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Old 07-19-2018, 04:01 PM   #1
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Bus won't start after replacing fuel filters. HELP!!!

Hi �� I have a 98' international dt466e Thomas. I recently replaced the primary and secondary filters. Now she won't start. I replaced the hand pump, the old one was bad anyway. But that didn't work. I bought batteries but that didn't work. I've tried ether, nothing. What could be causing the bus not to start when she had no issues at all before replacing the filters? Months would go by and she would start right up. It's hurricane season here in south Florida and we're close to some really tall trees. If a storm comes, we need to move her. That's a huge part of why we chose to live in a bus. Please advise what else I could try. Thank you!!!

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Old 07-19-2018, 04:30 PM   #2
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It is most probably an air lock. Some engines, after a filter replacement, need to be primed much like an old hand pump. Once the fuel flow is restored, it should start as it always did. I experienced this with an international straight truck with a 466.
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Old 07-19-2018, 04:43 PM   #3
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After changing the fuel filter on my t444e it usually takes a couple dead batteries worth of turning over to get the fuel where it needs to be. Grab a battery charger

Oh, and don't be too eager. Let that starter cool down between attempts
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Old 07-19-2018, 04:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capnron View Post
It is most probably an air lock. Some engines, after a filter replacement, need to be primed much like an old hand pump. Once the fuel flow is restored, it should start as it always did. I experienced this with an international straight truck with a 466.
I replaced the hand pump. Not it.
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:42 PM   #5
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When you replaced the filter and water separator, did you fill them first with clean diesel juice?
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:48 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by CaptSquid View Post
When you replaced the filter and water separator, did you fill them first with clean diesel juice?
Yup. I did.
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Old 07-19-2018, 06:50 PM   #7
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Sorry, but I had to ask the obvious question.
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:13 PM   #8
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Sorry, but I had to ask the obvious question.
Capt Squid,- you also asked this question in order to remind noobs (like someone with a blue bus I know) to do this, too.

Thanks.
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Old 07-19-2018, 11:00 PM   #9
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Hard to imagine that it isnít a priming issue.
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:52 AM   #10
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x2 for priming issue. I assume there is a bleeder screw, loosen it and pump pump pump until there is fuel coming out of the bleeder screw. I heard it can take a while. In my diesel truck it would take a few minutes, but in a bigger bus, double that?!?!
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:18 PM   #11
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I've replaced the hand pump. There's fuel in the lines. I've charged batteries over and over. Today it sounded like it was just going to turn and it stopped. When we tried again, it wouldn't even click to crank. As if no power was going to it at all. Or as if the batteries weren't even connected. Yet there were, with full charge. I tried 3 times. Letting it rest for 5-6 minutes in between.
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Old 08-15-2018, 08:49 AM   #12
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It wouldn't hurt to load test your batteries. Even if they are showing a full charge they may not be supplying enough currant to start the bus. You would have to disconnect them and test individually. Next check all to connections between the battery and starter. If batteries and connection check out and still no cranking it might be wiring from your ignition switch or be that your starter is fried. If you spent alot of time cranking your starter might be fried.

For priming the fuel find the return line from the engine. (Dt466e owners should be able to help with this) Pull it off and pump the hand primer until fuel with no air bubbles comes out. Attach the line and start.

Ted
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Old 08-16-2018, 03:22 PM   #13
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Where is the starter in relation to the engine?
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Old 08-16-2018, 04:27 PM   #14
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First of all, Sounds like you have a couple things going on. I am trying to follow the best I can but it sounds like your bus was cranking over but not starting at first...then not cranking over at all after that? First of all you have to get it to turn over. You said you had a good working reliable bus before filter change right? So what did you touch? If you replaced the batteries with new charged ones and the bus will now not turnover I would bet money that not all your connections are tight and clean. I help a lot of folks out around here with there rigs and 9/10 times they just wiggle the terminals and think that's good enough. This thing uses a ton of June to start. Everything has to be as tight and clean as can be. Check it all again and connection to solenoid too. Once you get it to turn over, find the air bleed on the pump or near it and crack it open. Pump the hand pump or turn it over.i don't know if you filled the filters with fuel before you put them on or not. Pump it long long after you see fuel.you have to get ALL the air bubbles out. Close air bleed and try it again. Next I would go to the injectors.crack the fuel supply line on two.. turn it over till fuell sprays out both.crack the next two.ect. always be ready to shut the engine down.. especially when you get to the last two as it may try to start. That is my piece. Also, if you replaced the hand prime pump make sure you have no air leaks there
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Old 12-25-2021, 08:03 AM   #15
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Know this is old but I'm curious, did you ever get it to start?
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Old 12-25-2021, 09:11 AM   #16
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I'll bet the OP got it started...by now, I sure hope so. But this old thread has some consistent themes and raises two of the evergreen problems. First, the mention that the batteries are "fully charged" but aren't cranking the engine. As TJones mentioned, the batteries should be load tested. I'm a bit late to the party...since Ted suggested that way back in 2018! But, here's a video I shot a couple of weeks ago and just uploaded yesterday:

https://youtu.be/ystmn3ly61Q

And, the original problem is almost certainly a fuel priming issue. Even a small air pocket can prevent priming after a filter change or, as I did recently, running out of fuel. It can take quite a bit to prime a fuel system after either one of these occurrences and may, as mentioned by a couple of the members above, require cracking the injector lines. Using ether to run the engine, to help with priming, is never a good idea. This might help someone facing a loss-of-fuel-prime issue...skip to 15:17 to get to the priming part:

https://youtu.be/0SI_zeZfQXM
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Old 12-25-2021, 01:13 PM   #17
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Great video, I have used a carbon pile load tester for years, and they will find a weak battery. A simple old school battery test is to turn on your headlights and see how dim they get when cranking -- you should see them dim a little bit with a good battery but if they get really dim -- low voltage!
Also the small capacitance testers are really good -- they will find bad cells in the battery really quick.
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Old 12-25-2021, 01:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmythomas View Post
Also the small capacitance testers are really good -- they will find bad cells in the battery really quick.
That's good to know. I honestly don't have any experience with them...and didn't know if they were as reliable as a "real" load. Maybe if this one burns up I'll try one of those newfangled testers. If you have one you recommend, let me know.
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Old 12-25-2021, 04:16 PM   #19
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This is the one I use -- it is very durable and accurate -- and made in USA if that matters.
OTC / SPX 3183 (I tried to post a linky thing but.....)
I was skeptical at first, but this thing is the go to tester, followed up by the Snap-On MT3759 carbon pile if I can't get a conviction....

This and a Power Probe are about all you need to fix electrical issues.
Of course you need wiring diagrams or knowledge of the circuit, but these two will get the job done.

The fuel priming issue is a real pain, years ago my friend had this issue and in desperation stuck the air nozzle and a rag in the filler neck and pressurized the fuel tank for a few minutes to get fuel to the pump.
It got him going after 3 hours of screwing around with stinky Diesel fuel.
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Old 12-25-2021, 06:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmythomas View Post
This is the one I use -- it is very durable and accurate -- and made in USA if that matters.
OTC / SPX 3183 (I tried to post a linky thing but.....)
I was skeptical at first, but this thing is the go to tester, followed up by the Snap-On MT3759 carbon pile if I can't get a conviction....
Here's a link, for others: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-3183-Digi.../dp/B000O1E4W0

Thanks for the recommendation. I might have to come into the modern age and give it a try. Someday.

And yes, the Power Probe is sweet and I'm working on a "troubleshooting with the Power Probe" video as I get opportunities to test things on customer buses. I would add a signal tracer to your duo, as well.

Again...thanks and Merry Christmas.
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