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Old 04-02-2020, 06:08 PM   #1
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Emergency hatch cover up

I’ve just removed both of my emergency hatch doors and welded all the holes up. I know I probably did not have to weld them up, but I needed the practice. I did a search on the forum and found only what people wanted to about leaks. I’m covering both holes with 16 gauge galvanized sheet. Is the best method to use butyl rubber and then just use self tappers and then seal the screws and edges of the sheet with maybe Dicor or some other product to keep it from leaking. Any other suggestions? The front hatch I will cut the sheet metal for a rooftop unit.

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Old 04-02-2020, 06:58 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Phatman View Post
I’ve just removed both of my emergency hatch doors and welded all the holes up. I know I probably did not have to weld them up, but I needed the practice. I did a search on the forum and found only what people wanted to about leaks. I’m covering both holes with 16 gauge galvanized sheet. Is the best method to use butyl rubber and then just use self tappers and then seal the screws and edges of the sheet with maybe Dicor or some other product to keep it from leaking. Any other suggestions? The front hatch I will cut the sheet metal for a rooftop unit.
I wonder if your original hatch covers would fit my bus? I'm planning to keep mine but make them fully removable, with ones I can swap out like hats (one normal one for driving, one with a plexiglass skylight, one with a screen etc.) but I need some more hatches that people get rid of usually.

If you're already up to welding, I would just stitch-weld the sheet over the big hole and then put seam sealer like Dynatron-550 over the seams and you're done. I'm not sure about welding with galvanized, though. Otherwise self-tappers all around and then seam sealer over the edges and the screw heads.

If I cared about how it looked I'd probably rivet on a nicely-cut round-cornered patch, wet-riveted with the 'tron and sealed under the edge of the patch.
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Old 04-02-2020, 07:19 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
I wonder if your original hatch covers would fit my bus? I'm planning to keep mine but make them fully removable, with ones I can swap out like hats (one normal one for driving, one with a plexiglass skylight, one with a screen etc.) but I need some more hatches that people get rid of usually.

If you're already up to welding, I would just stitch-weld the sheet over the big hole and then put seam sealer like Dynatron-550 over the seams and you're done. I'm not sure about welding with galvanized, though. Otherwise self-tappers all around and then seam sealer over the edges and the screw heads.

If I cared about how it looked I'd probably rivet on a nicely-cut round-cornered patch, wet-riveted with the 'tron and sealed under the edge of the patch.
Yeah, I’m really not worried about what it looks like. When you say stitch weld, you mean jumping back and forth to not warp the metal? Using Dynatron, would it steal be good to use the butyl tape underneath?
Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-02-2020, 07:21 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
I wonder if your original hatch covers would fit my bus? I'm planning to keep mine but make them fully removable, with ones I can swap out like hats (one normal one for driving, one with a plexiglass skylight, one with a screen etc.) but I need some more hatches that people get rid of usually.

If you're already up to welding, I would just stitch-weld the sheet over the big hole and then put seam sealer like Dynatron-550 over the seams and you're done. I'm not sure about welding with galvanized, though. Otherwise self-tappers all around and then seam sealer over the edges and the screw heads.

If I cared about how it looked I'd probably rivet on a nicely-cut round-cornered patch, wet-riveted with the 'tron and sealed under the edge of the patch.
I will save my hatches for you Musigenesis.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:09 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Phatman View Post
I’ve just removed both of my emergency hatch doors and welded all the holes up. I know I probably did not have to weld them up, but I needed the practice. I did a search on the forum and found only what people wanted to about leaks. I’m covering both holes with 16 gauge galvanized sheet. Is the best method to use butyl rubber and then just use self tappers and then seal the screws and edges of the sheet with maybe Dicor or some other product to keep it from leaking. Any other suggestions? The front hatch I will cut the sheet metal for a rooftop unit.
I used the method you described exactly (except I used lexan instead of metal to make them into skylights). The front one has been in since January and I have had no leaks whatsoever.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:17 PM   #6
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Yeah, I’m really not worried about what it looks like. When you say stitch weld, you mean jumping back and forth to not warp the metal? Using Dynatron, would it steal be good to use the butyl tape underneath?
Thanks for the info.
For stitch welding I more mean not trying to weld the entire seam all the way around, just short stretches here and there to hold the patch on mechanically, and then relying on the seam sealer to waterproof it. I've never used butyl tape, but I think Dynatron by itself will make a seam watertight - if not, my bus is going to be awfully wet.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:23 PM   #7
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Is the best method to use butyl rubber and then just use self tappers and then seal the screws and edges of the sheet with maybe Dicor or some other product to keep it from leaking.

That's exactly what we did. Butyl under the edge, self tappers all the way around, then Dicor the crap out of the screw heads and the seam around the perimeter. It's been 2 years and no leaks (yet).
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:25 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
For stitch welding I more mean not trying to weld the entire seam all the way around, just short stretches here and there to hold the patch on mechanically, and then relying on the seam sealer to waterproof it. I've never used butyl tape, but I think Dynatron by itself will make a seam watertight - if not, my bus is going to be awfully wet.
Sounds good. I will get to practice my welding a little more. I will take a picture of the emergency hatched tomorrow.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:27 PM   #9
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I will save my hatches for you Musigenesis.
This is my type of hatch:

Click image for larger version

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The plastic rim on the bottom part is about 22.75" inches across. Do you think yours are a match?
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:59 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
This is my type of hatch:

Attachment 42775

Attachment 42776

Attachment 42777

The plastic rim on the bottom part is about 22.75" inches across. Do you think yours are a match?
They look similar. I will check tomorrow.
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Old 04-02-2020, 10:51 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Drew Bru View Post
That's exactly what we did. Butyl under the edge, self tappers all the way around, then Dicor the crap out of the screw heads and the seam around the perimeter. It's been 2 years and no leaks (yet).
Thanks Drew blu.
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:57 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
This is my type of hatch:

Attachment 42775

Attachment 42776

Attachment 42777

The plastic rim on the bottom part is about 22.75" inches across. Do you think yours are a match?
Note the style as well. Your Genesis hatches are differentthan those on our Thomas and Carpentermay have yet another style.
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