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08-16-2020, 10:00 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Oregon
Posts: 29
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: DT466E
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Can I cut these heater out of my bus?
I got all the seats out but one that one is but I'll figure some way to get it out. My problem is two heaters. I've removed all the bolts holding it to the floor, and loosened the hose clamps, but they still will not pull loose. Can I cut the two pipes coming out of it? Is there fluid of any kink in there? I don't know any thing about heaters and don't want to do any thing stupid. I would obviously disconnect the power first. Here are some pictures of what I'm talking about. The last pic is just to show the bus so far with the one seat that is giving me head aches. Thank you in advance for any advise.
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08-16-2020, 10:09 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 994
Year: 1999
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If you don't plan to use it, just cut the hoses, a razer blade works well.
It will have antifreeze in it, no big deal, just wipe it up, or be prepared and put towels down before cutting it.
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08-16-2020, 10:53 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Oregon
Posts: 29
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: DT466E
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The hoses are metal so I'll have to use an angle grinder to cut through them. Is there a way to drain the antifreeze?
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08-16-2020, 11:10 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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The hoses are not metal, the fittings on the heater itself that the hoses connect to are. If you lift those square metal shields running along the floor there, they cover the hoses. Trace the hoses back under the hood and just get a short piece of hose to go from the outlet to the return. Have a tub ready to collect all the antifreeze in the hoses.
Your second picture clearly shows the hoses and the hose clamps holding them to the heater core. Park the bus on a downhill angle, when you disconnect the hoses under the hood, they will drain the coolant. Remove the hoses and then the heaters. You need to make sure the front still gets heated air for the defroster.
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
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08-16-2020, 11:10 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Montana/Texas
Posts: 681
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Crown by Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: 230 HP DT 466e/MT 643!
Rated Cap: 16
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If you look at the picture, you could also just loosen the hose clamps and remove the rubber hose from the metal hose barbs! Much easier than cutting the metal...
John
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08-16-2020, 11:17 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Remove all the metal covers to the hoses, this will reveal how easy it will be to disconnect it all.
__________________
I Thank God That He Gifted Me with Common Sense
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08-17-2020, 12:16 AM
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#7
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Oregon
Posts: 29
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: DT466E
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Thanks for the advise I will try removing the plates covering the hoses. I've loosened the hose clamps so something else is holding them together.
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08-17-2020, 12:19 AM
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#8
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Oregon
Posts: 29
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: DT466E
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O1marc,
I never thought about the defrost for the windshield. Will removing these heaters leave me with no window defrost? That would not be good.
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08-17-2020, 12:33 AM
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#9
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 994
Year: 1999
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I guess I am in demo mode, so I'm just removing things and not worring about keeping anything working. As said, you will eventually need to loop the water hoses going to this heater. But for now, if you don't care about it, cut the metal if you want.. it looks like there are hole to stick a screwdriver in to undo the clamps. The hoses tend to stick pretty good and don't just slide off after undoing the clamps. If you cut the metal, the box will move out of the way and you can get to the hoses easily would be my opinion.
Or you can use a razor on the hoses and cut down on them to open them up so they come off the pipes, if you can get to them that way.
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08-17-2020, 12:55 AM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Once you remove the metal covers along the bottom of the wall and free up the hoses, disconnect the wires from the heater blower. The heater core and all will now be able to move. You can take it out the passenger door still all hooked up. Once it is out the door, you can have room to remove the hoses from the core and have a bucket handy to allow it all to drain into the bucket. No muss ... no fuss. Once it all drains out, remove the other end (at the driver side console) and make a loop out of a few feet of one of the hoses back into the other hose. Now you can take the hoses and heater cores out of your bus. This also keeps the front heater (to include the defrost) intact.
Oh ... there are a couple of shutoff valves at the driver's left knee .... turn them off before starting so that you can minimize the amount of antifreeze you loose.
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08-17-2020, 01:11 AM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 994
Year: 1999
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08-17-2020, 07:50 AM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,782
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MorningOwl
I've loosened the hose clamps so something else is holding them together.
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The hoses are inevitably "glued" on there with corrosion and such. For old hoses - if I don't want to cut the hose - I loosen off the hose clamps then jam something like a flat head screwdriver down alongside to break up the corrosion. That and a bit of wiggling and they always pop off.
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08-30-2020, 09:25 PM
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#13
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 8
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This may be a very silly question, but we are at the point of disconnecting our heater. Once we cut the two hoses and then loop them together, we need to put more antifreeze in right?
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09-01-2020, 05:18 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Yes if you leak out antifreeze in the process. Check the level once the engine is running.
__________________
--Simon
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09-01-2020, 05:20 PM
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#15
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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So on this same subject, Since I will also want to remove the heaters but keep the defrost, has anyone run the hoses under the bus? Perhaps use copper pipe to and from? I could wrap them in insulation so as not to run the engine too cool in cold climates. What say you'se? (Said in my NYC tone)
__________________
--Simon
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09-01-2020, 06:52 PM
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#16
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Eastern Shore of VA and Fleming County, KY
Posts: 151
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner
Engine: CAT 3126E210
Rated Cap: 33,050 pounds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bus'n it
So on this same subject, Since I will also want to remove the heaters but keep the defrost, has anyone run the hoses under the bus? Perhaps use copper pipe to and from? I could wrap them in insulation so as not to run the engine too cool in cold climates. What say you'se? (Said in my NYC tone)
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I have done this, using brand new heater hose, straight from the rear engine compartment to the front defrost and back again. I stuck with the 1" or so hose like was was used inside, to match up with all the connectors at each end, only brand new. Technically, I had the people that repaired my radiator do the work, but I paid for it.
You'll want the defrost and driver's heater, for sure. Just be sure none of your hoses get kinked, that tends to impede good flow rates. The hoses run inside the frame rails now.
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09-01-2020, 07:51 PM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,707
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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yep you can run heater hoses under the bus.. since heater hoses are rather soft and somewhat thin.. i'd put them in flexible tubing as an extra barrier of protection..
Air conditioner hoses are run under busses all the time without issue however they have several layers of rubber and strength material that heater hoses dont have..
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09-01-2020, 09:06 PM
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#18
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Kansas
Posts: 143
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12v
Rated Cap: 60
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Heater hoses are made out of the same material as the radiator hoses that feed all the coolant to and from the radiator.
They are outdoor rated.
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09-01-2020, 09:26 PM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,707
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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For water and heat but not from slung or flying objects or road salt..
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09-01-2020, 09:35 PM
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#20
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 787
Year: 1993
Coachwork: 44' Newell Coach
Engine: 8v92T Detroit
Rated Cap: 2 adults and two pigeons
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Would running copper pipe be a solution under there? I would find that easier to secure I guess
__________________
--Simon
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