2002 E450 Quigley Shuttle?

[cadillackid]

I know the ECM;S are different from Navistar to ford.. but i know on my 444E that the book states the starter needs to reach 160 RPM after the battery has been low or ECM reset.. if for some reason the ECM battery lead or Battery fuse has gone bad its conceivable the ECM is resetting each time you attempt a start... (usually you'll get a check engine light for a blown ECM bat circuit).. the ford is OBD-II so you can put a fairly low-cost code scanner on it to see if there are any stored codes in the ECM.



alpine is right about the HPOP needing to be full to fire the injectors.. the only thing about this is that when its plugged in it started immediately which kind of indicates the HPOP and sensors are staying in spec at ;least when the engine is warm and probably all the time.. if there is voltage headed towrd the glow plugs, i'd be inclined to code-scan it. (not sure if there is key sequence scanning? you can likely google F250 or F350 7.3 code ascanning) to see if there is onboard ability to look for error codes set..



-Christopher

[alpine44]

Unfortunately, the Ford ECU does not have a mode to display trouble codes on the gauge cluster. This is a really convenient feature on the International trucks.

On the positive side, the Ford ECU can be tuned easily with aftermarket devices.

[Luminous Moose]

Hey everyone, thanks for all the advice! Here's an update:
We ended up getting an injector shim kit on eBay and that seemed to have solved the problem. It was pretty straight forward but a pain to do, lots of small screws in tight spaces. We weren't able to shim the #1 injector though because we couldn't get the armature plate off. We also did a modification where we drilled small holes in the solenoid spacers to let oil drain out in all the injectors also. We're waiting on a voltage regulator, we have a Penntex alternator and an external regulator so I haven't been able to drive it yet but it has started twice in temps in the 20's without being plugged in, started right away too. I also rebuilt the IPR while I was in there. On the minus side... I busted off the clip to the EBPV so we're now getting a check engine light, and I took the alternator off to have it bench tested and to try to get better access to #1 injector and in the cold after all the work, I put it back together with the wrong wiring and ruined a battery. So I haven't run it yet, just started and idled. Thanks!

[Luminous Moose]

Fixed a few things! The voltage regulator was bad. We have a Penn-Tex alternator and separate voltage regulator, $190. Had a problem with the heater controls, originally it wasn't blowing at all, replaced the blower and it was only blowing out defrost at half speed. Checked the vacuum line at the pump and no vacuum, replaced the vacuum pump. Ok now we have vacuum at the pump but no vacuum inside. Taped a new vacuum line to the old one and pulled it through the firewall and reconnected it, controls now worked but blowing half speed still. Popped the dash insert off and replaced the blower switch, the old one was melted!
We've turned the corner, she now starts unassisted in the cold, runs and drives well, charges, and blows heat out of the right vent!