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Old 08-01-2021, 11:48 AM   #41
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Oshpo is almost always much more expensive then the P&E, basically same product.

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Old 08-01-2021, 02:43 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Essentially no difference. They're both just diluted phosphoric acid and surfactants. According to their Safety Data Sheets, Kleen-Strip is 30%-60% concentrated while Ospho is 45%.
If this Kleen-Strip is being referenced, then this is a DIY savings hack if they’re the same product with slightly different dilutions. Ospho is over $30 a quart, while Kleen-Strip is $20 a gallon. I don’t know if Ospho is meant to be diluted or if it has good proprietary additives which reduce the number of steps for proper use.

Could I get a similar effect with diluted phosphoric acid (to not leave residues behind)?

I don’t want the product to eat the sacrificial anodes I already have in Inner Love (galvanized steel). How about Evapo-Rust?

I just thought why not combine active and passive rust protection? If I use a zinc infused primer it’s an extra layer of protection when I boondock on the Bonneville Salt Flats. Not a good idea if the zinc based primer becomes permeable as the zinc is used up.

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Old 08-01-2021, 03:34 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inner Love View Post
If this Kleen-Strip is being referenced, then this is a DIY savings hack if they’re the same product with slightly different dilutions. Ospho is over $30 a quart, while Kleen-Strip is $20 a gallon. I don’t know if Ospho is meant to be diluted or if it has good proprietary additives which reduce the number of steps for proper use.

Could I get a similar effect with diluted phosphoric acid (to not leave residues behind)?

I don’t want the product to eat the sacrificial anodes I already have in Inner Love (galvanized steel). How about Evapo-Rust?

I just thought why not combine active and passive rust protection? If I use a zinc infused primer it’s an extra layer of protection when I boondock on the Bonneville Salt Flats. Not a good idea if the zinc based primer becomes permeable as the zinc is used up.

The decisions I make today on Inner Love will be felt decades from now.
Where are you boondocking on the Salt Flats, it's not legally allowed.
Ospho is a brand name, it is 45% phosphoric acid. Kleen Strip Prep and Etch is also 45% phosphoric acid. The only difference to us and our use, is the price.
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Old 08-01-2021, 04:47 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Where are you boondocking on the Salt Flats, it's not legally allowed.
Ospho is a brand name, it is 45% phosphoric acid. Kleen Strip Prep and Etch is also 45% phosphoric acid. The only difference to us and our use, is the price.
On the BLM portions, in 1-2 years time.

Great to know. Someone has founded http://skoolie.wiki/, by the time you read this I will have already requested an account.

For some reason I have feelings for the dirt and dust that gets permanently encapsulated in paint and spray foam, hence my earlier desire to minimize it.
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:53 PM   #45
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Where are you boondocking on the Salt Flats, it's not legally allowed.

Citation please?
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Old 08-03-2021, 02:43 AM   #46
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Spraying phosporic acid on galvanized steel eats the good zinc I have on the body. So instead I am spot treating the rust with Loctite Naval Jelly using a small detail brush. Then Brush off the residue, before wiping everything down with acetone soaked clean microfiber cloths, before spraying my primer. Any chemicals left behind from the spot free rinse should be removed, maximizing primer adhesion.

Just to confirm, What is the strongest Rust-Oleum metal primer sold in spray cans? I don’t want to paint over the primer unless the primer doesn’t form a moisture barrier once cured.

The coal tar epoxy arrives Thursday, which means I’m doing the floor before the trip. Since I have patches of flaking metal on the floor, another trip to Harbor Freight is needed for an air needler. Fingers crossed none of those flakes are hiding holes.

Also, is there such a thing as an “forever” inert, high viscosity oil that creeps in gaps up to 1mm across? Or, what is the best oil / grease to put between lapped up riveted metal that won’t run at temps up to 250 degrees F? I want to avoid the greases / oils that become corrosive, break down, or attract water molecules over time. Is there a heated grease gun with a .1mm orifice for injecting grease into gaps and welds?

Lastly, I can’t afford to spend $100 this month to make 2 gallons of Sweet Project Farms rust killer, only to wash it away in 8 months when I begin underbody surface rust remediation. It’s not like I live in a high humidity state like he does. If I got some used motor oil from an oil change shop, mixed it with some dawn platinum, and sprayed that instead, could I get good enough underbody corrosion stoppage and protection for a season and a trip to the playa?
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Old 08-03-2021, 11:09 PM   #47
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I’m getting the spray foam installed this Saturday, this is the most important question from my last post: Is there such a thing as an “forever” inert, high viscosity oil that creeps in gaps up to 1mm across? Or, what is the best oil / grease to put between lapped up riveted metal that won’t run at temps up to 250 degrees F? I want to avoid the greases / oils that become corrosive, break down, or attract water molecules over time. Is there a heated grease gun with a .1mm orifice for injecting grease into gaps and welds?

For caulking body seams that would become an expressway for salt dust, what is best for longevity? Silicone? Roofers rubber? Lap sealant? Lastly, I’m Curious if there is a “hybrid” grease sealant that cures to something like a silicone or foam rubber?
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Old 08-04-2021, 09:44 PM   #48
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Question Urgent!

Urgent: I want to do proper prep on my galvanized steel. I’ve heard you can’t use acidic things like acetone and you need to use alkaline things. Aside from ammonia, what can I use to wipe down my galvanized steel?
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Old 08-07-2021, 06:38 PM   #49
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I wouldn’t hesitate to answer an urgent question if I was knowledgeable in it….
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Old 08-08-2021, 12:51 AM   #50
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Acetone would be fine for degreasing galvanized steel.

I would not spray oil or grease onto metal that you plan to paint in the near future. If you feel you have to do something use WD40 but not anywhere near where you will be sprayfoaming.

Automotive seam sealer would be the best product to seal seams in sheet metal.

From what I have read it is not recommended to sprayfoam directly to galvinized metal. It is better to prime the metal with paint that is listed for use on galvinized and then spray foam.

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Old 08-09-2021, 01:43 AM   #51
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Question Would any full synthetic grease / oil be good enough or is there something better?

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I would not spray oil or grease onto metal that you plan to paint in the near future.
Thanks for the response. I am still waiting to get my account approved on skoolie.wiki.

I wouldn’t spray oil or grease either.

I want to know what can be injected (using needled syringes), permanently between lapped up steel with gaps less than 1mm. Would any full synthetic grease / oil be good enough or is there something better?
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