Opinions on this bus...

[Robin97396]

Check your fuel shut off valve to see if fuel is still flowing to the pump. This isn't the first time I've heard of an electronic fuel shut off valve working intermittently.
If that is the problem you can replace the replacement electronic valve or you could install a manual valve and never have this problem again.

Again, just a first guess.

[nwarner2010]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Check your fuel shut off valve to see if fuel is still flowing to the pump. This isn't the first time I've heard of an electronic fuel shut off valve working intermittently.
If that is the problem you can replace the replacement electronic valve or you could install a manual valve and never have this problem again.

Again, just a first guess.

I don't actually have the bus yet, so unfortunately can't check anything yet. Still debating weather or not I want it now after discovering the starting issue.
If it is the fuel shut off valve, sounds simple enough.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

My DT stared IMMEDIATELY in 10 degrees F in KY in Nov. With only ONE G31 battery. After sitting for around six months.
Cat guys need like 2 8D's to think about starting!

interesting.. is the compression just higher in the DT's to allow them to start without any help?

what oil do you run in the DT? 15-40 rotella T?

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

interesting.. is the compression just higher in the DT's to allow them to start without any help?

what oil do you run in the DT? 15-40 rotella T?

I'm running 15w40.
Rural King house brand.
IDK, but everyone I know with a DT inline engine says theirs start instantly as well.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I'm running 15w40.
Rural King house brand.
IDK, but everyone I know with a DT inline engine says theirs start instantly as well.

good deal.. sounds like I got the right kind of engine!, (and have a half a chance of working on it myself too!).. if I end up not liking my AT545 trans i'll just swap it for a 2100 or 2400..
-Christopher

[Robin97396]

So are the 2100 or 2400 superior to the 643? I'm trying to stay away from anything that has electronics on it. I understand the Allison 640 is a hydraulically controlled tranny, and I'm just guessing that it's compatible with the correct bell housing. Anyone familiar with this? Am I chasing the wrong transmission?

[Tango]

Allison's 5th gen trannies can talk to an all mechanical engine with nothing more than a TPS (throttle position sensor). They have been out now for about three years (?) and there may be a few avail at the graveyards. Big change from the all proprietary computer speak models.

Mine is a six-speed, 2200 MH that works that way.

[cowlitzcoach]

Any good high detergent heavy duty diesel engine oil like Rotella, Ursa, Delo, or Delvac in 15W-40 will work as long as it is NOT the LE version of those oils.

The LE version of oils is formulated for 2007 and newer engines and is NOT reverse compatible.

It is available if you ask for it but is usually not found on the shelves of Wal-Mart, Costco, and most auto and truck supply stores.

The newer LE oils do not have the ZDDP that is required in older engines, the lack of which will cause undue wear and premature engine failure.

If you never shut the engine off you would be okay. The problem is on start up--when the oil drains back into the sump the resulting film left behind will not have the necessary lubrication to prevent metal on metal wear on things like cam faces, cam followers, and tappets.

[shortstuff]

We just had this problem starter at Advance cost over $300. Still best deal we could find for new starter.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

Any good high detergent heavy duty diesel engine oil like Rotella, Ursa, Delo, or Delvac in 15W-40 will work as long as it is NOT the LE version of those oils.

The LE version of oils is formulated for 2007 and newer engines and is NOT reverse compatible.

It is available if you ask for it but is usually not found on the shelves of Wal-Mart, Costco, and most auto and truck supply stores.

The newer LE oils do not have the ZDDP that is required in older engines, the lack of which will cause undue wear and premature engine failure.

If you never shut the engine off you would be okay. The problem is on start up--when the oil drains back into the sump the resulting film left behind will not have the necessary lubrication to prevent metal on metal wear on things like cam faces, cam followers, and tappets.

which oil is easily found? the LE or the Non LE? I got confused... in my old hotrods I ran a ZDDP supplement as the modern oils had the same issue for older gasoline motors too..

-Christopher

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by Tango

Allison's 5th gen trannies can talk to an all mechanical engine with nothing more than a TPS (throttle position sensor). They have been out now for about three years (?) and there may be a few avail at the graveyards. Big change from the all proprietary computer speak models.

