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Old 05-26-2020, 02:11 PM   #41
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He says no, not pink or red
Is the oil IN the transmission RED? If not walk away.

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Old 05-26-2020, 02:25 PM   #42
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That rear engine Blue Bird almost certainly has a hydraulic driven cooling fan. Power steering uses the hydraulic system too. The oil reservoir is a big drum often mounted on the right hand side of the engine bay. Follow the suction line from the bottom of the reservoir to the pump on the engine, then from there to the small lines (about 1/2 inch outside diameter) that feed and return from the cooling fan. I don't recall if this system has an oil cooler in it too.. Anyway, follow all those hydraulic lines visually. Look for wet spots on them that could indicate an ongoing leak, look for new-looking lines going through a wet/dirty area that could indicate there was a big leak but somebody already repaired it, etc.
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Old 05-26-2020, 02:27 PM   #43
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Sorry, I apparently misunderstood him. It is pink.
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Old 05-26-2020, 02:29 PM   #44
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Sounds like you know what you are talking about. I think I can ask the seller to do that and report back.
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Old 05-26-2020, 02:39 PM   #45
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No idea where that mess came from but looks like it has migrated to where it lies.
I have the same looking mess on my Suburban from a bad power steering line leak. The whole engine compartment is saturated now, some areas look much like your pic, great rustproofing I reckon, lol.

Totally different engine but I think familywagon's post above might have the answer. Time to clean it and watch to see what is going on.
I guess you don't own it yet but this could be a point to dicker on with the seller. Don't pay what he is asking. Wave some form of lower cash in his face and take her home.


Best of luck folks,


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Old 05-26-2020, 03:03 PM   #46
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Thanks, really appreciate the feedback as I live by your motto there. My decision plot thickens...
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Old 05-26-2020, 03:30 PM   #47
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If it is only the tranny that looks like that I'd have the trans "steam cleaned" and then watch for fresh oil. Three leak sources come to mind: case gaskets or seals are leaking--no big deal. Torque converter seal at the pump is leaking--Trans has to come out to replace but still not a huge deal. There probably is some sort of inspection plate or cover which when removed would allow a pretty good view of a tc seal leak. Finally it is possible that the steel rings that keep the torque converter oil from draining down are worn (and causing an over full condition in the pan allowing oil to seep out around the shift linkage, spedo output port or even the breather tube). This condition would also require removing the tranny and probably end up with a rebuild or used trans before it was all over. In my experience, the leak down usually happens by a day or two of not running. A clue might be given after comparing oil levels on the dip stick when running and again after sitting a day or two and before start up.
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Old 05-26-2020, 03:45 PM   #48
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If it is only the tranny that looks like that I'd have the trans "steam cleaned" and then watch for fresh oil. Three leak sources come to mind: case gaskets or seals are leaking--no big deal. Torque converter seal at the pump is leaking--Trans has to come out to replace but still not a huge deal. There probably is some sort of inspection plate or cover which when removed would allow a pretty good view of a tc seal leak. Finally it is possible that the steel rings that keep the torque converter oil from draining down are worn (and causing an over full condition in the pan allowing oil to seep out around the shift linkage, spedo output port or even the breather tube). This condition would also require removing the tranny and probably end up with a rebuild or used trans before it was all over. In my experience, the leak down usually happens by a day or two of not running. A clue might be given after comparing oil levels on the dip stick when running and again after sitting a day or two and before start up.
Jack
Hmm thanks Jack. It is going to be hard for me to investigate this from across the country before purchasing, and if it turns out to be the third scenario it is going to have been a real waste of time... tough call
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Old 05-26-2020, 03:45 PM   #49
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Hmm thanks Jack. It is going to be hard for me to investigate this from across the country before purchasing, and if it turns out to be the third scenario it is going to have been a real waste of time... tough call
Not to mention money.
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Old 05-26-2020, 06:43 PM   #50
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Degreaser is cheap. Spray it down for the way home. Lots of that will run downwards and off hopefully. Depending on who drives it, they could tighten all the bolts you see in the pic of the tranny. It hasn't been touched in a while with a wrench. Do this before leaving where it is and then have it checked out on route. Hopefully it shifts fine and does the trip.
jack's idea is great too if available but may not be in the time frame you have. Pay attention to dipstick levels on the way too, Rad level worth keeping an eye on also on maiden voyage.

