Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-16-2017, 07:30 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 64
Year: 1995
Engine: 12 valve 8.3L Cummins
Resealing Windows Before Subfloor

Like many on the forum we discovered that the bus windows are taking on water during heavy rain. This is partly because some of the seals have been broken from me removing the windows while taking the side panels down and partly because the bus is currently very unlevel.

My thought is that before I lay the subflloor I should pull each window and scrape all the existing sealant off, clean the contact areas real good with mineral spirits and then apply new sealer.

Does this sound like a good technique? Am I missing any important steps?
Lastly, what do people recommend for sealing? I've been reading older posts that touch on this but saw some warnings about using products that will make removing the windows later on an impossible task.

How would something like this work?

Thanks!
brightond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 08:09 AM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 64
Year: 1995
Engine: 12 valve 8.3L Cummins
I forgot to mention the gasket that goes around the window as well




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
brightond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 08:30 AM   #3
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Lake geneva Wisconsin
Posts: 199
Year: 93
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 idi
100% silicone will work thats what i used. Its much cheaper and has a 25 year warranty. Or you could look at something like osi which is a poly caulk. It took 12 tubes to do my 22 windows
Greatestrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 08:44 AM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 64
Year: 1995
Engine: 12 valve 8.3L Cummins
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatestrr View Post
100% silicone will work thats what i used. Its much cheaper and has a 25 year warranty. Or you could look at something like osi which is a poly caulk. It took 12 tubes to do my 22 windows


Thanks for that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
brightond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 09:33 AM   #5
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Lake geneva Wisconsin
Posts: 199
Year: 93
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 idi
Oh i also used that foam weather strip thats sticky on one side i put that around first then laid a bead of silicone all around then put the window back in. Also i really built up the bottom with silicone. On my bus the water would roll off the drip edge above the window. Land right on the sill and come in so i built it up on the bottom. Think i finally got it after much water came in on my finished floor and walls. I will probably have to replace some of the walls cause water damage. So make sure your windows are leak free, before proceeding. Just a word of caution
Greatestrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 09:41 AM   #6
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oregon/Philippines
Posts: 1,660
I would ash can those windows and put some real rv windows in, and also skin the areas that u dont want a window in. is easy work.
__________________
Jesus Christ... Conversion in progress.
chev49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 09:42 AM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 64
Year: 1995
Engine: 12 valve 8.3L Cummins
Quote:
Originally Posted by chev49 View Post
I would ash can those windows and put some real rv windows in, and also skin the areas that u dont want a window in. is easy work.
How much would you budget I'd need to pay for windows?
brightond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 09:43 AM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 64
Year: 1995
Engine: 12 valve 8.3L Cummins
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatestrr View Post
Oh i also used that foam weather strip thats sticky on one side i put that around first then laid a bead of silicone all around then put the window back in. Also i really built up the bottom with silicone. On my bus the water would roll off the drip edge above the window. Land right on the sill and come in so i built it up on the bottom. Think i finally got it after much water came in on my finished floor and walls. I will probably have to replace some of the walls cause water damage. So make sure your windows are leak free, before proceeding. Just a word of caution
Thanks! That's good info. Curious what you think you spent on materials to seal the windows.
brightond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 09:51 AM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oregon/Philippines
Posts: 1,660
Quote:
Originally Posted by brightond View Post
How much would you budget I'd need to pay for windows?
The rv window costs will vary according to where u get them. for example, a trailer repair place, maybe a wrecking yard, or like I do... from craigslist of people who are making flat bed trailers out of older rvs. Just dont use the really old ones. there are many nice window sets available that way, and often the windows are the same pattern from one rv to another brand. On my thomas re, I got over 30 windows so not only did i have multiple sizes for my needs, but my brother used some of the left over ones for the travel trailer he built. I dont think i paid anything for them, but got from several trailers and rvs. I also got sinks, showers bath tubs, cabinets and the like.
__________________
Jesus Christ... Conversion in progress.
chev49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 10:05 AM   #10
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
If you can access an RV wrecking yard you may be able to find some quality, double pane windows on the cheap. Just a thought.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 01:15 PM   #11
Traveling
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
If you can access an RV wrecking yard you may be able to find some quality, double pane windows on the cheap. Just a thought.
...or an RV Dealer Lot ...late at night.
Rusty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 02:15 PM   #12
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 22,021
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
If you're not SET on keeping the school bus windows do what I and others have done, and eliminate them with steel sheets and rv windows as mentioned.
Still gotta panel mine back in, but my factory windows weren't even salvageable so rv windows were always the plan.
Keeping the bus windows on my shorty since there are less of them to have to seal up, and its more a daily driver/weekend cruiser.
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 02:44 PM   #13
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Lake geneva Wisconsin
Posts: 199
Year: 93
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 idi
With the silicone and foam weather strip, I'd say right around $100. I looked at r.v windows even thought of putting regular house windows in. It was way more than $100.
Greatestrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 06:20 PM   #14
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 22,021
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatestrr View Post
With the silicone and foam weather strip, I'd say right around $100. I looked at r.v windows even thought of putting regular house windows in. It was way more than $100.
Sure- you can seal up the leaky windows for LESS than $100. Or you can totally build it so that you have screened, insulated windows strategically placed where you like them, and better insulation.
Some folks build weekend campers, some folks build their own motorhomes.
Depends on how one wants to use their bus, and how much work they're willing to put it.
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2017, 09:02 PM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 64
Year: 1995
Engine: 12 valve 8.3L Cummins
Thanks for the input.

Unfortunately, it's not in the budget (money or time) to hunt down RV windows and have the whole bus skinned. I am though planning on doing the interior build so I can access the windows by removing a panel. Let me know if you have any advice on that plan
brightond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2017, 08:11 AM   #16
Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Lake geneva Wisconsin
Posts: 199
Year: 93
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 idi
ECCB your exactly right and i agree. I wish i had the money to do that. Last night it rained real real hard. I have 3 or 4 windows that still have minor leaks. No idea where the water is coming from. I'm considering adding onto the drip edge to make it bigger. During light rain i get zero water so for the heavy blowing rain i need a bigger drip edge to get the water further away from the window. How it is now the water rolls off the drip edge right onto the window during hard rain. Otherwise I'd have to totally caulk them shut. I plan on being in warm weather so don't like the idea of caulking them shut.
Greatestrr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2017, 08:13 AM   #17
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
General rule is "all school bus windows leak". That said, re-sealing them will help a bunch. The original sealant dries up, shrinks, cracks and lets water in. The best material for sealing them is an OEM grade automotive urethane Seal Sealer. A little pricey but then so is the floor and everything inside. Next best will probably be the 100% silicones.

But be aware that there is still the probability that you'll get some leakage around any glass that moves, especially in a driving rain at highway speed. The only real solution to that is to permanently seal the glass closed.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2017, 07:24 AM   #18
Bus Nut
 
tobeamiss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 737
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
In my opinion, Henrys 212 is the best stuff. It's clear and tougher than tough. AMOF I used it to seal/fill the small holes left behind on the floor from removing the seats. I have a bunch of small nickel size plugs that formed with the 212 and I trip over them all the time lol! 10 months down the road and they're still solid and would be pretty hard to remove. So if it's 100% silicone you're looking for, this is the stuff.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
__________________
oh yes she did!
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/to...-it-16557.html
tobeamiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2017, 09:55 AM   #19
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 35



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yellowbus1984 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2017, 02:13 PM   #20
Bus Nut
 
tobeamiss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 737
Year: 2002
Coachwork: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Did you do the windows yet?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
__________________
oh yes she did!
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/to...-it-16557.html
tobeamiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×