Roof hatches: substitutes and replacements

[o1marc]

I'm planning on covering the 24" hole with tinted Lexan and then mounting a 14" Fantastic Fan in the center. This will allow more tinted ambient light in.

Just metal to metal will not cause galvanic corrosion, it needs and electrolyte as a third factor to start the process. Do a search and read for yourself. I would have no problem attaching aluminum patch to steel sheet if they are both painted or sealed first. It's more common on boats due to the salt water electrolyte.

[01ThomasMVP]

I built my own, but I'm new to all this so not sure if its gonna hold up over time.

[Ravendancer]

Agreed about the box stores. Trying to get this done while working full time, so getting a little antcy

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Just metal to metal will not cause galvanic corrosion, it needs and electrolyte as a third factor to start the process. Do a search and read for yourself. I would have no problem attaching aluminum patch to steel sheet if they are both painted or sealed first. It's more common on boats due to the salt water electrolyte.

Fixed.


YOu make a sammich of steel and aluminum without or with scratches and see what you get in a yr with just rain water, dust, bus dirt, etc. The water that gets trapped between the layers isn't going to stay lab grade neutral for long. Is it going to rust thru the Fe or the Al even at 18 gauge in a yr? Not very likely but who builds a bus to last only 5 yrs or 10 yrs?


Sheet steel is easy enough to get. Why bother unless you have free Al on hand?

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

Fixed.


YOu make a sammich of steel and aluminum without or with scratches and see what you get in a yr with just rain water, dust, bus dirt, etc. The water that gets trapped between the layers isn't going to stay lab grade neutral for long. Is it going to rust thru the Fe or the Al even at 18 gauge in a yr? Not very likely but who builds a bus to last only 5 yrs or 10 yrs?


Sheet steel is easy enough to get. Why bother unless you have free Al on hand?

That is what I meant, there's a proper solution to every issue.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by o1marc

That is what I meant, there's a proper solution to every issue.

There certainly is a proper solution to every issue. For every proper solution there are dozens of improper ones too. Skoolie folks don't always do what's best when what's easiest is staring them in the face.


Drill a few holes and rivet together, use a few self tapping screws, etc. when using the pre-treated metal and it is no longer pre-treated where the fasteners went thru. Slap a couple of pieces of sheet metal up there and just glue/bond it on and you could have water getting in there and/or trapped humidity between the layers.


Just saying sheet steel will cost less and then you don't have to worry about dissimilar metals. You'll still have the same worries with fasteners and rust between layers tho.

[Ravendancer]

Thanks for all the suggestions.
Decided on using what I have which is some clear poly honeycomb sheeting. Light in fan on.

It is easy to be distracted while doing as much as possible before winter.

Back up cam installed! Check.
Form in spots needing it and rust removal! Check. Sanding roof and getting ready to paint after fan installation.

Peace.

[Marceps]

Aluminum and steel are galvanically compatible, depending on the types.

Alternate link.

Originally Posted by 01ThomasMVP

I built my own, but I'm new to all this so not sure if its gonna hold up over time.Attachment 25212

Interesting! Has it weathered any storms? Did you enlarge the opening?

[01ThomasMVP]

Its showing a few signs of weather, and we have had some bad weather these past couple months. No leaks tho. all I did was square out the rounded edges. It's still the same size as the original emergency exit.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by Marceps

Aluminum and steel are galvanically compatible, depending on the types.

Alternate link.

According to your link, you want to keep it under .15V. The only place I see that on your chart is AL 2000 series (whatever that is) and plain carbon/low alloy steel. I don't know if mild steel (sheet metal) is plain or low alloy or not.


Everything else looks like it's .15V or higher.

[naes14]

I have been looking into getting a couple replacements from SafeFleet. I have been calling around to local dealers for more info but I'd like to replace mine with these.



They are for transit buses but I'm pretty confident I can fit them to my bus. I like the idea of still being able to pop em up for ventilation. It is made of 4mm tempered glass with gray tint featuring an 18% light transmission.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by naes14

It is made of 4mm tempered glass with gray tint featuring an 18% light transmission.

Sounds classy (and pricey).

[Rovobay]

Originally Posted by naes14

I have been looking into getting a couple replacements from SafeFleet. I have been calling around to local dealers for more info but I'd like to replace mine with these.



They are for transit buses but I'm pretty confident I can fit them to my bus. I like the idea of still being able to pop em up for ventilation. It is made of 4mm tempered glass with gray tint featuring an 18% light transmission.

got my stock ones out of my bus just sitting on the side of my house if you are interested.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Rovobay

got my stock ones out of my bus just sitting on the side of my house if you are interested.

Me too. But they do leak!