I would hire Cb to ferry it and then you will know when he gets back as much as he does. prolly could use a change and some cash.

I think you are getting a lot of bus otherwise.


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Old 05-26-2020, 06:53 PM   #51
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Degreaser is cheap. Spray it down for the way home. Lots of that will run downwards and off hopefully. Depending on who drives it, they could tighten all the bolts you see in the pic of the tranny. It hasn't been touched in a while with a wrench. Do this before leaving where it is and then have it checked out on route. Hopefully it shifts fine and does the trip.
jack's idea is great too if available but may not be in the time frame you have. Pay attention to dipstick levels on the way too, Rad level worth keeping an eye on also on maiden voyage.

I would hire Cb to ferry it and then you will know when he gets back as much as he does. prolly could use a change and some cash.

I think you are getting a lot of bus otherwise.


John

What do you mean by this "I would hire Cb to ferry it and then you will know when he gets back as much as he does." and "prolly could use a change and some cash."?

I am nervous about it being a major issue but at the same time maybe it's minor. My husband says we should snag it.
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Old 05-26-2020, 06:58 PM   #52
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I think he means me? lol I can't go to Utah.
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Old 05-26-2020, 07:07 PM   #53
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If the trans gaskets are cork or fiber tightening them probably would help. If they are reusable silicone gaskets that would be OK as well. However, if someone simply used a squeeze tube of silicone to make a gasket re-tightening will most definitely make things worse. The tub type silicone is easy to spot because it" shmoozes" out irregularly along the edges.

It is a great looking bus and I don't want to scare you off but rather to pose some diagnostic options to consider.

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Old 05-26-2020, 07:15 PM   #54
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I think he means me? lol I can't go to Utah.

You were my first pick CB to get that baby home for Mandinee


There are others though I would trust too. Please step forward!


Your husband is right Mandinee, everyone has first bus tales. You guys can pull this off!


I'd gladly do it but the border is closed not to mention the no fly list.



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Old 05-26-2020, 07:17 PM   #55
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Thanks everyone. CheeseWagon is transporting for me. Waiting for him to chime in his 2 cents!
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Old 05-26-2020, 07:18 PM   #56
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CB told me early on he's out of the transport loop these days!
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Old 05-26-2020, 07:42 PM   #57
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Sorry I'm late to the convo but circling back I think family_wagon might have hit it on the head. Since everything is oriented backwards in an RE, the only things I can think of that send fluids forward of the transmission is steering and the floor heaters. The floor heaters are circulating engine coolant so that's pretty easy to identify. I'm not sure so I'm deferring to family_wagon's first-hand experience that the steering uses a shared hydraulic fluid with the engine fan. The advise seems to be just clean it and watch for new signs of fluid but that's also an iffy situation in the midst of a coast-to-coast maiden voyage and I wouldn't want to find myself stranded when something fails catastrophically. I would recommend pressing the seller on this issue to confirm if some lines have indeed been recently replaced but perhaps the mess not cleaned up afterwards of if this is a potential red flag. I kinda wish I was somewhere nearby and could get eyes on it myself because I'm sure the last thing anyone wants if for you to lose your investment on the maiden voyage. We've seen it happen before on this forum and do try to offer as much constructive feedback one way or the other to help buyers make the best decision but this just seems like one of those things no one here can definitely say is safe or sorry.
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Old 05-26-2020, 09:12 PM   #58
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Sorry I'm late to the convo but circling back I think family_wagon might have hit it on the head. Since everything is oriented backwards in an RE, the only things I can think of that send fluids forward of the transmission is steering and the floor heaters. The floor heaters are circulating engine coolant so that's pretty easy to identify. I'm not sure so I'm deferring to family_wagon's first-hand experience that the steering uses a shared hydraulic fluid with the engine fan. The advise seems to be just clean it and watch for new signs of fluid but that's also an iffy situation in the midst of a coast-to-coast maiden voyage and I wouldn't want to find myself stranded when something fails catastrophically. I would recommend pressing the seller on this issue to confirm if some lines have indeed been recently replaced but perhaps the mess not cleaned up afterwards of if this is a potential red flag. I kinda wish I was somewhere nearby and could get eyes on it myself because I'm sure the last thing anyone wants if for you to lose your investment on the maiden voyage. We've seen it happen before on this forum and do try to offer as much constructive feedback one way or the other to help buyers make the best decision but this just seems like one of those things no one here can definitely say is safe or sorry.

