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Old 05-12-2020, 11:27 AM   #1
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Partial dash removal

I know because of all the “ flexing” a bus encounters on the road, I have a design question. I am trying to create as much space as I can to install this Hoseline a/c unit. The stamped sheet metal brace that holds the fuse block and make shift glove box, is just bolted to the passenger side of the cab. My idea is to take the brace and bend it up and reattach it to the upper part of the dash and cut out all that is to the right of the light switch, cruise control, ignition switch, etc. Does anyone think I will be creating more of a problem with things flexing? I have already disconnected the fuse block to move in a location to make it better accessible.
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Old 05-12-2020, 03:11 PM   #2
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No opinions?
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Old 05-12-2020, 03:12 PM   #3
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I've never noticed the "flexing" everyone talks about with school buses.
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Old 05-12-2020, 03:39 PM   #4
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I've never noticed the "flexing" everyone talks about with school buses.
So flexing is a myth? I mean, I understand that it is only stamped sheet metal & Ivan understand that it is only so strong, I just didn’t want to cut something out and regret it later. I will be shoring it up fabricating some type of bracket for the A/C. I’m a firm believer in getting as many opinions on something before I make a move That I’m totally ignorant on the subject. Thanks CB.
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Old 05-12-2020, 03:49 PM   #5
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Phatman, I think you will be fine doing what you want to do especially if rebracing things. It could also be a ground connection for body parts if you think of it that way. Be nice to see your new heater sitting there for sure.


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Old 05-12-2020, 03:59 PM   #6
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I've removed all the plastic dash board / glove 'box' to the right of my steering wheel (sorry no pic) to better expose the fuse/relay panel where the bulkhead wiring comes in. It's such cheap & plastic I can't see putting it back. It has no structure of it's own -- I did have to drill a new hole for the ignition switch to have a secure mount. This does (currently) mean 'hotwiring' the bus would only take a quick minute but who steals buses...?

I really wanna rework the fuse/relay panel under the drivers window because it contains only about 4 switches that are actually ever gonna be used -- the rest is blanks for school bus options we all remove anyway...

BUT below that is one of my two remaining heater cores and the vibration/flexing/ or just bad karma cracked the metal mounts at the aft end that hold the weight of the heater core (1/3rd the size of my radiator).

If you see metal cracked -- you've seen a place where metal repeatedly flexed -- I can't tell you why it flexed there yet 'cause I haven't torn it all out to repair yet...

If you're installing something with any weight to it -- visualize the mounts being vibrated by that sexy diesel under the hood (or wherever your engine is...) whenever it's running and then add the additional bumps of going down the road... Just use a little angle iron on the mounts instead of folded sheetmetal like my heater core had and it should be fine.
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:08 PM   #7
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Phatman, I think you will be fine doing what you want to do especially if rebracing things. It could also be a ground connection for body parts if you think of it that way. Be nice to see your new heater sitting there for sure.


John
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:14 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by banman View Post
I've removed all the plastic dash board / glove 'box' to the right of my steering wheel (sorry no pic) to better expose the fuse/relay panel where the bulkhead wiring comes in. It's such cheap & plastic I can't see putting it back. It has no structure of it's own -- I did have to drill a new hole for the ignition switch to have a secure mount. This does (currently) mean 'hotwiring' the bus would only take a quick minute but who steals buses...?

I really wanna rework the fuse/relay panel under the drivers window because it contains only about 4 switches that are actually ever gonna be used -- the rest is blanks for school bus options we all remove anyway...

BUT below that is one of my two remaining heater cores and the vibration/flexing/ or just bad karma cracked the metal mounts at the aft end that hold the weight of the heater core (1/3rd the size of my radiator).

If you see metal cracked -- you've seen a place where metal repeatedly flexed -- I can't tell you why it flexed there yet 'cause I haven't torn it all out to repair yet...

