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05-07-2018, 10:29 PM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 122
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: not sure
Engine: Catepillar 3126B not Cummins
Rated Cap: not sure
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What to do about wheelchair tracks
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05-07-2018, 10:51 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Damascus, OR
Posts: 681
Year: 2004
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e w/ 2000 Allison Trans
Rated Cap: 35
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2 person job. one under the bus holding the nut, the other inside unscrewing. 1/2 socket or wrench underneath (I believe) and I think a 3/16" allen bit on an impact driver in the inside. That is what got me through. it also helped to wrench it free from the underneath before unscrewing with the allen bit.
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05-07-2018, 10:58 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Montana
Posts: 581
Year: 2000
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Just seeing those makes me shiver! I had to get help to hold the Alan key inside the bus while I tried unbolting those rails - which seemed to be bolted every 3 inches. I was able to get most of them - and only had to grind off a handful. It just took a long time.
You can put the seat belt piece into the floor to stop the Alan key from turning - and unbolt them - but that's going to take a lot longer.
I did think about leaving them (I left the ones on the walls) - but I knew I wasn't going to be using them - so pulled them out. And so far - I have not regretted it!
Good luck!
__________________
- Roger (Dog.Rescuer)
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05-07-2018, 11:23 PM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 122
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: not sure
Engine: Catepillar 3126B not Cummins
Rated Cap: not sure
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I was so hoping you wouldn't tell me about going underneath the bus. Remember it's just me, myself and I with messed up knees. Does anyone know a guy named Steampunk Steve? He drilled through the screws. Someone else suggested using a hole saw that's small enough to fit into the opening, but big enough that it'll totally encapsulate the screw and cut around it. Just pick up the track and cut the screws with a grinder. Yes, I know I'll be on my knees, but not consistently and I'll be in the bus and not under. The issue is all my tools are battery operated. I've got an impact drill which has torque but will it be enough. And can those suggestions work at all?
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05-08-2018, 10:31 AM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: League City, Texas
Posts: 221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skytz
I was so hoping you wouldn't tell me about going underneath the bus. Remember it's just me, myself and I with messed up knees. Does anyone know a guy named Steampunk Steve? He drilled through the screws. Someone else suggested using a hole saw that's small enough to fit into the opening, but big enough that it'll totally encapsulate the screw and cut around it. Just pick up the track and cut the screws with a grinder. Yes, I know I'll be on my knees, but not consistently and I'll be in the bus and not under. The issue is all my tools are battery operated. I've got an impact drill which has torque but will it be enough. And can those suggestions work at all?
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I watched his build videos, he is one of the ones that gave me the idea of wanting to do a skoolie...
Building a Skoolie solo is possible, but it WILL be harder than if you had help...
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05-08-2018, 02:59 PM
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#6
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Flagstaff AZ
Posts: 149
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Vista 36pp
Engine: 7.3 L diesel
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We just got done getting the L tracks out of our bus. It took three weeks and about two hours a night worth of work I would say. I was under the bus cranking the 7/16 bolts with an impact wrench in my wife was holding the top with an allen wrench. A lot of them stripped and that had to be dealt with which really sucked but I found that soaking every single bolt in PB blast and then coming back to it soaking it again and then a day later trying to take them out works the best. I read on a few threads on this forum to angle grinder them out. Ours were aluminum and I think most are. So if you have aluminum L Tracks as far as I can tell it's very unsafe to angle grind aluminum and would be a bad solution.
I know this might not help you because you were looking for a solution with just one person. I can say that I did drill through a few of the bolts that we could not get you from the bottom and it was very time-consuming and I went through a few drill bits but it was an option.
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05-08-2018, 04:43 PM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 122
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: not sure
Engine: Catepillar 3126B not Cummins
Rated Cap: not sure
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Thanks for the input so far. So drilling might be out, not sure yet if it is. Tool wise I have a 20 volt impact drill that might have umph. Any feedback on the hole saw?
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05-08-2018, 04:46 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 122
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: not sure
Engine: Catepillar 3126B not Cummins
Rated Cap: not sure
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Royobay,
I'll trade bus with you. Cause you've got one that's wheel well free.
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05-08-2018, 04:53 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Thankfully, my WC mounts were just plates bolted to the floor like seats would be.
That L-track looks formidable.
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05-08-2018, 05:09 PM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 122
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: not sure
Engine: Catepillar 3126B not Cummins
Rated Cap: not sure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Thankfully, my WC mounts were just plates bolted to the floor like seats would be.
That L-track looks formidable.
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No kidding. I've been doing this all on my own to keep the overhead as low as possible, until I need to bring in those who know what I don't know.
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05-08-2018, 05:19 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fayetteville Arkansas
Posts: 419
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: GMC G3500 Vandura
Engine: V-8 5.7L Gas
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Seriously just leave it there. It's not worth your time and effort and isn't in the way. Your insullation will work perfectly on top of it.
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05-08-2018, 06:50 PM
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#12
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Frisco, Texas
Posts: 829
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 71
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I was searching for something and stumbled across this. Roach711 had the channel in his too. maybe he has some pics or posts that might help
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/in...ank-15629.html
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05-08-2018, 09:45 PM
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#13
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 122
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: not sure
Engine: Catepillar 3126B not Cummins
Rated Cap: not sure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas1985
Seriously just leave it there. It's not worth your time and effort and isn't in the way. Your insullation will work perfectly on top of it.
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There's a problem with that scenario. I have a couple areas that have serious rust issues, which can't be resolved because the tracks are in the way. In one section, it's basically a straight line from one side to the other side of the bus.
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05-08-2018, 09:47 PM
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#14
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 122
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: not sure
Engine: Catepillar 3126B not Cummins
Rated Cap: not sure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjhwick119
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Thank you.
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