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Old 09-14-2020, 07:54 PM   #1
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Are split washers good enough? No loctite.

So I added loctite to all of the bolts I used to attach my bigfoot levelers.
Then it occurred to me that I had misjudged the placement of the loctite on the threads.
There for I believe that many of the nuts didn't touch the loctite at all.
We do however have lock/split washers on every nut.
I thought about taking them all off, or atleast what will come off and adding loctite.
The problem is that it was a complete mother to get them on in the first place because you have to be a damn contortionist just to get in there and I put my last bit of effort into every one of 24 bolts. 8 more to go.
I was hoping that someone could ease my mind a bit and say that it should be all good.
And maybe I just visit this bolts every so often to make sure they're all still snug.
Yes, kind of a funny facepalm, but stuff happens,😊
Thx.

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Old 09-14-2020, 08:50 PM   #2
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should be fine...maybe double check a few after they've been exposed to the vibrations of a road trip. Also, unless they are stainless, a little surface rust will insure that they stay nice anf tight.
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Old 09-14-2020, 11:14 PM   #3
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Thanks a bunch.
Maybe I'll be able to get some sleep tonight. ��
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Old 09-15-2020, 07:29 AM   #4
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If you tighten them to the correct torque spec with a torque wrench they should be fine.

Ted
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Old 09-15-2020, 08:53 AM   #5
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Check them for tightness periodically, but they'll likely be fine. Loctite says you only need a drop inside the nut. So seeing how most people coat the whole thread on a bolt, I'd say you have enough on there. And then add the split washer too and I wouldn't worry.
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Old 09-15-2020, 10:50 AM   #6
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Split washers are generally ineffective as a nut locking method with steel-to-steel applications.
https://engineerdog.com/2015/01/11/1...out-fasteners/
https://www.reddit.com/r/AskEngineer...shers_useless/
etc...


However, as long as the nuts are correctly torqued (https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...ed-Torque.aspx) I wouldn't be concerned about having split washer or thread locker. As mentioned, corrosion will lock them over time
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Old 09-15-2020, 11:02 AM   #7
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Thank you everyone.
Not an A+ rating, but I'm feeling much better now.
I really appreciate all of your feedback.
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Old 09-17-2020, 09:15 PM   #8
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If you want to add loctite,without disassembly (but still have access to the threads) look into loctite green. It is a wicking formula meant for "preassembled fasteners".
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Old 09-17-2020, 09:24 PM   #9
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loctite green.
Sounds interesting.
Thank you very much.
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Old 09-18-2020, 07:36 AM   #10
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It's loctite 290 for the wicking compound.

Loctite doesn't go off colors, only permatex does. With loctite, you have to use the numbers because they make several different versions that will be the same color. For instance loctite 620 is green and we use it in the shop to hold injector cups in cylinder heads.
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Old 09-18-2020, 11:21 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
It's loctite 290 for the wicking compound.

Loctite doesn't go off colors, only permatex does. With loctite, you have to use the numbers because they make several different versions that will be the same color. For instance loctite 620 is green and we use it in the shop to hold injector cups in cylinder heads.
Not true, the colors are easy distinguishers.
Attached Thumbnails
The Difference Between Red, Blue, Green and Purple Threadlockers.jpg  
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Old 09-18-2020, 12:23 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Not true, the colors are easy distinguishers.
Did you even read my post?

No? I figured.......

If anyone reads this and wants to actually know what they're talking about, loctite makes more glues, sealers, threadlockers, liquid metals and retaining compounds then you would ever care to know that they make. Many more varieties then colors in a standard color wheel, so to go in a store and say that you need green loctite might get you a variety of different things.

For instance, I have 3 loctite products that are green on the shelf, none of them are the self wicking thread locker.

However, if you specify that you need loctite 290, you'll get the self-wicking threadlocker that you're looking for.
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Old 09-19-2020, 09:56 AM   #13
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Good info Booyah45828!
Thank you very much for the clarification.
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Old 09-20-2020, 09:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
It's loctite 290 for the wicking compound.

Loctite doesn't go off colors, only permatex does. With loctite, you have to use the numbers because they make several different versions that will be the same color. For instance loctite 620 is green and we use it in the shop to hold injector cups in cylinder heads.
I learned something new today.

I have always heard it referred to as "green" and that has just been reinforced by the limited selection of loctite at places I have shopped for it means I haven't been made aware the other greens.
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Old 09-26-2020, 09:25 AM   #15
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Self locking nuts

You should used self locking plastic back nuts there is no need for any locking washer or Loctite
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Old 02-25-2023, 04:41 PM   #16
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hi all.
would like to bring this thread back to life.
lock nut verses lock washers verses jamb nuts.
i have used all of them.
and i know loc tite very well.
and then well nuts verse rivnuts
want to start a debate on what yall have done to give me guidance.
my wife did not want her ceiling dropped in her short bus so the first is anchoring strut to the roof for solar and second is the fastening the unistrut bracketry together.
have angle brackets for everything.
normally just do jamb nuts for military construction.
nyloq nuts and lock washers or one or the other? with or without locktite.
or jamb nuts?
plenty of stuff for me for strut accessories because i use strut systems for a living.
that x- ray machine over your head is held up by uni-strut and jam nuts.
would like to debate the fastener methods and for me more important is the well nut verses the rivnut
dont worry about hurting my feelings i only have them for a very select few.
yes i did the search feature.
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Old 02-25-2023, 05:58 PM   #17
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I've worked for 3 different wind turbine manufacturers and spent a lot time with engineers who knew a lot more than I ever will. They explained that we didn't use split lock washers because once they were flattened out, they did little to prevent a fastener from loosening...and that if you torqued to the specs of the bolt, the lock washer would open up.

Instead, we used Nord-Lock two-piece locking washers and those things are damned amazing. I had to swap a bunch of wind turbine alternators (some while still on the 160-foot towers) and the hardest part of the process was backing out the big alternator mounting bolts with the Nord-Locks. They way they're made, the act of backing out the bolts causes the two pieces to rotate and climb the little interlocking wedges...so it actually gets harder to turn them, initially. Thank goodness I had a torque multiplier to use...
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Old 02-25-2023, 06:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossvtaylor View Post
we didn't use split lock washers because once they were flattened out, they did little to prevent a fastener from loosening.
Split lock washers really don't make any sense. Their rationale is that they're springs and the upward force on the bolt they provide produces friction that prevents the bolt from turning. But: that is exactly how bolts work on their own, with the torque producing a far larger upward force on the bolt (and correspondingly far larger frictional force) than anything you get from that weak little spring slightly compressed.
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Old 02-26-2023, 02:00 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Split lock washers really don't make any sense. Their rationale is that they're springs and the upward force on the bolt they provide produces friction that prevents the bolt from turning. But: that is exactly how bolts work on their own, with the torque producing a far larger upward force on the bolt (and correspondingly far larger frictional force) than anything you get from that weak little spring slightly compressed.
Exactly. For something that must NEVER loosen in use, I use NyLok nuts and regular nuts (not jam nuts) threaded tightly together; I used this combination for my bus's four underfloor tanks that hang on 1/2" threaded rod. So far, so good.

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Old 02-26-2023, 05:29 PM   #20
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already new the issues with split washers and never use them.
have questioned lock nuts a few times.
my jam nut nut process was always two of the same nuts first nut torqued to spec and the second back it up torqued to where the flats were mismatched.
i have not had a chance to look at ross's idea/experience.
but lets play again?
well nuts verse riv nuts for blind holes.
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