Thank you. Everyone has so much great knowledge on this about which I know next to nothing. I am compiling all the suggestions and going to pass them on to the mechanic. The seller has agreed to take it to a shop for me (one where he has had his other bus worked on) and we will go from there.
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Old 05-26-2020, 10:45 PM   #59
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I want to add, I think my real biggest concern at this point is the transmission. The mechanic seemed unworried, but I kept pressing him- couldn't this really be a problem? He said he doesn't know what the fluid is, which he said was "all over" the trans, that he spent 10 years rebuilding transmissions and didn't recognize this at all, and yet there was no leak during his entire inspection.

I'm posting a pic if anyone has any input
Sorry, I'm a little late to the party here, couldn't find this pic in the post right away. I've not seen an Allison automatic up-close and personal before, but having seen a pic of the pan, this looks like the six-speed, at least, the pan looks right from what I can tell.

Let's take into account the symptoms (and lack thereof) here.

Inspecting mechanic states no visible leaks observed (I am assuming they checked with engine running / trans in gear), but states evidence of a leak with residue 'all over' the transmission. Transmission pan appears completely coated, but isn't dripping fluid, at least not at an obvious rate. Pan gasket leaks would drip straight down, or blow backward along the underbody – NOT straight up and over the transmission case.

Also, a leaking transmission pan gasket is likely to drip non-stop until the fluid level drops below the mating surfaces and gasket, whether the transmission is turning or not, so if the transmission is not dripping constantly or slipping due to low fluid, we can rule that out, I think. The transmission output shaft seal could be a possibility here, but I should think that would stand a fair chance of leaking while stationary. I also think residue from such a leak would have inconsistent coverage as well.

Having seen the pic (Angle isn't the best but gives an idea), taking into account that an RE's inverted setup would put the trans pan rearward of the differential, I would say this kind of looks like a differential pinion or possible transmission output shaft seal leaking and blowing back under (and over) the transmission.

Such leaks would not be likely to be evident unless driving, as the differential is under no pressure until moving. However, I'm not sure how likely the transmission is to lose fluid unless it is in gear, and the output shaft might not even leak then unless it starts moving.

But quite simply, a transmission leak is not likely to coat the entire unit, while anything leaking ahead of it is, in this case, the differential. And the pinion input shaft seal is in a good position to blow gear oil over both the engine and the transmission, coating them completely.

And, is not likely to leak when stationary. Combined with the inspecting mechanic's statements of the mess being all over the transmission, and that they observed no visible leak with it running, I would have to lean toward the pinion input seal on the differential leaking, MAYBE the transmission output shaft seal. However, the residue kind of looks like gear oil to me, which would also indicate the pinion input shaft seal.

Whatever it is, it appears to have been leaking for awhile, maybe years. Source of the leak could have already been repaired with no clean-up done after the fact, as a DIYer might not clean the trans pan off after replacing a pinion seal, but I wouldn't bet on it without evidence of a new seal in that area. I wouldn't rule out power steering or transmission fluid / oil cooler lines or fittings, as they could still have slow leaks that might not be obvious. But what I see, at least in my mind, points to the pinion input shaft seal leaking.

Normally, I wouldn't say a pinion seal would be a huge concern if it's a small leak, but there's no way to tell, given the age of the bus (I'm under the impression this is an '03 model?). It depends on how much fluid is leaking. If it's a severe leak that requires topping off the gear oil / fluid frequently, then it needs to be repaired. If not, then it can wait, I suppose. But you never know when an existing leak can get worse, either.

