Homemade Skylight

mitchk · 04-29-2020, 03:02 PM

So I am considering putting in a long skylight above my bed. I thought that I could simply cut out the sheetmetal and seal in a sheet of lexan or Acrylic. I would put it in between 2 ceiling struts so it would be about 24inches wide and anywhere from 48 to 60 inches long. I figured I could make a removable insulation piece that would fit up against the window when it is very hot or cold and I want better insulation. Any thoughts on this plan?

Jfoster503 · 06-28-2020, 07:10 PM

We're planning something similar after removing our leaking roof hatch. Cut a bigger hole, seal a piece of Lexan over it, with a much nicer boat hatch in the middle. Did your skylight work out? If my solar panels weren't above the bed I might consider stealing the idea.

mitchk · 06-29-2020, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jfoster503

We're planning something similar after removing our leaking roof hatch. Cut a bigger hole, seal a piece of Lexan over it, with a much nicer boat hatch in the middle. Did your skylight work out? If my solar panels weren't above the bed I might consider stealing the idea.

Yes, I bought a 24 x 54in piece of lexan and installed it above my bed. It was actually super easy to do. I just pre drilled all the holes through the lexan and sheetmetal and sandwhiched sika 1a in the joint. The screws went in easy and I didn't have any issues with cracking. I do think there is a possibility that the Lexan will yellow in 10 to 15 years but I think having it for that time is worth the chance of needing to replace it.

Jfoster503 · 06-29-2020, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchk

Yes, I bought a 24 x 54in piece of lexan and installed it above my bed. It was actually super easy to do. I just pre drilled all the holes through the lexan and sheetmetal and sandwhiched sika 1a in the joint. The screws went in easy and I didn't have any issues with cracking. I do think there is a possibility that the Lexan will yellow in 10 to 15 years but I think having it for that time is worth the chance of needing to replace it.

That’s awesome that it worked. I’ve heard that lean is much easier to work with, though more expensive. Thanks for replying.

Sevier · 12-13-2020, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchk

Yes, I bought a 24 x 54in piece of lexan and installed it above my bed. It was actually super easy to do. I just pre drilled all the holes through the lexan and sheetmetal and sandwhiched sika 1a in the joint. The screws went in easy and I didn't have any issues with cracking. I do think there is a possibility that the Lexan will yellow in 10 to 15 years but I think having it for that time is worth the chance of needing to replace it.

Hi there! How has your skylight worked out with moisture condensation? We were thinking about a legit skylight, as it has mechanisms built in to prevent all that mess. But your plan is so much simpler!

mitchk · 12-13-2020, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sevier

Hi there! How has your skylight worked out with moisture condensation? We were thinking about a legit skylight, as it has mechanisms built in to prevent all that mess. But your plan is so much simpler!

I haven't had a single issue with condensation! Maybe I just haven't noticed, but either way it hasn't bothered me. I have two tension curtain rods running long ways with the window. When I want light from the skylight I just pull the front rod off and let the curtain hang down. I've really liked it and I think it adds a lot to the bus!

Sevier · 12-13-2020, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchk

I haven't had a single issue with condensation! Maybe I just haven't noticed, but either way it hasn't bothered me. I have two tension curtain rods running long ways with the window. When I want light from the skylight I just pull the front rod off and let the curtain hang down. I've really liked it and I think it adds a lot to the bus!

Nice! We're going to install our skylight in our bathroom. The way our floor plan will be, the bathroom will be the full width of the bus, and nearly 4' deep, after the kitchen, and right in front of the bedroom (so you walk through the bathroom to get to bedroom). The doors will remain open, with shower to one side, toilet to other, unseen from kitchen and living room, so there is a nice view straight through to the back of the bus (its a 37' dog nose). We will be putting beautiful colorful tile on the floors and wall so it feels a bit like an art piece, not just a bathroom. Will be hanging a plant or two from the skylight. Hoping that light from the bathroom gives a nice glow to the rest of the bus (we will replace our two emergency exits with air fans).

Did you give the screws any locktight or sealer, as well as the joint?

musigenesis · 12-13-2020, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sevier

Nice! We're going to install our skylight in our bathroom. The way our floor plan will be, the bathroom will be the full width of the bus, and nearly 4' deep, after the kitchen, and right in front of the bedroom (so you walk through the bathroom to get to bedroom). The doors will remain open, with shower to one side, toilet to other, unseen from kitchen and living room, so there is a nice view straight through to the back of the bus (its a 37' dog nose). We will be putting beautiful colorful tile on the floors and wall so it feels a bit like an art piece, not just a bathroom. Will be hanging a plant or two from the skylight. Hoping that light from the bathroom gives a nice glow to the rest of the bus (we will replace our two emergency exits with air fans).

Did you give the screws any locktight or sealer, as well as the joint?

