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12-11-2017, 06:50 PM
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#501
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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12-11-2017, 07:49 PM
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#502
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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It sure sounds to me like the shop that worked on the dodge rearend ought to be liable for it being messed up. They gave a clean bill of health after working on it. It hasn't traveled far enough since that shop did the work to cause excessive wear this quickly. They screwed up.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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12-12-2017, 03:47 AM
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#503
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
Here is the issue ....
The diff, if set correctly, is the most reliable bit of the bus next to the steel wheels. They are usually set in the factory, and never need touching.
It's possible yours could have worn either by being set-up incorrectly, or by negligence from the owner.
Unless you are absolutely sure you can do that job right, it's one job best left to an experienced transmission shop. You can cut the bill by removing the axle yourself, but you are in a world of hurt if you mess it up.
Done right it should be good for a million miles. Done right, they never wear out.
Oh, and don't let that "mechanic" anywhere near it again
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HE won't be touching any more of my stuff. BTW- He's the owner of the local transmission and driveline shop.
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12-12-2017, 03:49 AM
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#504
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
It sure sounds to me like the shop that worked on the dodge rearend ought to be liable for it being messed up. They gave a clean bill of health after working on it. It hasn't traveled far enough since that shop did the work to cause excessive wear this quickly. They screwed up.
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Its only been about 50 miles since he "rebuilt" the diff.
It sat for a few weeks while I was waiting to do the water pump. Funny- all my repairs are spot on. Its only when I call in the professionals that things get screwed up!
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12-12-2017, 03:54 AM
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#505
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
a ring and pinion is a ring and pinion.. in a van like EC's there is no 3rd member so you have to take the vehiucle to the shop.. you can just pop the guts out of it and work it on a bench like in many heavier vehicles.. and even the old ford 9 inch diff...
it comes down to the fact that all mechanical parts wear over time.. if someone tows huge weights more than what the van was designed for or at the maximum for its whole life then the gear set will wear faster.. a million miles for a consumer vehicle rear is a bit much.. 250-300k definitely likely but will usually have some wear and some noise by then...
every one ive ever worked on. was aftermarket, however the common theme was that the first run or two of the diff is the final machining of the gears.. so its necessary when brand new to set it up correctly, drive it, drain it, take it apart and measure it all again, and set it up again, fresh oil and all.. on GM 8.5's you use shims for the pinion depth and for the left / right positiuon of the carrier which is typically how the lash is handled.. incorrect lash is the mosrt common reason for noise on a newer set of gears.. and sometimes you can quiet it down on an older set ..
since his shop had it completely apart, id expect them to have Measured pinion depth and adjusted accordingly.. or told EC that his gears were shot like he asked them to..
its possible the pinion bearing was so bad that it deflected and caused excessive wear on one surface or the other..
or the shop just "wings it" and puts it back together till it "feels right" whiuch wont generally make for a quiet rear.. even the most seasoned of seasoned guys ive watched put one together are measuring depth and lash and tooth mesh pattern with paste..
-Christopher
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I think you're right.
What pisses me off is that he had it apart, and I specifically told him I wanted new gears. He slapped it all back together and said they looked new.
I just smiled and walked out when he told me it would be a grand to fix it.
No integrity. Since I'm no longer ever using his services I'm gonna call him tomorrow and let him know how I really feel.
I'll give him honest reviews online, too. Bout all I can do.
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12-12-2017, 08:38 AM
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#506
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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I'd spend a day out in front of his shop and talk to customers. Tell them to avoid him like the plague, the dirty rotten so and so. In fact make signs for the van telling people what a shister that arsehole is. Demand your money back to or take him to small claims court.
In the meantime,plug it with sawdust and then dump it.
I would never buy a used vehicle online without having driven it. Old schooll here but it still works.
John
__________________
Question everything!
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12-12-2017, 09:00 AM
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#507
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,715
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I think you're right.
What pisses me off is that he had it apart, and I specifically told him I wanted new gears. He slapped it all back together and said they looked new.
I just smiled and walked out when he told me it would be a grand to fix it.
No integrity. Since I'm no longer ever using his services I'm gonna call him tomorrow and let him know how I really feel.
I'll give him honest reviews online, too. Bout all I can do.
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ultimately you trust a mechanic.. and usually you feel good when someone calls up and says "hey dude your gears are fine, .." you do a happy dance inside that you just saved $400 on not needing a gearset..
an honest mechanic will usually show you.. when a shop guy says "sorry you cant go back there, i cant show you whts wrong" I get leery right then..
a guy that says "come on down to the shop I want to show you" usuyally gives me a better feeling right away..
and of course this guy mighjt be such a dufus that he has no idea if the gears are worn or not.. and yeah maybe the gears actually are like new but he just flubbed putting them back together.. doesnt want to eat the cost of tearing it apart again so says "$1000!" ill put gears in..
-Christopher
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12-12-2017, 09:16 AM
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#508
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
Is the setup different? Differential gears are what they are on rear-wheel drive vehicles.
Oh yeah, I said "bus", but still ...
