License plate location delete

[JackE]

So I want to fill in this indentation on both sides of the engine bay lid. With the roof raise I plan on deleting the rear windows and having a full canvas for a mural. I also plan on an array of lights on the back. I’ll locate the license plate down to the bumper where the Blue Bird tag is right now.

Any suggestions on how to get rid of these indentations?

[Native]

Originally Posted by JackE

So I want to fill in this indentation on both sides of the engine bay lid. With the roof raise I plan on deleting the rear windows and having a full canvas for a mural. I also plan on an array of lights on the back. I’ll locate the license plate down to the bumper where the Blue Bird tag is right now.

Any suggestions on how to get rid of these indentations?

I am reposting my last post in your build thread:


It depends on your skillset.


If it were me, I would weld in a piece of sheet metal the same size of the indent's outer edges then finish up with the needed bodywork.


You might get away with filling it with something like Bondo to fill it in, but Bondo does not do well when applied that thick.

You can replace the panel entirely. That is what I did on our back wall on the outside (i.e. the skin) due to rustout. Remounted the lights in a different configuration.
You might also use bodyworking techniques to pull that indent back out ... but the skin on these beasts is quite thick and it takes a lot of muscle to bend it to your will. I have done a little on ours, and it takes orders of magnitude more strength than automobile skins.

[musigenesis]

I second @Native that cutting these indents out and welding in a replacement patch of flat sheet metal is the way to go. You can even give the cut-out indent to somebody who needs it (I have an extra one of these that a user here sent me but I ended up not using it.

If you're not a welder and don't plan on doing any welding, you could instead rivet flat patches over the indents. A bus already has tons of stuff on the outside riveted, so this would not look unusual.

[ol trunt]

If the plate indent isn't deeper than 1/8" to 3/16" Bondo will work fine. Don't try to fill all at once but rather build five "bondo bridges" vertically by dabbing on bondo and leveling it by gently pressing masking tape covered paint stir sticks into it to get it level with the rest of the body. The bondo won't stick to the tape so you will be able to pull them off leaving the bridge behind all nice and level. Once the bridges are complete just fill the intervals between the bridges by squeegeeing in a couple of layers of bondo. This method will save lots of material and afford a smooth flat surface. Be sure to sand before appluing bondo.
Jack

[Native]

There are also various mixes of Bondo ... some with fiber fillings ... that may prove to work better in high-buildup scenarios. I have little experience with these products so I can not comment on their effectiveness.


I agree with Ol Trunt ... put it on in SEVERAL layers, should you go the Bondo route.