On the surface, it appears to be a small leak that's been there a long time, which would beg the question of how much fluid is in the trans and / or differential. Have they been running low for awhile as a result? A differential has to get pretty low on oil to really damage it, however. I would have the levels checked, as well as for evidence the pinion input seal or transmission output seal is leaking.

If the fluid level isn't that low, and the leak isn't severe, might be able to just put a new seal in it, clean things up, and have at it. And then again, the bus might well make it the entire 1,650-mile trip to its destination without an issue. But given the cost of towing, I think I'd rather fix it before it gets worse, and causes a bigger problem.

I hate to encourage someone to spend more money on a contingency, but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure -- and given that towing a bus is $100 hookup and $10 / mile, BEFORE you spend $1000 repairing or replacing a differential... Especially when this could be used to negotiate the price to offset the cost of repair.

That being said, a pinion seal by itself requires removing the axle shafts, draining the center section of oil, and removing the pinion before the seal can be replaced. In some rare instances, the seal could have worn a groove into the pinion shaft, causing the leak, in which case the shaft might require replacement, or perhaps an upgraded thicker seal to make up the difference could be used, if such a seal is available.

A transmission output shaft seal may or may not require partial disassembly of the transmission. While I'm not totally familiar with servicing Allison units, output shaft seal replacement might be possible without disassembling the transmission, but I can't say for sure from the pics I have seen.

Something that could help in distinguishing where the leak is coming from is to look at the driveshaft, if this bus has one. If there's residue on the driveshaft, that points to the differential pinion seal. If it's dry, then that would point to the transmission output shaft seal.

If there is no driveshaft and the mechanical connection between the trans and differential is nothing more than U-joints, look closely at the area in which they join. Fluid on the entire connection would indicate the pinion seal, fluid on only one side or not at all would indicate the transmission output seal.

Couple other things to check would be the fill /drain plugs for the differential -- if they are loose, the differential could be pushing fluid around the threads. Not likely, but possible.

Also, if the differential assembly has a vent port or tube of some sort, the differential could have been overfilled at some point (still overfilled, perhaps?) and have been spitting gear oil all over through the vent until the level dropped sufficiently. An automatic trans will generally have a similar vent system for the same purpose, and neither would be likely to manifest themselves when stationary.

I've read the OP has persuaded the seller to have a shop look at it. If I'm right about the source of the leak (it would make sense), perhaps they could use this issue to negotiate the price. But I would hardly call it a deal-breaker just yet.

I don't know what the cost of repairing such an issue would be, but I would say it could be pricey -- $1000 maybe? Especially if both seals I mentioned are leaking. Could be a good opportunity to get the sixth gear unlocked while they're at it though, as well as set any speed limiter / governor to a speed of your choosing. And such a leak could be used as leverage to bring the price down -- $1000-$1500 to offset the repair, maybe?

My advice to the OP, if one or both of these seals are leaking, and you can buy the bus for $1500-2500 with the leak and have it repaired for $1000-$1500, it might still be a good buy, if all other systems are good to go. Depends on the scope of the rust I've seen in the pics. If it's just wheel wells, that can be managed. Just my $0.02.
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:18 AM   #60
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Found out through a little more research that I misspoke here....
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That being said, a pinion seal by itself requires removing the axle shafts, draining the center section of oil, and removing the pinion before the seal can be replaced. In some rare instances, the seal could have worn a groove into the pinion shaft, causing the leak, in which case the shaft might require replacement, or perhaps an upgraded thicker seal to make up the difference could be used, if such a seal is available.
After some more research, it appears that replacing the pinion seal on these differentials may not be as involved as I thought. Apparently, at least on many, the pinion gear shaft and its yoke are apparently two separate parts, made to fit to each other with spline teeth.

Not having serviced differentials, I was under the impression that the yoke and pinion were a single unit and that the entire center member had to be removed to replace this seal, but apparently that isn't so. So it may not be as big a deal to replace as I thought. Too bad I didn't discover this in time to edit my previous post... Oh, well.

Gives points to this bus, though. And I'm fairly confident I am right about the source of this leak.
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