Bidding on "non running bus"

[dpeterson3]

I am looking at bidding on a bus. It has everything I have been looking for. DT466 per-emissions, 6 windows, factor AC, dog-nose, air brakes, and only 2 hours from home. Now for the problem. The description says "WORKING CONDITION UNKNOWN", then in response to a question, it says "NOT RUNNING. MILEAGE UNKNOWN". Based on the answer to some other questions, I think the listing party hasn't tested or barely tested the vehicle and is not willing to do any troubleshooting. In other words, I think it may be listed as not working because no one tried. I am going to call this week and see if I can speak with someone who has worked on the bus and see what their assessment is.

Opinions on how hard I should go after it? I do have some mechanical skills and electrical skills and am no stranger to tearing down a motor in a parking lot. Likelihood I could get it running enough to get home assuming it wasn't used as a parts bus.

[dbsoundman]

Could be dead batteries, could need a rebuild. I would definitely bid carefully and ask as many questions as they will answer.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by dpeterson3

I am looking at bidding on a bus. It has everything I have been looking for. DT466 per-emissions, 6 windows, factor AC, dog-nose, air brakes, and only 2 hours from home. Now for the problem. The description says "WORKING CONDITION UNKNOWN", then in response to a question, it says "NOT RUNNING. MILEAGE UNKNOWN". Based on the answer to some other questions, I think the listing party hasn't tested or barely tested the vehicle and is not willing to do any troubleshooting. In other words, I think it may be listed as not working because no one tried. I am going to call this week and see if I can speak with someone who has worked on the bus and see what their assessment is.

Opinions on how hard I should go after it? I do have some mechanical skills and electrical skills and am no stranger to tearing down a motor in a parking lot. Likelihood I could get it running enough to get home assuming it wasn't used as a parts bus.

I purchased a non running bus with a dt466, non running because it had overheated and had “ milkshake” oil! The auction ad did not mention this at all, it just said non -runner !
I originally only wanted it for the parts but once I got it the body was too clean to cut up and destroy!

It cost me right around 6 grand in parts alone for the inframe.

Point is, don’t make any assumptions on why you think it is being sold as a non runner.
Either do an inspection first or commit to a seriously LOW price on the unit if you’re not gonna inspect it.

I paid $500 bucks for mine but now with a new motor it is worth 10 x that !

[sportyrick]

See if you can find a mechanic that will drag some batteries along and try and get it running for a diagnosis. Could save a ton of money in the long run, ya it may just need batteries and a little priming but??????

[dbsoundman]

Originally Posted by sportyrick

See if you can find a mechanic that will drag some batteries along and try and get it running for a diagnosis. Could save a ton of money in the long run, ya it may just need batteries and a little priming but??????

I totally agree, even bringing one battery to supply enough juice to do a key on engine off test would let you know if there's any obvious or stored codes.

[cadillackid]

the only way I have bought non running vehicles is where I could inspect them in person and do some investigation first hand...


I once bought a car that was listed as "engine locked up".. the seller had put in new fuses, 2 different new batteries, new battery cables, a starter, an ignition key switch and an alternator.. and it "still no crank so it must be locked up"...



when I inspected it.. I crawled under the dash and found there had been a hotwire attempt on it where a couple wires from the actual ignition switch had been cut...


I paid the man the CHEAP price, got the title... came back when he was at work.. twisted the wires together with wire nuts and drove the car home..

[Ronnie]

Only two hours away I would go look at it.



Just a note most auction places will allow you to install batteries, add fuel, little stuff. But not tear down an engine in the parking lot. So figure cost of towing if you can not easily get it running.

[Omnibot2000]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

Only two hours away I would go look at it.



Just a note most auction places will allow you to install batteries, add fuel, little stuff. But not tear down an engine in the parking lot. So figure cost of towing if you can not easily get it running.

Agreed' take the 2 hr. drive and inspect it. Bring some tools. Even a breaker bar with sockets and check to see if the engine is locked. If oil smells/looks good. Antifreeze is up, that's a good sign. Could be as simple as a bad gound or blown fuse. If you find the problem and runs. Put the problem back as it was and keep yer mouth shut.

If you do not figure it out.....all bets are off. I've see first hand where someone force fully broke the signal wire off the starter solenoid by bending it back and fourth and auctioned it off as it will not crank. Fixed the wire and while cranking you can hear the engine was trashed. Got parted out in the end

My personal car some scum bag poured ATF in the coolant reservoir nicely sitting on top, not even mixed. Still bought the car, flushed the antifreeze and have put 200k on the odometer in 7 years with no major repairs. Has 315k on it now.

I have also seen someone disable a car as a non runner as it was sold off from a fleet just because they wanted to buy it cheap at auction.

Point is, go in with an open mind bidding at an auction and don't fall in love with it.

With that said, I currently have 2 bids going on a 2000 series Allison and t444e engine that was pulled from a running bus. If I win, I expect the worst and bidded appropriately.

I purchased my bus at an auction and knock on wood it has been good. I think I have a small coolant leak as I can top it up to max and then it drops 1 inch shortly after. I see no leaks and it start/drives fine. I just turned my heat taps off to the heaters and will monitor.

