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03-17-2016, 11:29 AM
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#21
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Docsgsxr
It would work unless you had a compressor or regulator issue. If you had it pressurized, went to the store and it leaked, it could flood your rig.
The 12v pump is more of an "on demand" style. It turns on when it senses a drop in pressure. Other than that specific time, it doesn't run.
Just a thought.......
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Doc, that's the same style of operation as and air solenoid valve. If it sensed and drop in pressure the valve kicks on the air compressor. In both the electric pump and air compressor, if there is a pressure drop due to a leak they both would kick on and stay on trying to re-pressurize the system. No difference.
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03-17-2016, 02:36 PM
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#22
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Valley - Arizona
Posts: 644
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
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True, but a pump doesn't put nearly the pressure a compressor would, or at least I don't think it would.
I am also comparing in my mind, drinking a milkshake through a straw using your mouth as a vacuum and pressurizing the same glass with an IR, 80 gal, 175 psi, 3 phase compressor, wide open so you don't have to apply human force!!!
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03-17-2016, 02:47 PM
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#23
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Docsgsxr
True, but a pump doesn't put nearly the pressure a compressor would, or at least I don't think it would.
I am also comparing in my mind, drinking a milkshake through a straw using your mouth as a vacuum and pressurizing the same glass with an IR, 80 gal, 175 psi, 3 phase compressor, wide open so you don't have to apply human force!!!
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That's what the regulator valve is for, to reduce the pressure so it isn't too much. You could have 1000psi (exaggeration of course) coming into the valve but if it was set at 50psi that's all that would be going out to the system.
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03-17-2016, 05:48 PM
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#24
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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Just wondering, isn't normal city water set at about 7lbs.?
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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03-17-2016, 06:33 PM
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#25
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: onboard
Posts: 235
Year: 97
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: BadMuthaFuka
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: All of us
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not sure but my take is that water pump puts much more energybehind the water than an air backed system. water stores much more energy when compressed than air, if not then hydraulics would be....airdraulics? plus wouldn't you have to worry x2 about leaks? after you pressured it up, you'd have the entire tank to faucet at pressure, even fill tube?? instead of only the line from pump to accumulator to faucet/s. what about venting when filling the tank of air backed system??
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03-17-2016, 07:32 PM
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#26
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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I started a whole long message and ran out of battery, sorry?
1 or 10 pumps will not change the pressure.
Whatever your highest pump pressure is whether it is in the bus or under the bus is what your incoming pressure is.
If your pump does 60-psi after all of Your piping size/twist/turns/elbows/types of sink faucets/shower valve and shower head, water heater and whatever you will lose pressure.
Most city water is between 40-60
IMO put a shut off valve in your tank vent line and once the tank is full close the valve and force the water up to your fixtures that way your pump is primed and the air is out and you know the water is there.
Most 12v water pumps have a check valve and if working properly they will not let the water drain back to wherever.
With that being said wherever your pump is you need a drain in the lowest point on the leaving side of the pump to drain the house side of the pump because of the check valve/back check does not drain anything after the pump and I can only reccomend a tee with a valve to vent the entering side of the pump or the piping will hold the water in a vacuum and won't drain back to your tank. On the leaving side you can open the fixtures to vent/break the vacuum but because of the check valve in/at the pump you need a dedicated drain at the lowest point. Probably at the pump.
Might be good I got cut off earlier
Because of my work I was a lot more technical
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03-17-2016, 07:33 PM
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#27
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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I started a whole long message and ran out of battery, sorry?
1 or 10 pumps will not change the pressure.
Whatever your highest pump pressure is whether it is in the bus or under the bus is what your incoming pressure is.
If your pump does 60-psi after all of Your piping size/twist/turns/elbows/types of sink faucets/shower valve and shower head, water heater and whatever you will lose pressure.
Most city water is between 40-60
IMO put a shut off valve in your tank vent line and once the tank is full close the valve and force the water up to your fixtures that way your pump is primed and the air is out and you know the water is there.
Most 12v water pumps have a check valve and if working properly they will not let the water drain back to wherever.
With that being said wherever your pump is you need a drain in the lowest point on the leaving side of the pump to drain the house side of the pump because of the check valve/back check does not drain anything after the pump and I can only reccomend a tee with a valve to vent the entering side of the pump or the piping will hold the water in a vacuum and won't drain back to your tank. On the leaving side you can open the fixtures to vent/break the vacuum but because of the check valve in/at the pump you need a dedicated drain at the lowest point. Probably at the pump.
