Skip of fools

[Skipoffools]

Despite the advice I'm going a different route. Wood is what I know best. Many difficulties still to reveal themselves as I attempt to combine wood and metal studs, but hey I am almost there. Just need to find a drivers window.

[Skipoffools]

I'm going to seal and paint the floor before I lay the bottom 2x6 plate for the back wall framing, so that I know I will have a good seal at such a vulnerable area.

The plan is 3M 550 seam sealer and tin roofing felt caps for the holes. Then a coat of rust oleum Rust Reformer (mostly as a preventative, as you can see not much rust!) and a top coat or two of rust oleum professional oil based. But before I begin...

Anyone have any suggestions on removing the adhesive residue left from the rubber floor? Or how many of you just leave it, if so would it have an effect on the adhesion of the RR and paint?

[cadillackid]

thats pretty cool using wood sides like that... maybe plate the corners to help keep the shifting down?

remember any sliding driver window you buy. (ie a house window or RV window)... you want the outer sash in front.. and the inner sash toward the back.. .. any sliders in the bus should be that way otherwise in a rainstorm you'll bring in a lot of water

-Christopher

[chev49]

Since you are using wood, why not ash can the metal roof and make a flat roof so there is NO curved surfaces inside .... then cabinets, etc., will just fit without shaping the curve. If I do another bus for myself (have converted 4 of my own) I am going to make the roof flat like my box truck. I am tired of making 27 curved pieces and fitting...
I have also built two wooden travel trailers in Oregon. The wood will last a very long time if you properly seal and maintain it. I finally gave the last wooden trailer to my sister in Springfield, after over 20 yrs old, for her to go camping in.

[Skipoffools]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

thats pretty cool using wood sides like that... maybe plate the corners to help keep the shifting down?

remember any sliding driver window you buy. (ie a house window or RV window)... you want the outer sash in front.. and the inner sash toward the back.. .. any sliders in the bus should be that way otherwise in a rainstorm you'll bring in a lot of water

-Christopher

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by plate the corners.

I think I'm going to use a double pane sliding vinyl house window. But thanks for the advice if I can find a horizontal slider like I want, I will definitely take your advice and make sure outer sash is stern side

[Skipoffools]

Originally Posted by chev49

Since you are using wood, why not ash can the metal roof and make a flat roof so there is NO curved surfaces inside .... then cabinets, etc., will just fit without shaping the curve. If I do another bus for myself (have converted 4 of my own) I am going to make the roof flat like my box truck. I am tired of making 27 curved pieces and fitting...
I have also built two wooden travel trailers in Oregon. The wood will last a very long time if you properly seal and maintain it. I finally gave the last wooden trailer to my sister in Springfield, after over 20 yrs old, for her to go camping in.

Ehh yeah well it's too late now, haha. I want to keep the bus look anyways. I planned on putting cabinets up to my wood framing and just leave the top curved area a shelf.

Wow, 20 years that's inspiring, what kind of treatment do you suggest? I was recommended by my uncle linseed oil, mineral spirits, and something else (I can remember) at a ratio of 1:1:1

[Skipoffools]

I actually did think about building pitched roof with roofing metal on top just like a house, but I would be weary of a flat roof. Just look at almost every RV with a flat roof after about 20 years.

[Skipoffools]

I finished cutting off the back wall, removed floor adhesive with this



Then I OSHPOed the floor and wire brushed to remove remaining white stuff. Next I will seal holes and seams with seam sealer. And I will be ready for primer!

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Skipoffools

Despite the advice I'm going a different route. Wood is what I know best.

Interesting using the wood framing.

What's going on here with the first window; 2 long windows above and below? # Two spot looks like normal framing for a large window.

[Rusty]

I think he means shear bracing to prevent racking. It will be moving...

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Rusty

I think he means shear bracing to prevent racking. It will be moving...

Attachment 15054

He might be but I'm not. He's got header framing (sort of) with a window above and a window below.

[Skipoffools]

Originally Posted by Rusty

I think he means shear bracing to prevent racking. It will be moving...

Attachment 15054

That looks like a great idea!

[Skipoffools]

I was told by a carpenter that I don't need a header because it's not a load bearing wall due to the ribs. But I will be welding 1" square tube steel to the roof ribs right above all windows where I I had to cut upright ribs, to act as headers. And those two windows are for bunk beds.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Skipoffools

And those two windows are for bunk beds.

Ah. My kids ain't going. The younger will be 21 this year.

[Skipoffools]

we have a 3 year old and a 1 1/2 year old. So we're stuck with em for a while hah just kidding. Kids are awesome.

[Skipoffools]

Originally Posted by Skipoffools

I was told by a carpenter that I don't need a header because it's not a load bearing wall due to the ribs. But I will be welding 1" square tube steel to the roof ribs right above all windows where I I had to cut upright ribs, to act as headers. And those two windows are for bunk beds.

And by a carpenter I mean the bus of course!

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Skipoffools

we have a 3 year old and a 1 1/2 year old. So we're stuck with em for a while hah just kidding. Kids are awesome.

I got an offer for 50 cents per lb on the hoof for mine when they were that age. I got greedy and held out for a dollar a pound. Don't make the same mistake; sell them while they're cute!!