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Old 08-20-2019, 03:22 PM   #21
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Have you tried 2 30 ton jacks and a 6x6 across the front? If you use 4 you can level front/back and side/side

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Old 08-20-2019, 06:00 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jwilcox View Post
Hello friends, so my skoolie has been parked and used as storage for two years but now I want to start using it as an office space. It isn't very level though and I really don't know how to fix this! The nose is probably two feet lower than the rear end. How can I get it up onto blocks (if blocks are even safe for that matter) or raise up the nose/lower the rear without having to buy big heavy duty ramps and/or dig a big hole for the rear tires? I've been at a loss for this for two years but now I really need the bus and need to get this figured out. The bus runs fine so moving it is not a problem. Thanks in advance.
Jamie



This doesn't seem to be much of a problem to me, just a bit of work, but if you don't want to buy jacks, cement blocks, and cedar shingles for shims and do it yourself, you could just call a mobile home leveler to do it for you. You only have to have 1 jack, but 4 is quicker. Harbor Freight sells 12 ton bottle jacks for about $30 each, you can get away with 8 ton or even less, but heavier is better. If you can find 4x4 or bigger lumber for temporary dunnage it will make it easier/quicker.



Back in the 1950's we used marbles on flat floors to find level... doesn't work on carpet.


I read some of the answers and people were concerned over the compression strength of wood blocks, not really a worry. What you really want to be concerned with is the compression strength of the soil. Termites or rot can be a concern if you use untreated wood. Make sure that you have a big enough base block under your jacks and block pillars so that they don't sink into the ground. Jack it up high enough to take the load off of the tires, you can leave the wheels on to act as a safety should the blocks fail or sink into the ground. (The wheels/axles are usually removed on permanent mobile home installs, but the frames are much wider - closer to 6-7 feet, so they are not as easy to turn over) Once the weight is off of the tallest ends wheels you could dig under the wheels a bit and lower it down some to limit the overall height. You can fill back under the wheels with rocks/bricks if you have to move it. Or dig out (inline with the wheels) first, drive the bus into the hole/trench, then jack it up.



Since truck.bus frames are so narrow, usually around 34" wide, you may wish to put beams sideways under the frame so that you can put the stands further apart, width wise. This would increase stability from dynamic loads such as people movement and side winds. You may wish to consider tie downs if you live in a windy area. They are required by law or common sense in some areas for mobile homes.


You can probably find videos for house/trailer/mobile home leveling on YouTube.
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Old 08-20-2019, 11:27 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post
Wood doesnít last forever, but using lumber like this is extremely strong. If you donít do anything obviously stupid this will support a huge amount of weight.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Box_crib


I saw a set of ramps built out of 2" X 10's - built on edge - had 2"x4' blocks spacing between the 2 x 10's - wide enough to fit the duals - looked very sturdy - the owner said they used them for their bus
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