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08-08-2016, 01:30 PM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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How terrible of an idea is it to use wood instead of sheet metal?
As the title states.... I'm considering using wood instead of thin sheet metal on the bus sides, since I've raised the roof. Really just tossing the idea around so I though I'd ask opinions. It seems to me it would insulate better, and possibly be a little more sturdy? And of course, about 1/3rd the cost. However, it obviously wouldn't last as long. Thoughts?
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08-08-2016, 02:31 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Garden State (rural NJ)
Posts: 378
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Are you referring to the interior or exterior sides?
Wood is traditionally used extensively on the interior (walls, ceiling and sometimes floor) of skoolie conversions. As for the exterior, I'll let others debate the the merits. I want my skoolie to be as low maintenance as possible.
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08-08-2016, 02:33 PM
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#3
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Sorry. Exterior walls. I was thinking something like birch. Light and deals with water very well.
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08-08-2016, 04:24 PM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
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I would stay away from wood on the outside. The outer skins of the bus actually contribute to the rigidity of the structure of the bus itself. I know its more expensive to use sheet metal, but in the long run it is worth it. I used 16 gauge and my bus is rock solid after a roof raise. It will be much more durable in the long run as well, I.E. less maintenance/upkeep/headaches. After doing it with sheet metal I would NEVER recommend using wood instead.
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08-08-2016, 04:29 PM
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#5
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slaughridge85
I would stay away from wood on the outside. The outer skins of the bus actually contribute to the rigidity of the structure of the bus itself. I know its more expensive to use sheet metal, but in the long run it is worth it. I used 16 gauge and my bus is rock solid after a roof raise. It will be much more durable in the long run as well, I.E. less maintenance/upkeep/headaches. After doing it with sheet metal I would NEVER recommend using wood instead.
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Well that's where I'm kind of hung up at. How much of the outer skin really is structural at this point? I cut my window posts and welded in steel tubing. Structurally speaking, it should be solid. 20 gauge steel is about 48 pounds per sheet, wood is about 12. Etc etc. I'm just going over it in my head lol. I mean, people have been building things from wood along time before steel. I dunno. Thanks for your input!
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08-08-2016, 04:33 PM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
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No doubt wood has been used much longer. But, how many old wooden structures have you seen living life going down the highway at 65mph for an extended period of time? Road vibration is a killer.
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08-08-2016, 04:33 PM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Oooohhh that's true.
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08-08-2016, 05:26 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,835
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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road vibration and wood is tough to seal agaibst metal so getting water in seems likely at some point.. the thinner the wood the tougher its going to be to get it to last... its going to want to warp and roll...
I think it could be done if you are completely anal about upkeep of the finish on it and made sure every rock chip or ding was repaired immediately as far as touching up whatever varnish you used.. and then you would have to be good about predicting wind direction over your bus as you flashed and sealed the wood where it meets metal.. (the wind doesnt always travel front to back...)..
-Christopher
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08-10-2016, 02:08 AM
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#9
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
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Even with cut posts for windows spanning one or more ribs, the exterior sheet provides significant shear strength to the structure.
Make a 12 inch square from some sticks, tape a layer of tissue paper to the frame, then skew the frame. Paper tears in the middle.
Do the same with a layer of commercial aluminum foil. It will take more effort to rupture the metal sheet on frame.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbohall001
Well that's where I'm kind of hung up at. How much of the outer skin really is structural at this point? I cut my window posts and welded in steel tubing. Structurally speaking, it should be solid. 20 gauge steel is about 48 pounds per sheet, wood is about 12. Etc etc. I'm just going over it in my head lol. I mean, people have been building things from wood along time before steel. I dunno. Thanks for your input!
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08-16-2016, 11:44 AM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb
Even with cut posts for windows spanning one or more ribs, the exterior sheet provides significant shear strength to the structure.
Make a 12 inch square from some sticks, tape a layer of tissue paper to the frame, then skew the frame. Paper tears in the middle.
Do the same with a layer of commercial aluminum foil. It will take more effort to rupture the metal sheet on frame.
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That's true... I didn't even think about that. Well hell  guess the bus is gonna have to chill a while.
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08-16-2016, 01:20 PM
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#11
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 21
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 48
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Im considertion using roofing metal to cover 5 of my 8 windows. havn't quite figured out how to seal it though...but this is all a long ways off.
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08-16-2016, 01:24 PM
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#12
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Like the corregated metal?
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08-16-2016, 01:35 PM
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#13
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 21
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 48
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I was thinking just the classic ribbed metal roof running lenthwise to kinda match the rub rails. haven't run the math much but with the saving I hope to justify spray foam insulation directly to the roofing metal to add extra rigidity. Has anyone seen metal roof on a skoolie?
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08-16-2016, 01:37 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Kent, WA (Seattle)
Posts: 414
Year: 1987
Engine: 6.9L Diesel
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I sheeted my bus with metal, it is feels durable and looks awesome. I had so much fun I sheeted more than I intended, I would totally do it again.
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08-16-2016, 01:58 PM
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#15
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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I'd prefer metal myself. But at $150 a sheet I'm looking at ALOT of money
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08-16-2016, 06:17 PM
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#16
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbohall001
I'd prefer metal myself. But at $150 a sheet I'm looking at ALOT of money
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What what WHAT?!? $150 a sheet? I'm assuming you're talking about a 4'x8' sheet of 18ga steel? Was that at a proper metal supplier, or HomeDepot? Yikes.. I feel very confident that you can find a better deal than that somewhere around Shreveport. I bought 4'x10' sheets of satin coated steel for ~$60 per sheet up here in the North.
Talk to a couple steel warehouses and fabrication companies. You might be able to find something more competitive.
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08-16-2016, 06:25 PM
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#17
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty
What what WHAT?!? $150 a sheet? I'm assuming you're talking about a 4'x8' sheet of 18ga steel? Was that at a proper metal supplier, or HomeDepot? Yikes.. I feel very confident that you can find a better deal than that somewhere around Shreveport. I bought 4'x10' sheets of satin coated steel for ~$60 per sheet up here in the North.
Talk to a couple steel warehouses and fabrication companies. You might be able to find something more competitive.
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I checked Home Depot and a place called Service Steel and Pipe Supply. The cheapest I've found so far is $88 for 20 gauge non galvenized 4x8 sheet.
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08-16-2016, 06:38 PM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty
What what WHAT?!? $150 a sheet? I'm assuming you're talking about a 4'x8' sheet of 18ga steel? Was that at a proper metal supplier, or HomeDepot? Yikes.. I feel very confident that you can find a better deal than that somewhere around Shreveport. I bought 4'x10' sheets of satin coated steel for ~$60 per sheet up here in the North.
Talk to a couple steel warehouses and fabrication companies. You might be able to find something more competitive.
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Yeah, what kinda steel you using OP?
Where are you located? If you're anywhere near me I can get you WAY better prices. I get steel at wholesale cost.
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08-16-2016, 06:40 PM
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#19
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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I'm in Shreveport, Louisiana. I've been shopping around for different kind. But everything is at least 90 a sheet.
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08-16-2016, 06:42 PM
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#20
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbohall001
I'm in Shreveport, Louisiana. I've been shopping around for different kind. But everything is at least 90 a sheet.
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Too far to make it cost effective, oh well. It was worth asking!
Call around to some fab shops, they'll definitely beat big box store pricing on steel. My jaw drops when I see the $40 pieces of square tubing at lowes for like $40. I can get whole sticks cheaper.
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