Mine is a six-speed, 2200 MH that works that way.

heck even buying a REMAN 5th gen you'd probably be equal or same in cost .. maybe even less than having to go to someone like destroked and get a standalone tranny box...

-Christopher

[cowlitzcoach]

LE (low emissions) is easily found.

The zinc in the old style oil fouls and destroys the catalyst in the emissions equipped engines built after 2007.

You have to ask for and may have to wait to purchase non-LE oil.

Just as non-LE oil is not forward compatible to newer engines, LE oil is not reverse compatible to older engines.

[cadillackid]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

LE (low emissions) is easily found.

The zinc in the old style oil fouls and destroys the catalyst in the emissions equipped engines built after 2007.

You have to ask for and may have to wait to purchase non-LE oil.

Just as non-LE oil is not forward compatible to newer engines, LE oil is not reverse compatible to older engines.

in the hotrod world it tended to be stuff running non-roller cams that required ZDDP additives..

how do I know if my bus engine requires NON-LE oil? or requires ZDDP additives? most everyone here is running busses older than 2007.. im guessing theres an age at some point where the engines didnt require ZDDP anymore?

-Christopher

[nwarner2010]

I've decided to go with the bus. Will be picking it up on May 6th! I just won't be shutting it off on the way back, just in case. Will try to post some pics up once I have it. Thank you all for the help.

[Robin97396]

They usually start it for you when you pick it up. The guy that started mine attempted to start it like a car, couple pumps on the gas and hit the starter. Sit down in the seat and switch it off, then say woops. Find out if it starts again while you're there where you can get jumped.

Here they paint over everything and remove all the stop signs before you ever get it. It's weird that some states don't do that and the new owner has to do the painting and sign removal to be legal to drive.

Have a good first drive. That's pretty cool until your hands start getting sweaty.

[nwarner2010]

Looks like due to work my trip will be a little delayed. Supposed to be picking the bus up end of next week now. Can't wait!

[Docsgsxr]

Originally Posted by nwarner2010

I spoke to one of the mechanics today to get some more info on the 'hard to start' problem.

He said it will always start when cold, but when it is warmed up it will sometimes not start, sometimes it will, just a gamble. However, it sounds as though it will start more times then not. If it doesn't start after being left for 3-4 hours to cool down it will always start. When the bus doesn't start it does still turnover. He believes it to be some sort of electrical fault.

Anybody ever experience anything similar?

Tad bit late, but cowlitz, you think it could be a bad thermostat? If it is sending a hot signal, maybe it has a cut off to the fuel?? I am sure there is some way a mech motor has an overheat safety for starting.......

[Robin97396]

Wouldn't that have to be the fuel shut off valve? Considering you haven't changed the timing and it's still getting air while turning over, it's obviously not getting fuel. If there are safety's tied to the fuel shut off valve I can see your point. Has your bus been overheating? You don't seem to have mentioned overheating at all.
Since that engine cranks over it seem to me that a nice manual fuel shut off would possibly solve a couple problems, but then I don't know all this safety system stuff.

[cowlitzcoach]

It is possible there is an overheat alarm shut off that would prevent starting if it was too hot.

But the OP never said anything about overheating. The comment was restarting when hot.

I am inclined to think it is something in the fuel shut off system.

It would be interesting to see if when the starter turns and it won't start if there is any fuel going out to the injectors.

The Cat 3208T that I had that would randomly stop running and would be hard to start at times would shut off the fuel to the injectors for no apparent reason. Since the repair would require a trip to the Cat House on the hook I was looking at a minimum of $3K repair which I didn't want to incur.

[nwarner2010]

Interesting theories on the not starting when hot issue, when I get the bus I'll be able to do some better troubleshooting. The mechanic I spoke to on the phone didn't mention anything about the bus overheating. I'm really hoping its something simple. I'll have a 20hr drive (two days) in the bus driving it back, so I only plan on turning it off when I stop for the night to be on the safe side. According to the mechanic it should have no trouble starting up after sitting for the night.