Come on guys ospho coroseal rustoleam

[Lherrlinger]

Which is the best converter ospho coro seal rustoleum any thoughts? About to apply soon

[jjhwick119]

That one!

I'm not at this step, but what I've seen reccomended more often than not on this forum is ospho

[jazty]

I haven't used Corroseal, but assuming it's similar to Ospho and other phosphoric acid based rust converters it should work just fine. The phosphoric acid is what does the work. The rest is just proprietary fluff, in my opinion. I wouldn't sweat it.

Rustoleum, on the other hand, is an affordable oil based paint. Very different from the others you listed. You'll want to treat the steel with a rust converter first and paint afterwords.
Rustoleum fits into the "OK" category of paints. It's cheap, fairly durable, looks alright. Certainly it has no comparison to automotive 2-part paints. That being said, I painted my bus with the stuff and I'm happy with it. Use an enamel hardener and you'll reduce the dry time from several months to several weeks Yeah, it's a slow dry.

[Ninjakitty]

I will be using TotalBoat Rust Primer. Should have first coat down this weekend. I'll come back to post pictures.

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[burley bus]

Originally Posted by jjhwick119

That one!

I'm not at this step, but what I've seen reccomended more often than not on this forum is ospho

ospho what I'm using two coats looks like black metal then oil base paint

[2martins]

Por 15 has some fans, too. I got the impression that it maybe converts and sort of seals at the same time? I think it's more expensive, but if it saves you a step, it might be worth looking into. I already have a gallon of Ospho so I'm starting with that. I might use something different underneath if I run out doing the inside.

[Lherrlinger]

How about an adhesive / caulk I’m having to replace two of the sheets of flooring and was needing to glue it down to the frame and seal the sides so she’s watertight

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by 2martins

Por 15 has some fans, too. I got the impression that it maybe converts and sort of seals at the same time? I think it's more expensive, but if it saves you a step, it might be worth looking into. I already have a gallon of Ospho so I'm starting with that. I might use something different underneath if I run out doing the inside.

POR 15 as explained to me isnt a rust converter but a rust encapsulator.. so it seals it up and keeps new rust from forming.. I have used it alot in old car projects.. it is awesome stuff and works great but a total PITA as far as clean-up is concerned.. dont get it on you is all i can say.. you definitely dont wash POR-15 off of you with water in the sink.
-Christopher

[Twigg]

POR15 is a sealant, not a rust converter.

It's very expensive but useful for things like sealing motorcycle gas tanks that have developed tiny pin-holes.

I wouldn't be using it on a bus.

[brokedown]

All the rust converters should be more or less equivalent. THe active ingredient is the same. As long as you follow treatment with a good clean up (sweep!) and cover it with a protective layer (rust preventing oil based enamel or similar) the particular converter you use shouldn't matter.

[Tango]

The only rust "coverter" I have found that was any different from most is a product called "Restore" by Quest Chemical. Been using it on the rebar in my sculpture for well over a decade now. Unlike most other products, it does not need a topcoat in order to get the protection. It converts the surface oxidation to an organic compound plus forms a tough polymer finish all in one pass.

Tested it for about four years trying to force rusting on some rebar and could not get any to form. Naturally, I am using it all over my bus.

[Lherrlinger]

Can I glue flooring to that? Or should I glue to metal and apply around it?

[Tango]

I treated my floor and then added a couple of coats of an insulating paint (no room for anything else). Then glued and screwed marine ply on top of it all.