



Was a bit of a stretch, luckily I have the reach!


Done for the night! I'm sure you'll all be happy to know that I upgraded from my trusty Hamm's for tonight..


Also tried a little timelapse thing tonight - Don't have the skills of Ian Robinson, metaspencer, or transcend existence, but thought it would be fun. Let me know if you like it and I'll try to do more!
MINI-SKOOLIE CONVERSION | e02 | Fiberglass Ceiling and Wall Removal
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Old 12-10-2017, 04:16 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
The black coating will be some kind of tar-based underseal. Without the steel vapor barrier, the wood needs protection.
My local hardware guy recommended this:


Reminds me of roofing mastic from that wonderful summer I did hot tar roofing..

Seems to me like you'd want something breathable so moisture doesn't get trapped against the wood, but I guess if you seal it well then no water will get trapped. Idk, maybe it's just me..
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:58 AM   #25
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You're making good progress. Not to many people taking their windows out this time of year.
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Old 01-17-2018, 11:53 PM   #26
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Portland, OR
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Year: 1999
Chassis: Ford Econoline e450
Back at it after a break for the holidays (and Oregon rain )!

It turns out the caulk I used for all the windows (Big Stretch) take 1-2 WEEKS to cure, so the 5 dry days I had wasn't quite enough. Most of the caulking ran out and I had to redo a lot, which I then covered with a tarp and it seems to be holding up nicely *fingers crossed*!

My buddy came over and helped me plane and sand down some pallet flats, slowly but surely getting through those! (check out the video below).


Ground off the metal bracings that the seats attached to, might be good for a roof rack or mounting solar, so into the keep pile they go!

Also put some Great Stuff into the bracings onto the floor to help insulate and cut off the excess. Might be overkill, but every little bit counts!




Got some lumber for the subfloor, ran into some more issues. My friend gave me some awesome 1" ISO from his roofing company, but they don't sell 1" board. Everything is planed down and the actual width is 3/4. So had the idea to go with 2x3's, and cut them down to 1" width. That way I get two 1x1.5 planks and only have to buy half the boards!

Genius right?

Well, it would have been, but they were out of tablesaws at the tool library, so I thought I would make due with a bandsaw. Not a good idea, broke the blade in 1 second. So back to the drawing board, figured I could rig up a jig with a board clamped on two sawhorses to give me a 1" cut. Worked mildly better, but I ran through two batteries after only two boards, so I guess I will have to wait for the right tool.

On a side note, battery powered circular saws are a waste of freaking time. I guess they could be handy for the odd job, but I was sincerely disappointed with the run time. Guess it's my fault for wanting to be mobile, I'll know better for the future..
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Old 01-17-2018, 11:54 PM   #27
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Portland, OR
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Year: 1999
Chassis: Ford Econoline e450
Any tips for laying subfloor? I'm going to use PL400 subfloor caulk and screws to hold the subfloor bracing down to the existing ply, and I'm most likely going to just wedge the ISO in-between. I considered using the PL300 Insulation caulk, but I figure it will be wedged in pretty tight and won't need it.

Also, should I bury any electric or propane in the floor? My thought was just to run it under the bus, or through the walls, but not sure.

Thanks again everyone for all the support, any ideas/hints are always appreciated!

Hoping to get the subfloor in this weekend, I'll be sure to take some better video, and I'm hoping to update more regularly!
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Old 01-18-2018, 12:58 AM   #28
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Join Date: Dec 2017
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Here's a little video I put together!

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Old 01-18-2018, 04:05 AM   #29
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Whoops! Wrong link!
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Old 01-25-2018, 01:47 AM   #30
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New bus conversion update!

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Old 01-25-2018, 10:21 AM   #31
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Nice progress! Your bus looks very similar to mine. I'll be keeping an eye on your build as it progresses. We are hoping to have ours road worthy by early spring.

For your windows... if you end up having trouble/leaks, next go around try Butyl tape. It comes in different widths and thicknesses. Easy to work with and works great. After we resealed our windows, we went around the upper edges with "through the roof" sealant.

Also used the roll on silicone based roof coating. 3 coats with 24 hours between coats. Come spring, it will probably get another coat. Works great.

Keep up the good work!
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Old 01-25-2018, 11:22 AM   #32
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Nice progress! Looks good, but what power tools where u using that lasted so short a time? I built a 12x20 deck and trimmed 4 trees with my Ryobi brushless 18v tools using 2 4ah batteries. May want to look at replacing your batteries if old(not holding charge) or if just a low amperage battery. Being set up to work mobile is HUGE for me.
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Old 03-28-2018, 09:16 PM   #33
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Flooring short bus

My short bus has just ply board under the rubber. Did you find your solution for insulation or replacing the plywood and putting metal underneath? I am kinda stuck on what to do?
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:07 PM   #34
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Location: Beaverton, OR
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Nice work! I'm embarking on the same journey, though my shuttle is in far worse cosmetic shape. I just discovered myself that the floor was straight ply over the metal frame and not sheet metal.

Can you go into a bit more detail on what problems/surprises you ran into replacing the floor completely?

I've been crawling around underneath quite a bit and I can see:
A. It's dirty as heck, I'm gonna need a full-face shield to keep from eating who-knows-what-crud.
B. There's a lot of underneath plumbing/wiring that's screwed into the underside of the plywood. That feels like it should be pretty straight forward.
C. The underframe is covered with (I hope) surface rust in parts. I figure I'll end up getting at it with the angle grinder and a whole lot of attachments to clean it off then re-paint as much as I can with Ospho and Rustoelum.



I'm in your neck of the woods as well - is that a Tri-Met bus?
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