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Old 12-06-2017, 06:08 AM   #421
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
spam??? really?????
You said you built and sold robocallers. Those things suck.

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Old 12-06-2017, 07:22 AM   #422
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You said you built and sold robocallers. Those things suck.
What really sucks are the gaskets on these Dodge water pumps!
I'll be all day just getting the old one off, if I'm lucky.
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:42 AM   #423
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You said you built and sold robocallers. Those things suck.
I never Sold any.. I built them for friends running for political office. yeah they do suck.. and of course I blocked my own phone numbers out in a secret table in the Database.. so no matter who got hold of that thing it would never call me

-Christopher
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:46 AM   #424
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What really sucks are the gaskets on these Dodge water pumps!
I'll be all day just getting the old one off, if I'm lucky.
true on aluminum.. scotch bright wheel cut down to a smaller diameter so you can get it in there might be the ticket. ive seen people use some crazy stuff to seal a water pump.. ie JB weld or Liquid nails.. and that crap is a PITA to get off.. RTV will usually scrape off pretty easily..

wonder if you can fit a rubber wheel in there like you use for adhesive..

-Christopher
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:48 AM   #425
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So far all that's working is spraying aircraft stripper, wait, rinse, scrape. Repeat.
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:57 AM   #426
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So far all that's working is spraying aircraft stripper, wait, rinse, scrape. Repeat.

yeah that stuff has to penetrate so it takes time on hardened adhesive... but wow WTF did they seal it with,, usually aircraft stripper eats through things rather quick.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:00 AM   #427
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It wasn't bullshit, it was simple common-sense.

All driving advice says don't go faster than the braking distance you can see. That is why Interstates and other fast roads do not have hump-backed bridges and tight curves ... It's so you can see when driving 70 mph.
It IS bullshit. There's many an interstate where you can't see thru a pass. You might not be doing 70 but you ain't doing 20 either. Many an unlit country road where you don't see the other side of the crest.

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If you haven't been drinking you will never be held liable for consequential damage in a traffic incident not caused by you. We need to hold the cars to the same standard, and we need to have the discussion.
Not quite the right wording. Cars aren't culpable for anything. Nor the software unless it fails. Transference of guilt (if that's a thing) will be the same. A semi cut me off so I hit the school bus. The computer car won't do that. Sucks for you but it's better for you to die than the 87 little snot lickers so it'll just steer you under the semi instead.

This ethics problem will only be a "problem" while there is a mix of manual and computer cars on the road. Even if the computer cars slow to 20 in the above, they will all slow to 20 and there won't be any wrecks. They won't decide to say Fuk it at the yellow light.

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you can get yourself removed from a robo-system easily by recording a S.I.T. tone at the beginning of your voicemail message.. the calling system will pick this up as a non working number and take you off the Database...
-Christopher
You're speaking over my head but I get many a robo-call that is either dumber than your system or doesn't work. Every once in awhile if I see half a dozen calls from the same number, I'll go ahead and answer it. I won't say anything. If it's a human, someone will say something eventually. If it's a computer doing a transfer to a human, they will say something. Most often I get NOTHING. No voice, no beep, no dial tone. Not lately (last couple of years), I've had the phone call for 5 minutes and it never makes a noise nor hangs up. Your spam calls trying to sell me a time share are annoying but I get it. The calls that do not leave a voice mail and have no one on the line when I answer are the ones that piss me off.

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If I see a cliff coming up, the seatbelt is definitely going to be a hindrance.
If you have that much time, I'd just use the brakes.

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I'm not in favor of auto braking but I sure would like autopark for the bus sometimes. Other drivers would appreciate it if I had lane assist. As big as a bus is people simply tend to get out of the way.
If auto brake keeps the soccer mommy or the power broker from plowing into me, I'm all for it. Since it's illegal to get out and beat the ever loving $hit out of them for sucking at driving, a smarter car is the only way to go. Now if they want to give a skills test that only lets 1 in 5 actually get a license, I'm all for that!!

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when humans are PRO-actionary they will almost always make better decisions than the computer.. ie if you see flashing lights wayyyy ahead on the road. but the traffic is still moving 70 with plenty of room between cars.. your instinct is to be ready to slow down in case you need to.. the computer of the present-day thinks all is well..
Am I extra cranky this week? Another B.S. flag for you. Come on Mr. Techno. Computers see, act, and react quicker than humans ALL the time. Can you see in the IR range? Can you see in the UV range? You damn sure can't see in the gamma range. Gamma might not be all that useful but reading the temp of the road surface will show that spot of ice. Useful distances may still be a problem for current sensors but if you can see brake lights and a traffic backup, there's no chance in hell a computer is going to miss that. That or you need a better computer!!

Quote:
do the computers reduce accidents? too early to tell.. ie what if someone was following me somewhat close.. yeah my computer reacts and keeps me from smashing the driver who pulled out.. but would the driver behind me react quick enough (or his computer) to keep from rear ending me?
-Christopher
Bullshit. Computers will reduce accidents. Again the problem is when there is a mix of vehicles on the road. You can't program the computer to avoid the stupid. It can react but why the hell did you just pass me at 80 mph, get in front of me and drop to 55mph when there are 3 empty lanes? We've all seen it and there is no logic.

In the all computer world, your car isn't going to pull out in front of me. If it does, my computer reacts. The guy behind me has the same computer reaction time as well. No worries. Now if your tires are bald and you have no traction well, you're at fault for not maintaining your car. No different than today.