[demoman]

I have purchased a lot of things from auctions especially government ones where they were listed as non running. One was a truck that when I called the guy said it needs a new engine. I came out and test it and the said the engine light is on so it needs a new engine. I reset the obd light and nothing was wrong at all. It had just been sitting a few years dead. Ive been driving it for 7 years now. Another time I got an ATV that just needed the carb bolts tightened and ran fine. My point is many times they want to put absolutely no effort into fixing it because their department get none of the money back from the sale.
I would go look at it in person and like others mention bring at least a battery to see if it turns on or has codes. You need to be sort of careful doing it when the mechanics are around because if you find something simple and get the bus started they might use that information and update the listing for everyone to see and now you have more competition.
John

[Dbacks2k4]

I'm a little late to the party, but I bought my bus with "known engine issues".

I *thought* I knew what was wrong with it based on my experience and detailed explanation of the symptoms by the school district. I bid just enough that if I had to scrap it after buying that it'd hurt, but not kill my ambitions - mostly because I'd been searching for almost a year for a bus with very specific features that was hard to find. Long story, not so short, I was wrong about what was wrong with it. Expensive dealer "diagnostic fee" and $5k later for a 1600 mile step-bed tow (partially offset by what I'd budgeted to drive it home) I was able to fix the actual issue at home in my own shop for under $100.

Obviously better if you can inspect ahead of time and do some tests, pull codes, etc. In my case the bus was halfway across the country and pre-inspection wasn't feasible

So to me it's kinda like gambling at a casino. Don't bet more than you're OK with losing, and maybe you'll hit a winner even if the odds are not in your favor

[Rucker]

Originally Posted by dpeterson3

I am looking at bidding on a bus. It has everything I have been looking for. DT466 per-emissions, 6 windows, factor AC, dog-nose, air brakes, and only 2 hours from home. Now for the problem. The description says "WORKING CONDITION UNKNOWN", then in response to a question, it says "NOT RUNNING. MILEAGE UNKNOWN". Based on the answer to some other questions, I think the listing party hasn't tested or barely tested the vehicle and is not willing to do any troubleshooting. In other words, I think it may be listed as not working because no one tried. I am going to call this week and see if I can speak with someone who has worked on the bus and see what their assessment is.

Opinions on how hard I should go after it? I do have some mechanical skills and electrical skills and am no stranger to tearing down a motor in a parking lot. Likelihood I could get it running enough to get home assuming it wasn't used as a parts bus.

Tempting, for sure, but it's piling risk upon risk and could potentially destroy your dream.

Your case may be different, but for the average person I'm thinking that even entertaining sweet deals like this is approaching the whole skoolie thing from the wrong perspective.

Fact: it is very, very, very unlikely you'll score that sweet deal where you get it for cheap and it will take a hundred bucks to fix. Here's my counterpoint, a hard truth we've seen in this forum time and again.

Folks new to conversion should buy a solid, running rig. The best they can afford. It gets them more quickly to the point where they can start the conversion, a difficult enough process on its own.

The skoolie conversion experience will be a verrry different one if you buy a non-running bus that challenges your knowledge, skills and experience to the limit, burns your dollars, and saps your creative drive, all before you even start on the conversion itself.

Don't underestimate the weight of a broken bus sitting in your yard for months on end while life moves on.

But you are hopeful, and eager to learn. The greatest thing is you came here and asked the question in the first place. And yes, I also have one of those 'bought it for sixty bucks, put a pint of tranny fluid in, and drove it for forty thousand miles' stories. Things like that happen, but to start thinking like that out the gate, first bus conversion, with the whole rest of the job ahead of you, in my opinion, it's the wrong starting point, and beyond risky.

Buy the best working bus you can afford.

[Omnibot2000]

Originally Posted by Rucker

Tempting, for sure, but it's piling risk upon risk and could potentially destroy your dream.

Your case may be different, but for the average person I'm thinking that even entertaining sweet deals like this is approaching the whole skoolie thing from the wrong perspective.

Fact: it is very, very, very unlikely you'll score that sweet deal where you get it for cheap and it will take a hundred bucks to fix. Here's my counterpoint, a hard truth we've seen in this forum time and again.

Folks new to conversion should buy a solid, running rig. The best they can afford. It gets them more quickly to the point where they can start the conversion, a difficult enough process on its own.

The skoolie conversion experience will be a verrry different one if you buy a non-running bus that challenges your knowledge, skills and experience to the limit, burns your dollars, and saps your creative drive, all before you even start on the conversion itself.

Don't underestimate the weight of a broken bus sitting in your yard for months on end while life moves on.

But you are hopeful, and eager to learn. The greatest thing is you came here and asked the question in the first place. And yes, I also have one of those 'bought it for sixty bucks, put a pint of tranny fluid in, and drove it for forty thousand miles' stories. Things like that happen, but to start thinking like that out the gate, first bus conversion, with the whole rest of the job ahead of you, in my opinion, it's the wrong starting point, and beyond risky.

Buy the best working bus you can afford.

100% agree. Always expect the worst. I had worked for a government agency that sold off surplus equipment. When we auctioned off equipment, 70% of the time we were dumping it. Knowing that yes, it was in running condition, but sold because it was on borrowed time. Again, I always plan the worst unless the add states otherwise.