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See Chris' reply. I was just thinking heavy duty (bus) vs. production (wimpy). Even a 5 ton van would be wimpy compared to a 33,000 GVWR.
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12-12-2017, 10:13 AM
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#509
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 386
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In regards to the differential discussion: Any ring and pinion replacement should have a contact pattern run on it. Incorrect contact will cause premature failure. Too deep and the expansion from heat causes noise and wear. Too shallow there's not enough tooth contact to support the load causing tooth breakage. If you have never done one bite the bullet and pay a tech.
Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
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12-12-2017, 10:19 AM
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#510
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,715
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfersmurf57
In regards to the differential discussion: Any ring and pinion replacement should have a contact pattern run on it. Incorrect contact will cause premature failure. Too deep and the expansion from heat causes noise and wear. Too shallow there's not enough tooth contact to support the load causing tooth breakage. If you have never done one bite the bullet and pay a tech.
Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
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THIS!!!
always paste the gears!!
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12-12-2017, 10:20 AM
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#511
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfersmurf57
In regards to the differential discussion: Any ring and pinion replacement should have a contact pattern run on it. Incorrect contact will cause premature failure. Too deep and the expansion from heat causes noise and wear. Too shallow there's not enough tooth contact to support the load causing tooth breakage. If you have never done one bite the bullet and pay a tech.
Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
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I did bite the bullet. See a few pages back.
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12-12-2017, 10:30 AM
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#512
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 386
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FYI: most automotive gear sets come with a tub of gray paste. No its not prelube that's gear marking compound! And the Chrysler corporate rear ends have issues. I had one lose the pinion bearings at 90k due to using cheater axle bearings also called repair bearings. The chamfer on the flange for the wheel Is too close and wears off the seal- diff runs low on oil and howls. I was running all terrain tires and thought it was tire noise. Then one day massive vibration and a tow bill. I didn't even bother bought new axles bearings and gear. Axles from Strange. All told? $750 and 4 hrs. (No Lift)
Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
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12-12-2017, 10:36 AM
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#513
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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My next move with the rear on this van will be to find a 9.25 out of a 3/4 ton or one ton of the same year and swap them. I'll need to swap the yokes, and the driveshaft may need to be shortened a little, but that's preferable to dumping more time and money into this problematic 8.25.
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12-12-2017, 10:38 AM
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#514
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfersmurf57
If you have never done one bite the bullet and pay a tech.
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That ain't no way to learn.
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12-12-2017, 10:42 AM
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#515
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
My next move with the rear on this van will be to find a 9.25 out of a 3/4 ton or one ton of the same year and swap them. I'll need to swap the yokes, and the driveshaft may need to be shortened a little, but that's preferable to dumping more time and money into this problematic 8.25.
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That soulds like some learnin'.
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12-12-2017, 11:34 AM
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#516
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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More expensive, untested, hard to find parts into your van doesn't sound economical or wise. Go get yourself a good working van that will last you. Someone used that thing hard me thinks.
John
__________________
Question everything!
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12-12-2017, 11:36 AM
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#517
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
More expensive, untested, hard to find parts into your van doesn't sound economical or wise. Go get yourself a good working van that will last you. Someone used that thing hard me thinks.
John
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They used it TOO LIGHTLY, is the problem.
1/2 ton dodge rear ends are FAMOUS for failing early, especially of this vintage.
I've got enough $$ in the van and I like the van, so finding a more permanent fix than this wimpy, whiny 8.25 seems pretty logical to me.
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12-12-2017, 11:41 AM
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#518
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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I guess CB. Just doing the math it doesn't seem logical. Parts and labour, downtime, fluids, etc...I'd flog it quick. You'll have a few more g's into it before you know it. Just sayinn
John
__________________
Question everything!
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12-12-2017, 11:45 AM
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#519
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,715
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
I guess CB. Just doing the math it doesn't seem logical. Parts and labour, downtime, fluids, etc...I'd flog it quick. You'll have a few more g's into it before you know it. Just sayinn
John
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if you could say that before he layed a finger on it maybe..
but now he has fixed pretty much everything.. so you dump it now? buy another van that has 100k miles on it and will need a water pump, belt, coolant flush, etc at some point..
theres no signs his engine or trans is ready to pop.. the body is solid.. so it has a noisy rear that he can drive on perhaps for another 50k or more while he shops for a good deal on a 9.25 to stuff under there.. itsa not like the van is broken down..
-Christopher
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12-12-2017, 11:45 AM
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#520
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,826
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn
I guess CB. Just doing the math it doesn't seem logical. Parts and labour, downtime, fluids, etc...I'd flog it quick. You'll have a few more g's into it before you know it. Just sayinn
John
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Its a nice van. Clean, low mileage. I've got the maintenance records.
Its a decent rear diff away from perfection.
Once we sell the Subaru with the actual BAD problems we plan to double down with another dodge or gm van. This time a 70's to 80's model.
I've never killed a manual transmission, or even a clutch except once on an old abused VW van. But this subaru's manual transmission is dying quickly at 62k miles.
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