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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Spent ALL afternoon just getting the old pump off.
I did one of these before and the gasket left on the block is nearly impossible to remove. I'm literally at a loss.
Razor blade and wire wheel.

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t-stat mounts straight on top on the engine. BEHIND the alternator for some reason.
I'm not sure I feel comfortable wire wheeling on it because its aluminum.
I may try a scotch brite pad on a drill or something.
Brass wire wheel then? Never shopped for one but someone must make an AL wire wheel or one meant for use on AL.

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I wasn't going to replace the radiator hoses, just the hoses from the engine to the pump.
Why?!?? They are generally stupid cheap. Hell, I bought spares before a cross country trip as insurance. Didn't use them but it was $30 maybe? Took belts and water too. This was before cell phones and AAA.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:11 AM   #428
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Its $70 for the upper and lower rad hoses.
I was trying to get my work van back on the road without spending hundreds of dollars.

I'm not keen on wire wheeling a surface that has to seal perfectly.
Razor blade is tough to maneuver in the confines of the work area and can also cause a lot of damage.

Just pecking away at it bit by bit.

You guys really should start a new thread for your discussion.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:15 AM   #429
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This is after four hours of work, roughly.
My 93 Dakota was exactly the same.




Thermostat hidden behind the alternator and its bracket.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:32 AM   #430
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what do you do? pull the alternator to get at the T-stat? looks like how the tstat on my Bus is.. its shoved in next to the air compressor and close to the fan.. I changed it when the whole bus was torn apart.. but gonna hate on it when I have to change it next time..
-Christopher
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:43 AM   #431
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Yeah, gotta move the alt and replace the t-stat. It would be silly not to.

Got the gasket soaking in aircraft stripper. Again.
I'm making progress.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:48 AM   #432
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Any van is a pita I think and sorry for you to have to run into such challenges. necessary though and will make it run like new, giving you confidence in it. I would also replace any vacuum hoes visible and within reach while things are opened up.

John
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Old 12-06-2017, 09:10 AM   #433
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You guys really should start a new thread for your discussion.
As I recall, you're one of those admin types around. Go create a Lounge.
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Old 12-06-2017, 09:59 AM   #434
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As I recall, you're one of those admin types around. Go create a Lounge.
I'm not an admin. I used to be a mod, but it was tiresome getting trolled night and day by gnat.
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Old 12-06-2017, 11:29 AM   #435
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Is there any sign of permatex under your gaskets? That's how gaskets get glued down like you're describing.

When I was working in a shop permatex was used for things that simply wouldn't stop leaking.

I'm curious to know if you've used your heat gun on the gasket removal?
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:44 PM   #436
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Is there any sign of permatex under your gaskets? That's how gaskets get glued down like you're describing.

When I was working in a shop permatex was used for things that simply wouldn't stop leaking.

I'm curious to know if you've used your heat gun on the gasket removal?
Hmmm... "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" is a Permatex product IIRC. That's my go-to in such situations. I don't have a LOT of experience ungasketing something that I gasketed, but my memory is not that it was a wrestling match. Single sided razor blade and it acted kinda brittle, crumbling as it came off.

Are we talking about the same stuff? or are you not claiming that it creates a PITA for the next guy in line?
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:48 PM   #437
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Is there any sign of permatex under your gaskets? That's how gaskets get glued down like you're describing.

When I was working in a shop permatex was used for things that simply wouldn't stop leaking.

I'm curious to know if you've used your heat gun on the gasket removal?
Its way tougher than permatex.
Its unique to dodges, as every other water pump I've ever done has been much easier to de-gasket.
The thermostat was a real PITA, as was most of this job.
I'm cooling down right now. Got the new pump, thermostat, and hoses all in.

not quite done with gaskets, but part of the way through-


The t-stat are was a pita to clean


Didn't get pics in betweeen, but here's the t-stat housing/water outlet reinstalled.


Alternator and bracket reinstalled and most hoses replaced.


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Old 12-06-2017, 01:57 PM   #438
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I'm glad it's working out for you, even slowly. You done good.

Back in the diesel shop I have even seen a head permatexed to the block because it wouldn't stop leaking. That was after doing three head gasket replacements on it. If finally stopped leaking and the truck went back home, but about three months later it came back to the shop for another head gasket naturally. In attempting to get the head off again we used the overhead shop crane and lifted the entire front end of the truck off the ground without any signs of the head loosening. It finally got a new engine with new heads. My apologies to the rebuild depot.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:22 PM   #439
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I'm glad it's working out for you, even slowly. You done good.

Back in the diesel shop I have even seen a head permatexed to the block because it wouldn't stop leaking. That was after doing three head gasket replacements on it. If finally stopped leaking and the truck went back home, but about three months later it came back to the shop for another head gasket naturally. In attempting to get the head off again we used the overhead shop crane and lifted the entire front end of the truck off the ground without any signs of the head loosening. It finally got a new engine with new heads. My apologies to the rebuild depot.
Wow, that was some PERMATEX !



DIRECTIONS:
Remove heavy silicone residue using Permatex® SaferScraper™.
Spread liberally on surface and let stand for several minutes to soften gasket material.
Allow longer contact time for thick layers.
Wipe material with a clean rag or scrape from surface with Permatex® SaferScraper™.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:48 PM   #440
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Going to go pick up my $250 rebuilt drive shaft for my $640 gov deals pick up truck and hope that fixes my vibration issue, next up is the replacement of the Swiss cheese like bed, found a used one with no rust, $550 installed, then a steering wheel
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