Quote:
Originally Posted by La Camioneta
|
.
a)
!!! STOP !!!
.
If the head-gasket is bad -- or on some intake-manifolds -- coolant can leak into a cylinder... between the piston and the cylinder-head.
Unlike a gaseous compound -- such as atomized petroleum plus air -- coolant cannot compress.
.
* Attempting to start an engine with coolant trapped in a cylinder can bend at least one connecting-rod... requiring an in-frame re-build of the entire engine, including re-straightening the crank-shaft and replacing all the bushings and bearings.
* Attempting to start an engine with coolant trapped in a cylinder can strip the teeth on the fly-wheel... requiring removal of the transmission to replace the fly-wheel and probably the starter.
.
An automatic transmission uses a flex-plate instead of a fly-wheel; the concept is identical.
.
b)
As a diagnostic:
If I was me, I would remove the injectors.
This opening gives an escape path for any trapped fluid.
I would 'bump' the ignition-switch for a split-second to slightly rotate the engine without starting it.
.
This starter 'bump' could be enough to expel some coolant from a defective area of the innerds.
That gives a beginning for checking the potential for me to dig into it.
.
On a V-8 or V-10 -- gasoline or diesel -- you may be able to repair only one head.
.
c)
There is a reason for the failure.
Unfortunately, the head may need to be re-surfaced or repaired.
.
Worst-Case:
The block may be cracked... requiring another engine?
.
d)
A typical motorhome -- nearing a quarter-century old -- may not be worth repairing.
The industry term is 'Economically Unfeasible'.
.
In that situation, a partially-functional engine has some core value.
An engine with bent rods and a warped crank is pretty much scrap-value at the smelters.
.
The exception would be a Caterpillar 3406 mechanical or a Cummins Big-Cam mechanical... neither are likely in your vintage.