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Old 06-16-2015, 06:00 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
I shouldn't but.. oh.. here you go. The DIY bedliner kits can cause complications; proceed with caution. It gets everywhere you never thought it would. How Do I Get Herculiner Off of My Hootus?! - Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"®

BAAAAHAAAHAHAAAAAAHAAAAAA!

That was great! Thanks

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Old 06-16-2015, 06:30 AM   #82
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tomball, TX
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Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
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Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD View Post
It sounds like you're wanting to seal any leaks on the outside to keep water from getting in. I hope you find something that works.

Here is something that you may consider using down the road when and if you ever consider doing major reconstruction on the inside. They sell both an insulating spray on and also a sound deadener that sprays on. It has great reviews. They are also right here in Houston. Good luck with your build.
Spray-On Insulation - Automotive Insulation Coatings | LizardSkin
That looks interesting. Probably pretty expensive.

I've noticed a lot of people in the Houston area on here. You work for HPD? So does my brother-in-law.
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:37 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Agreed.

Think about this Austin.. So you have a leak. Water is getting into the walls, floors and roof, rusting out the bus. And you're thinking you want to allow the rotting to continue and build a waterproof bubble inside the bus?
Ok.. so you do that. You could build an encapsulated, waterproof capsule inside the bus. What's happening to that leak? It just keeps letting water in and rotting your bus away. Not only that, but this waterproof capsule will probably end up accelerating the rot by keeping the moisture trapped up against the steel.
In a couple years your waterproof capsule is lying out in the open on top of a pile of iron oxide with some wheels and windshield glass lying around.
Ok, that last statement is a slight exaggeration, but why would you put any work into the bus interior if you're just letting the structure rot? Maybe if you were disposing of it next year..
Sealing it from the inside isn't sealing at all. Sealing is done from the outside. Water coming through the roof of your house? You don't "seal" the ceiling drywall with some bedliner, you fix the leak in the roof.
I was trying to think of something to do to make sure water stays out this summer/fall/winter before I can put time into the exterior work next spring. I think my biggest return on effort would be to seal all the windows and fix the hole in the emergency exit door. I may have to gut it (or work around whatever is in it) in the spring when I work on the exterior. With that in mind, I may wait to insulate until the spring as well.
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:38 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by dredman View Post
You roll the condom on the outside too, even when bedliner might look and feel cool on the inside
I don't use condoms. See the earlier post about the nut cancer/uniballin.
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Old 06-16-2015, 06:39 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
I shouldn't but.. oh.. here you go. The DIY bedliner kits can cause complications; proceed with caution. It gets everywhere you never thought it would. How Do I Get Herculiner Off of My Hootus?! - Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"®
How does that even happen? And I suppose the method of removing herculiner is similar to the method of removing superglue. See also: American Pie 2.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:33 AM   #86
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Year: 1988
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Ok so could you use Lizard Skin on the outside roof area or is there something better that could be sprayed or rolled on over the paint to seal the roof?
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:44 PM   #89
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Henry Solarflex 287 SF


^ That's what I used
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:06 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by austin1989us View Post
That looks interesting. Probably pretty expensive.

I've noticed a lot of people in the Houston area on here. You work for HPD? So does my brother-in-law.
I'm not sure of the cost, might be worth checking out with a phone call. I'm retired HPD after 20 years. Used to fly helicopters for them. If you ever need help (free labor) let me know. I'm hoping to get one soon and am dying to learn everything about the process.
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:14 PM   #91
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Gardner 5-Gal. Sta-Kool 770 Cool Roof Elastomeric Coating-SK-7705 - The Home Depot

Went out & bought 6 gallons today, going to paint the roof before mounting the Awning I bought yesterday

P.S. Went with the 10 yr instead of the 7 yr
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:34 PM   #92
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Year: 1997
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Engine: T444E w/ MT643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
Go back to my first post and rear the two build threads I linked. Both have a ton of detailed pics.

That's because we run our studs horizontal, not vertical.

We call it strapping.

Far stronger, better system in every way.

The method you use will depend on skill, money, tools, and How long you want the bus to last.
I need my bus to last 30 to 40 years. Not removing the inside skin, rotted fiberglass insulation, rustproofing, ect will result in a bus that may only last 3 to 5 years.

Also many of these low buck, slapped togeather builds are the reason why most insurance companys will no longer insure skoolie conversions.

So folks, choose your method and live with it.

Nat
I zoomed in on the pics but don't see DETAIL on exactly what you used for hardware. I want to go horizontal like you are. I also am interested in trying to fill my ribs with spray foam. I just saw a mention of that, not a how to. Mine aren't cut open anywhere unless they are at the bottom underneath? They have holes the size of a straw from a can of CLOSED CELL spray foam - QUAD Foam. I have no idea if that would work or if it DID work if it would provide benefit anywhere near the cost. I am spray foaming the interior with Tiger foam next week hopefully but I need to get my strapping in first!
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