If you're installing something with any weight to it -- visualize the mounts being vibrated by that sexy diesel under the hood (or wherever your engine is...) whenever it's running and then add the additional bumps of going down the road... Just use a little angle iron on the mounts instead of folded sheetmetal like my heater core had and it should be fine.
Thanks David. The only thing that is plastic on my dash is the bevel. I always over engineer everything thing I build. (Probably cause I have the ability to break a steel ball bearing.) when I removed the fuse block to relocate it, i noticed the ignition switch was loose. I removed it to take a look at it 5 of the 6 wires coming out of it had copper showing a lot. Looked like the insulation was peeled back so they could tap onto the wire. Big time short waiting to happen.
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:16 PM   #9
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buses shake badly at idle. But that's not the bus flexing.
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:50 PM   #10
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buses shake badly at idle. But that's not the bus flexing.
That makes sense Charlie. It’s gonna be interesting to how my build holds up. That’s why I loved Tango’s build. Engineering Marvel !!!
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:51 PM   #11
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He was the BEST.
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Old 05-12-2020, 08:16 PM   #12
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He was the BEST.
I miss having a rum & coke with him. Fantastic artist.
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Old 05-12-2020, 09:21 PM   #13
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our bus doesn't shake at idle. not even at 65 mph. really smooth actually.
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Old 05-12-2020, 09:44 PM   #14
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our bus doesn't shake at idle. not even at 65 mph. really smooth actually.
Yeah mine doesn't shake much. Pretty smooth as well
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Old 05-13-2020, 06:08 AM   #15
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so sitting at idle your bus doesn't "buzz" the mirrors, fenders, etc don't shake around?
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Old 05-13-2020, 06:26 AM   #16
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that brace you show looks to be part of how the chassis and body mate.. the "flexing" is in fact real.. usually its body flex, however there is a rigid connection between body and chassis.. part of that mate is at the floor.. another part of that mate is where the front body wall meats the chassis.. the plastic glovebox and fusebox surround are part of the chassis.. that stuff can all go without issue. however what I see in the one pic looks to be where the strut from the body cowling is bolted to the chassis cowling.. thats a part you dont want to disconnect.. while I dont believe your bus would fall apart if you did , you might flex enough to cause the seal (already delicate) between body and chassis to leak.. and no caulking it wont fix it..



id have to see better more of the whole area and what you want to do with it.. im assuming you want to hang the heater , A/C from the sash so its up and out of the way? on the right side where the glovebox is now?


if you are installing a heat / cool unit, you could possibly build it with ducting to allow you to remover the right side door heat / defrost unit and replace it with this system.. kind of like I did my driver heater on the dev.. I retained defrosting and heating because I replaced it and didnt just tear it out.. just a thought..



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Old 05-13-2020, 07:34 AM   #17
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so sitting at idle your bus doesn't "buzz" the mirrors, fenders, etc don't shake around?
Nope. International 3000RE. Solid bus
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Old 05-13-2020, 07:46 AM   #18
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of course its an RE.. you wont see things vibrate up front in an RE because the bus frame, body and materials is Flexing and absorbing the vibrations before they reach the driver cabin and front mirrors
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Old 05-13-2020, 08:15 AM   #19
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so sitting at idle your bus doesn't "buzz" the mirrors, fenders, etc don't shake around?
Install new motor mounts. They should just be pucks and easily swapped with a jack. I've changed a few that were splitting and the before and after were remarkable.

It sounds dumb, but being vibrated like that on a several hour road trip is exhausting for your muscles and joints.

As far as flexing is concerned, it's real. Drive one wheel up on a curb and hear the body creak in the process. Maybe not on a shorty, but a full sized bus will do it for sure.

Follow christopher's advice. Those seals leak and typically by the time you notice it, it's already a rusty mess that is super difficult to fix. I'd have to look at what you have in person to say for sure, but I would think you could cut that out, box around your unit with steel angle, weld it all tight, and be okay. But like I said, without being there, I'm not advising it.
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Old 05-13-2020, 08:22 AM   #20
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Where'd you get that ac unit at btw?

The spare engine I bought a month ago has a york 210 compressor mounted on it, and I have half the notion to install it on the bus to have road going ac.
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