It sounds like your bathroom skylight is going to be exactly where the rear exit hatch is.

mitchk · 12-13-2020, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sevier

Nice! We're going to install our skylight in our bathroom. The way our floor plan will be, the bathroom will be the full width of the bus, and nearly 4' deep, after the kitchen, and right in front of the bedroom (so you walk through the bathroom to get to bedroom). The doors will remain open, with shower to one side, toilet to other, unseen from kitchen and living room, so there is a nice view straight through to the back of the bus (its a 37' dog nose). We will be putting beautiful colorful tile on the floors and wall so it feels a bit like an art piece, not just a bathroom. Will be hanging a plant or two from the skylight. Hoping that light from the bathroom gives a nice glow to the rest of the bus (we will replace our two emergency exits with air fans).

Did you give the screws any locktight or sealer, as well as the joint?

That sounds lovely! So I had an inch of overlap between the lexan and the Sheetmetal roof. I put a couple of passes of tape one inch from the outside of the 4 edges of the lexan to protect it from getting sealant on it. I then put an inch strip of Sika down on the Sheetmetal roof where the lexan would be over lapping. I predrilled holes every couple of inches in the lexan and used self tapping screws to attach it to the roof. So the screws were going though the layor of sealant and didn't require any additional sealing. I put another layor of sealant on top of the joint and over the screw heads after it was attached just to be safe.

ol trunt · 12-13-2020, 10:39 AM

Like Mitchk I have never had any condensation form on my skylight. I used two layers of polycarbonate of "cardboard box" like construction, stuck it down with double stick tape and sealed the end cavities with clear silicone so the whole thing acts sort of like a dual glazed window. Mitchk's curtain idea is a very workable and effective design especially it's KISS attributes. My curtain became a little less than simple because my skylight is hinged to go up to provide head room. I used a down comforter as the basis of my curtain and I'm happy with the way it helps retain heat.
Jack

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Sevier · 12-13-2020, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchk

That sounds lovely! So I had an inch of overlap between the lexan and the Sheetmetal roof. I put a couple of passes of tape one inch from the outside of the 4 edges of the lexan to protect it from getting sealant on it. I then put an inch strip of Sika down on the Sheetmetal roof where the lexan would be over lapping. I predrilled holes every couple of inches in the lexan and used self tapping screws to attach it to the roof. So the screws were going though the layor of sealant and didn't require any additional sealing. I put another layor of sealant on top of the joint and over the screw heads after it was attached just to be safe.

Super helpful, thankyou! Can you explain how you used the butyl tape again? Im not sure I understnad what you mean when you say "I put a couple of passes of tape one inch from the outside of the 4 edges of the lexan to protect it from getting sealant on it". As in, the Butyl didnt touch the lexan at all, it was just on the roof of the bus?

mitchk · 12-13-2020, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sevier

Super helpful, thankyou! Can you explain how you used the butyl tape again? Im not sure I understnad what you mean when you say "I put a couple of passes of tape one inch from the outside of the 4 edges of the lexan to protect it from getting sealant on it". As in, the Butyl didnt touch the lexan at all, it was just on the roof of the bus?

Sorry that wasn't super clear. I have rhe writing ability of a 6 year old haha. So I didn't use any butyl tape. I simply used wide painters tape on the inside of the lexan close to the joint because I knew the sealant that I had sandwiched in between the lexan and the Sheetmetal would puff out onto the lexan. So the tape was just there for easier clean up. You could probably use butyl tape in between the lexan and sheet metal instead of a sealant. Once it was smashed down with some screws I'm sure that would work as well.

Sevier · 12-13-2020, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchk

Sorry that wasn't super clear. I have rhe writing ability of a 6 year old haha. So I didn't use any butyl tape. I simply used wide painters tape on the inside of the lexan close to the joint because I knew the sealant that I had sandwiched in between the lexan and the Sheetmetal would puff out onto the lexan. So the tape was just there for easier clean up. You could probably use butyl tape in between the lexan and sheet metal instead of a sealant. Once it was smashed down with some screws I'm sure that would work as well.

ohhh, makes total sense now, thankyou, and super clever! At least you dont think like a 6 year old

Sevier · 12-13-2020, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchk

Sorry that wasn't super clear. I have rhe writing ability of a 6 year old haha. So I didn't use any butyl tape. I simply used wide painters tape on the inside of the lexan close to the joint because I knew the sealant that I had sandwiched in between the lexan and the Sheetmetal would puff out onto the lexan. So the tape was just there for easier clean up. You could probably use butyl tape in between the lexan and sheet metal instead of a sealant. Once it was smashed down with some screws I'm sure that would work as well.

One last question - which sika did you use? We are already ordering 220+ for our windows where the glass meets the frame, but I'm not sure if thats right for metal to lexan?

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