Might be good I got cut off earlier
Because of my work I was a lot more technical
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03-17-2016, 09:22 PM
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#28
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skoolydoo
Just wondering, isn't normal city water set at about 7lbs.?
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Our is 40 psi.
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03-17-2016, 09:45 PM
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#29
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T
Our is 40 psi.
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It could be city Gas I was thinking of.
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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03-17-2016, 09:58 PM
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#30
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Natural gas is usually about 4 lbs. Incidentally most beer taps are set at between 4 and 7 pounds, and most of us are familiar with a trickle the speed of a beer tap. It's a good way to conserve water, but a icky way to take a shower.
I think you guys are thinking about one of those systems that pressurizes the steel or fiberglass tank, rather than your whole water supply?
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03-18-2016, 09:41 AM
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#31
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Valley - Arizona
Posts: 644
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgorila1
That's what the regulator valve is for, to reduce the pressure so it isn't too much. You could have 1000psi (exaggeration of course) coming into the valve but if it was set at 50psi that's all that would be going out to the system.
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I understand that, but wouldn't trust it. To each their own!
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03-18-2016, 02:04 PM
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#32
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I find people don't leave the water running if it's on a hand pump. It's not perfect but it's simple and should last a very long time.
Beyond that at times I do use pepsi ball lock kegs for water because I can pressurize the keg with my co2 tank and regulators, without leaks. The kegs are also pretty handy for beer. Don't reinvent the wheel.
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03-18-2016, 02:57 PM
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#33
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Do those work like corny kegs? Can you brew right in them?
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03-18-2016, 03:15 PM
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#34
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Exactly. You can pick them up fairly cheap locally, as opposed to buying online.
Just be aware there are two types. "Pin lock" and "ball lock" kegs. Both look the same and are commonly used for soft drinks. The kegs are actually the same, it's the quick connects that vary on either pin lock or ball lock kegs. Obviously you want either all pin lock connectors or all ball lock connectors, because they are not compatible with each other.
Some people claim to ferment in the kegs. I prefer using glass during fermentation.
There isn't any reason you couldn't use compressed air from your bus to pressurize your kegs, but you're obviously going to need a regulator.
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03-18-2016, 04:32 PM
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#35
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Hand pumps have been a standard on sailboats for a hundred years or more.
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03-18-2016, 07:26 PM
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#36
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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It's not fancy but it's going to beat the heck out of blue jugs. I'm kind of attracted to the fact that visitors can't leave the water running. I think it will work fine, but I'll know better by next year at this time.
It was suggested that I won't be able to pump the water while taking a shower. Luckily I usually have one free hand while in the shower. This is not headed in a constructive direction. Later.
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03-19-2016, 09:53 PM
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#37
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
There isn't any reason you couldn't use compressed air from your bus to pressurize your kegs, but you're obviously going to need a regulator.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
It's not fancy but it's going to beat the heck out of blue jugs. I'm kind of attracted to the fact that visitors can't leave the water running. I think it will work fine, but I'll know better by next year at this time.
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Boy, I'm not sure where to put this. You're going to pressurize the beer delivery and hand-pump the water. Talk about having your priorities straight!
"I did it MYYYYY WAAAAAAY!"
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03-19-2016, 10:27 PM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I always seem to have a backup system. I'm not pressurizing my drum of spring water, because that has a hand pump on it which works impressively well. I'm pressurizing my kegs. I can also put water in my kegs but a nice wheat beer is favored over water. Granny used to wash her hair with beer, but I take it internally for medicinal purposes only.
Apparently you're also a beer drinker so the though of water coming out of a beer tap doesn't quite sound natural to you. Any confusion? You can come over and drink as much spring water as you like!
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03-20-2016, 12:09 PM
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#39
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SW New Hampshire
Posts: 1,334
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No; I hadn't picked up on your putting water in your beer kegs. No reason not to; it's as good a way as any to deliver water. Make sure your tap handles are properly labeled.
My grandmother was a teetotaler who used whiskey, honey, and lemon juice in equal proportions to cure any number of ailments, but washed her hair conventionally.
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03-20-2016, 01:03 PM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I'm thinking your granny smelled better than my granny.
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