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09-29-2019, 09:11 PM
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#21
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
Because of all the added complexity of stepping down to 12V for all the load devices not available in higher DC increments.
Avoid inverters like the plague if living off-grid for extended periods on (mostly-) solar
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My battery bank is 24v. The only thing that I can't run on 24v is my webasto. The unit is available in 24v but I wound up with a 12v unit. So, I am going to have to buy a $15 24v to 12v converter for it. Cheap and easy.
Lights, water pump, inverter and USB charge ports are all readily available.
It would be wonderful if I could run everything I need directly from the batteries. That would save me the inherent losses that the inverter brings.
Unfortunately I have a few items that require 120v. Without an inverter I would have to run the generator to watch TV. Not ideal....
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09-29-2019, 09:15 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Yes 24V is a lot more widespread than 48V, that's for sure. Is the alt & engine also?
Just saying my preference would be to shop for DC powered screen devices.
Nearly all electronics these days use a power brick that outputs DC to the unit itself, just need to match that, V/A/pin size/polarity.
Hardly remember what "a TV" is these days, do you mean using an antenna?
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09-29-2019, 09:28 PM
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#23
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
Yes 24V is a lot more widespread than 48V, that's for sure. Is the alt & engine also?
Just saying my preference would be to shop for DC powered screen devices.
Nearly all electronics these days use a power brick that outputs DC to the unit itself, just need to match that, V/A/pin size/polarity.
Hardly remember what "a TV" is these days, do you mean using an antenna?
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I have looked hard for a TV that I can run on DC. I found a handful. All small TV's. 17"-24". And.... I almost got thrown out of Best Buy. I was trying to see if any of their TV's used wall warts. The manager took exception...
Bottom line, I want a 40" TV and I cannot find a DC version. I do occasionally run my coffee maker and microwave from the inverter.
A funny: I saw an adult for this amazing device that will give you free TV. I received an excited email from one of the kids (27) giving me the scoop on this breakthrough device.
You simply connect it to your TV shazam free TV. I nearly fell off of my chair laughing. I promptly emailed her about the amazing new solar clothes dryer.... Grandma called it a clothes line.
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09-29-2019, 09:53 PM
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#24
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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09-29-2019, 10:07 PM
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#25
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
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My Google Foo is failing me. I spent a significant of time searching and missed that one.
Unfortunately it looks like it uses significantly more power than the Samsung.
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09-29-2019, 10:32 PM
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#26
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Hmm. Hope you aren't going off plate ratings?
Only way to really tell is compare measured Wh over a period of time.
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09-29-2019, 10:48 PM
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#27
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
Hmm. Hope you aren't going off plate ratings?
Only way to really tell is compare measured Wh over a period of time.
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You are right.
I should invent a device to do that.
I could call it "kill-a-watt meter"
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09-29-2019, 10:56 PM
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#28
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Exactly. Know a good one not too pricey for DC coulomb counting?
Two-way, ideally inline type, if shunt required then able to be calibrated for various ampacities?
So much cheap-chinese I don't want to buy a dozen just to find a couple trustworthy ones.
This one https://powerwerx.com/watt-meter-ana...e-dc-powerpole I at least trust the seller
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10-03-2019, 06:38 PM
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#29
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john61ct
Exactly. Know a good one not too pricey for DC coulomb counting?
Two-way, ideally inline type, if shunt required then able to be calibrated for various ampacities?
So much cheap-chinese I don't want to buy a dozen just to find a couple trustworthy ones.
This one https://powerwerx.com/watt-meter-ana...e-dc-powerpole I at least trust the seller
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I don't. The unit that you posted the link to looks pretty slick.
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10-03-2019, 07:25 PM
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#30
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Athens, TN
Posts: 1,574
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International RE
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
Bottom line, I want a 40" TV and I cannot find a DC version. I do occasionally run my coffee maker and microwave from the inverter.
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I was looking for a DC touchscreen monitor, similar requirements. They can be found, you just have to know which screens come with a brick.
I chose one without a brick, opened it up. Thought I could remove/replace the internal power supply with a DC-DC converter. Power supply is on the same board as the HDMI/DP/etc decoder. Bah. Don't want to poke around with the multimeter, I put it back together. Bought a small 300W PSW inverter for the monitor, cut the cord and wired it into the DC panel. Its a nice little redundancy just in case, and I don't have to run the big 8kw that draws a constant 40-50W buzzing idle all the time.
