need your critique for this plumbing post

[sammy]

finished up another how-to for my site - Water System — Buslandia

This isn't anything comprehensive, just the basics covered. But what am I missing? What do I have incorrect? Looking for any critique/feedback from people who know more about this than I do!

Thanks!

[AlleyCat67]

I saw two things.... the first is that you'll need a one-way check valve between your water pump (or accumulator tank) and the city water inlet. Without it your pressurized city water can backfill (and overflow) your fresh water tank if the pressure is higher than the pump pressure, with the possibility of damaging your pump at the same time. It might also be a good idea to have a one-way valve in the city water inlet line to prevent water pumped from the fresh water tank from leaking out the city water inlet, just in case your screw-on cap isn't on tightly or otherwise has a leak in it. The second one is not strictly necessary but it's nice to have, and that is a pressure regulator for your city water inlet. Some shore water connections can be higher pressure than your PEX can handle and cause leaks at best, or a blowout at worst. Some of the pressure regulators have a gauge on them while others do not.... the gauge is a nice-to-have kind of thing but it's not really needed.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-007...al-Check-Valve

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...regulators.htm

[AlleyCat67]

Something else just hit me too..... this one isn't strictly required but some people choose to do this... and that is to plumb your water heater with a bypass. This will take three ball valves, a couple of T fittings, and a couple of short lengths of PEX.

Cut about a 6 inch section of the input and output lines from the water heater in a location close to it (5 to 6 inches away), and connect a ball valve to each piece attached to the heater. Attach the pieces you cut out of the lines to the other side of the ball valves. Now insert one side of the straight-thru legs of the T fittings into the end of the piece you attached to the ball valves, and reconnect your water lines to the other side of the T fitting. Take the other pieces of PEX tubing and connect them to either end of the third ball valve, then insert that assembly between the two remaining T fitting connections and connect them. Crimp everything down and test for leaks.

The main advantage of doing this is, you don't have to shut down your entire water system if your water heater springs a leak. Close the two ball valves on the input and output sides, and open the bypass valve. That way water can continue to flow through the hot water system, even if it is cold water. A second advantage is if you park your rig for the winter and choose to fill the water lines with RV antifreeze you won't have to waste 6, or 10, or more gallons of antifreeze to fill the water heater. Bypass the heater like before and just drain the heater tank. Even if some water remains in it, it will have plenty of room to expand if it freezes.

[sammy]

thanks! I'll add valves into the drawing. I might add the water heater bypass in an "optional" section, since I'm starting to get a lot of "optional" suggestions from people, and can't fit them all into the diagram.

[turf]

i spent a few minutes on your website and enjoy your writing. the site looks good and is coming along nicely. keep it up!

[sammy]

Water System — Buslandia

Thanks everyone, I added in some of that stuff, and some other suggestions from the Skoolie Converters FB group.

[AlleyCat67]

Looks like you about got it covered there.... very nice.

[JHerrin]

Diagram looks great. Hope you dont mind as I may borrow some ideas. I have a 2.8 gpm Shurflo pump and was wondering if that is similar to your output. We will only have one sink plus shower so dont need alot of oomph. One way valves? Where did those come from?

[sammy]

I updated the post with some links to buy check valves on Amazon - I just linked to sharkbite ones for use with pex, but you can find other check valves pretty easily.