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Old 06-30-2019, 02:05 PM   #21
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I had custom fabricated rib extensions/hat channel formed to my specs. Cost a bit over 900 Canadian. Rented scaffolding, used a few boards hanging around, and a handful of sawzall blades.

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Old 07-29-2020, 12:31 PM   #22
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thank you ECCB
New to this, hope it sends.
Was wondering if you could send me more information on materials. Or direct me to a place where I could find. Its a 2007 Blue Bird/Flat Nose and am' going to be lifting the roof 18-24".
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Old 07-29-2020, 12:37 PM   #23
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What do you need, Kevin?
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Old 07-29-2020, 12:39 PM   #24
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I would need to figure out what I would need for the rib extensions. Not sure what the measurements of the ribs are but I'm assuming they are all generally the same. Quick note, this forum is super helpful.
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Old 07-29-2020, 01:59 PM   #25
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You'd probably need to measure what you have. The ribs are 14ga, but the measurement I couldn't tell you. The bus I did was a Ward/AmTran.
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Old 01-22-2022, 11:52 AM   #26
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Hi RV community. I am in the process of raising my roof on my skoolie. Do anyone have Wess Lewis’ information? I do not know how to contact him. I know his company is Transcend Existence. However, it has no contact information. I want Wess to do the roof raise job. Please help! Thanks!
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Old 01-22-2022, 12:07 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mr. Dude View Post
Hi RV community. I am in the process of raising my roof on my skoolie. Do anyone have Wess Lewis’ information? I do not know how to contact him. I know his company is Transcend Existence. However, it has no contact information. I want Wess to do the roof raise job. Please help! Thanks!
I don't know that he's active here on Skoolie.net - but in the meantime, until you get in touch with him, here's a series of videos showing the steps involved in a roof raise.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...9pxqxRelSBl7uW

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Old 05-04-2022, 02:49 PM   #28
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So quick question for the community... I'm in the final stages of raise prep and we were discussing the many numerous rivets along the drip edge of the ceiling panels.


Instead of removing all of the rivets, is it possible/good idea to cut the interior folds along the black lines and remove the two rivets that join this piece with the channels, which should allow space for new sheet insertion/overlap, then I can use a product like adiseal adhesive sealant and rivets to hang new sheets and then go back and weld new flat stock over interior cuts to put structure back into folded drip edge?
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Old 05-04-2022, 03:16 PM   #29
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So quick question for the community... I'm in the final stages of raise prep and we were discussing the many numerous rivets along the drip edge of the ceiling panels.


Instead of removing all of the rivets, is it possible/good idea to cut the interior folds along the black lines and remove the two rivets that join this piece with the channels, which should allow space for new sheet insertion/overlap, then I can use a product like adiseal adhesive sealant and rivets to hang new sheets and then go back and weld new flat stock over interior cuts to put structure back into folded drip edge?

If you cut that section out you could be affecting the structural integrity of the roof. There is a reason why the ribs are welded there.

What I did on my roof raise was to remove the three rivets at the hat channel, slightly pried open the space between the drip rail and inside sheet metal then I slid the sheet metal up under the drip edge.

Then to hold it up I used a self tapping screw in the rivet hole where I removed the 3 rivets.

two screws, one at each rib should be enough to hold the sheet metal up in place while you work on installing/securing the rest of the panel.

If you can zoom in on the pic I uploaded you can see the sheet metal screws. They were replaced with rivets when I got to that particular rib.
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Old 05-04-2022, 09:21 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
If you cut that section out you could be affecting the structural integrity of the roof. There is a reason why the ribs are welded there.

What I did on my roof raise was to remove the three rivets at the hat channel, slightly pried open the space between the drip rail and inside sheet metal then I slid the sheet metal up under the drip edge.

Then to hold it up I used a self tapping screw in the rivet hole where I removed the 3 rivets.

two screws, one at each rib should be enough to hold the sheet metal up in place while you work on installing/securing the rest of the panel.

If you can zoom in on the pic I uploaded you can see the sheet metal screws. They were replaced with rivets when I got to that particular rib.

I like it. thank you ewo1.
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