I will be ordering more of the little inverters, and running 12V/24V DC here and there in case I need to use them. If I want to use the kitchen or do laundry, I'll fire up the 8kw.
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10-03-2019, 09:14 PM
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#31
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Culpeper, Virginia
Posts: 302
Chassis: Step Van
Engine: Prefer Diesel
Rated Cap: 14'-16' Step Van
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Insignia, Hisense, and Spekter are brands to look at. They are fairly cheap, and many use the 120to12v power brick. I spent a good deal of time at Best Buy scoping out the backs of tvs for this very reason myself. I went with an Insignia 46" 4K which uses this set up.
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10-05-2019, 06:05 PM
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#32
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: the Missouri Ozarks
Posts: 258
Year: 1997
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: 466e
Rated Cap: its Yuge
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I agree with Steve on the 4 parallel 12vs being sub optimal, but from what I understand, it just means less longevity out of your bank. If I were in your spot having already purchased a 12v inverter, I would keep what you have all leads equal length and to a bus bar like somebody else mentioned.
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10-05-2019, 06:11 PM
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#33
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: the Missouri Ozarks
Posts: 258
Year: 1997
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: 466e
Rated Cap: its Yuge
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What size cable are you using to connect the bank to the inverter? I'd say it needs to be 4/0 and fused appropriately.
My panels had a sticker that said what size fuse. To use. 40 amp too big to protect 10awg wire
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10-05-2019, 06:23 PM
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#34
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2018
Location: the Missouri Ozarks
Posts: 258
Year: 1997
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: 466e
Rated Cap: its Yuge
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Pic of my setup if that helps any.
I chose to use online fuses on the panels due to cost. And combine them at a breaker.
Batteries come in at the bottom there. Negative at the shunt and positive to a switch. Then to bus bars. Then each to the charge controller. The inverter. And the 24v to12v converter.
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10-05-2019, 06:32 PM
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#35
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
First thing that caught my attention Was The four 12 volt batteries in parallel.
Not a good idea unless you like buying batteries.
There is a great stickie over on solarpaneltalk.com that explains it better than I can.
I will see if I can find the link and post it here.
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did you get my message Steve?
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10-06-2019, 11:40 AM
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#36
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
did you get my message Steve?
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RE:Chains? Yes. I still have them.
It was a profile comments though.
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10-06-2019, 01:01 PM
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#37
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Almost There
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Canada
Posts: 80
Year: 1994
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Thomas Vista
Engine: DT 408 6.7L
Rated Cap: 72
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Well this thread has me rethinking my battery bank
At the risk of sounding completely unknowledgeable (I am desperately trying to put together my electrical info)
Could someone knowledgeable on battery banks give me an example of what a properly set up 12V bank would be? I was planning on using 4 200AH 12V batteries in parallel, I am seeing the issues with this as I read about balancing etc.
I had thought using identical cable lengths, battery balancers and identical batteries as well as running the positive from one end of the bank and ground from the opposite would alleviate this problem, is this wrong? (I have a feeling now it is, and I know I have much more learning to do)
So assuming I am looking to have a bank using AGM with 800AH capacity at 12V, how would you set up the bank to ensure longevity?
I need to stay at 12V for my bank as I have already purchased many 12v accessories.
This is just to get me some examples of what the "right" way to do this would be in peoples opinion so I can have some starting models to continue researching my setup
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10-06-2019, 01:20 PM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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You can use 6v batteries to get the 12v. My Interstate 6v batteries are 215ah.
Less than $100 at Costco.
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10-06-2019, 01:51 PM
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#39
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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This gives a pretty decent rundown about balancing a battery bank. There's another site that's frequently posted, but I can't recall it right now. Other, more knowledgeable, people might give their thoughts too.
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10-06-2019, 02:19 PM
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#40
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Site Team
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Nanaimo, British Columbia
Posts: 429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru
There's another site that's frequently posted, but I can't recall it right now.
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You thinking of Handy Bob? There’s a lot of good information buried in there, along with a hefty dose of curmudgeon that I enjoy.
https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/
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