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Old 02-26-2007, 10:22 AM   #1
Bus Crazy
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
Posts: 2,351
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
Well, I'll get you started with the oil. You need motor oil for diesel engines.
A common brand is Rotella T, which is a Shell brand.
Another is Delo 400, which is... Chevron, I think (not sure).
There are others, and even synthetics. Just ask the store for diesel motor oil.
You should be safe with 15-40 weight.

Others will have MUCH MORE info shortly.
Millicent The Bus - roof raised two feet, toy-hauler tailgate.
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Old 02-26-2007, 02:15 PM   #2
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I'm sure a Factory Service Manual for that chassis is available somewhere. Ignore the body manufacturer and just look for the chassis like it was a cube van, flatbed, whatever. Also, it all else fails, I'm sure a manual for a Ford pickup with the 7.3 IDI would help you a lot as it is essentially the same motor (there will inevitably be differences).

The other option, and this is the one I use, is to go to the local dealer and see what they can do for you. It might be a little easier given mine has a Ford chassis, but I just go to the dealership and ask for print outs of stuff like my injection system plumbing when I was doing my WVO conversion. They were more than happy to print up the pictures from the fiche for me.
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:09 PM   #3
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Posts: 704
You might find some good info in early to mid 90's F350 service manuals, many of them came equipped with the Int'l 7.3L diesel... those had some Ford specific items on it like PS Pumps etc...but the motor itself is the same!!

You just might be a Redneck if...
...your motor home used to be a school bus!
...Your living room has a steering wheel!
...Your home has brake lights

1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1989 Thomas Diesel Pusher (Cat 3208/Freightliner)
Chesapeake, Virginia
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Old 02-26-2007, 11:01 PM   #4
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Savage, MN
Posts: 472
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 diesel
Rated Cap: 14
I often go to when I'm either stomped on something or just want to learn something new. They cover the 6.9 and 7.3 in its own section. It also has the different years of the psd in other sections.
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Old 02-27-2007, 02:40 PM   #5
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Location: near flint michigan
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i can't remember off the top of my head what the proper API oil classification is for diesel engine oil, but it's something that starts with a "C" like Cl or Ch. Is the C for Compression engine? not sure. both Rotella T and Mobil Delvac 15/40 are available at my local wal-mart and pretty much every single truck stop in the country. I think those are the 2 most common oils that carry the API classification for diesel oil. (these 2 brands also carry the classification for gasoline motors) If you have a Tractor Supply store near you and want to save $$ it's a good idea to check them out. They have tsc store brand oil and other fluids sold in 5 gallon containers that are usually rather inexpensive. Personally i'd prefer to spend a few extra dollars to buy delvac or rotella by the gallon (or 5 quart container sometimes?) as it is so much easier to poor into the enine.

My old bus held 5.5 gallons of oil, and my new one holds about 4. Niether of these had the 7.3 litre so i can't help much on oil quantity.

the most current gasoline oil is rated Sl i think? Each new classification supercedes the previous one.
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes (who will watch the watchmen?)
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Old 02-27-2007, 03:12 PM   #6
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C= compression ignition, S= spark ignition

For the newest diesels and the Tier II emissions business there is a new classification of CJ-4. I know Rotella T has it, but I'm not sure about any other brands (haven't looked).

As far as my engine, I run Phillips 66 Super HD. Yes, the stuff is cheap (but it's not Super Tech ) but it is what the mechanics at both the local Ford stealership and the local Detroit Diesel-Allison Transmission. The reason? I don't put enough miles on to worry about it. My manual calls for oil changes every 6,000 miles. After an oil analysis, it would appear I could go longer, but I don't put that many miles on so I have to change the oil after 3 months (I don't like condensation). The oil meets the CI-4 specification.

Check your manual and see what oil your engine calls for. Just because the newest oil supercedes the oldest doesn't mean you need it or even should run it. There are some transmission out there, for example, that will burn out the synchronizers if you use the wrong GL rating.

As for the easiest way to fill the oil....My dipstick is huge and in a fairly convenient location, but filling with quarts would be a pain. I carry a few to top it off if I burn any, but that's it. I either use my pump to drain a 5 gallon bucket or use a large funnel that closely resembles a beer bong and pour in gallons. My biggest issue is finding a big enough drain pan.
Skooling state at a time...
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