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01-30-2018, 02:23 PM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 111
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Screws and Rivits
While looking at pics and watching school bus conversion videos I see people removing rivits from walls and ceiling. All the interior in my bus is screwed together and seems as though it came that way. Do some come with screws instead of rivits?
Doesn’t make a difference to me just curious.
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01-30-2018, 02:33 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRRVBUS
While looking at pics and watching school bus conversion videos I see people removing rivits from walls and ceiling. All the interior in my bus is screwed together and seems as though it came that way. Do some come with screws instead of rivits?
Doesn’t make a difference to me just curious.
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Thomas buses used a lot of screws. I think when it gets down to removing/replacing 500 screws or 500 rivets, you'll wish to God they were screws.
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01-30-2018, 02:50 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,056
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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As he said. My Thomas was all screws on the inside. Screws are easier than rivets to be sure, that doesn't mean they are easy! Even with a good impact drill you're going to fatigue pretty fast working overhead.
My BlueBIrd is all rivets. I'll be starting that part this weekend....
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01-30-2018, 02:50 PM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
Thomas buses used a lot of screws. I think when it gets down to removing/replacing 500 screws or 500 rivets, you'll wish to God they were screws.
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Screws are easier to remove
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01-30-2018, 03:00 PM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,829
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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My 92 Ward had rivets. My 98 and 04 AmTran/IC's came with screws.
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01-30-2018, 04:18 PM
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#6
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 111
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I can’t wait to start on the gutting process. It needed a PMD and the injector return lines were leaking so I’ve been concentrating on the mechanical part o things.
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01-30-2018, 04:20 PM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdawgsfanasty
Screws are easier to remove
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Definitely. Should be a breeze, I’ve been told more than once that I’ve got a few screws loose already
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01-30-2018, 04:50 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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All screws in my Thomas.
I bought a Porter Cable Impact Driver .... and a lot of Philips #2 impact bits.
There is a knack. Start the driver very slowly. Let it hammer the screw loose without the bit slipping, then hit the trigger harder.
In the entire interior removal I have had maybe 15 screws, out of many, many hundreds, that refused to budge. Of those maybe 12 succumbed to an angle-grinder slot and large screwdriver, and about three needed drilling or chiseling out.
Rivets would have taken a lot longer.
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01-30-2018, 04:57 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,056
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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If your screws are the same as in my Thomas, #2 was the wrong bit. #3 is the correct bit for mine and will pull them all out with no damage to screws or the driver bit.
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01-30-2018, 05:34 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown
If your screws are the same as in my Thomas, #2 was the wrong bit. #3 is the correct bit for mine and will pull them all out with no damage to screws or the driver bit.
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Most of mine are #2, #3 won't even go in.
In a few places they used larger screws, they are #3.
#3 will always slip much less, it has more meat to get hold of.
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01-30-2018, 06:51 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRRVBUS
Definitely. Should be a breeze, I’ve been told more than once that I’ve got a few screws loose already
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Lol...lost most of my screws...damn it I don't need these nuts now....
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01-30-2018, 07:08 PM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 3,154
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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If you want to use the NUTS then you don't need to worry about the screws you lost?
But if your screwing everything it is probably cheaper to lose the nuts?
For most of my screws a #3 was to big and a #2 was a little small but only because the tip was a little to long for the number 2 to fully seat.
I quit going through bits after I cut a little bit of the tip off of the 2 and for the ones that still wanted to hang on a few whacks with an old screw driver and hammer hammer used like a center punch would brea them loose.
Wear protection when working with your tool.
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01-30-2018, 07:12 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223
If you want to use the NUTS then you don't need to worry about the screws you lost?
But if your screwing everything it is probably cheaper to lose the nuts?
For most of my screws a #3 was to big and a #2 was a little small but only because the tip was a little to long for the number 2 to fully seat.
I quit going through bits after I cut a little bit of the tip off of the 2 and for the ones that still wanted to hang on a few whacks with an old screw driver and hammer hammer used like a center punch would brea them loose.
Wear protection when working with your tool.
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I think we're on the same page...if so...you out did me...
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01-30-2018, 07:21 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 3,154
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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I do try a little humor every now and then while at work.
Same page. Yeah I caught where you were going but was only trying to expand on your quote not out do you.
I saved all of my screws and have used most of them but some were to wore out and just didn't quite fit anymore.
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01-30-2018, 08:53 PM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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I can tell you with confidence that after about seventy years...screws turn into rivets. My entire bus body was screwed together. I think I managed to get about three out in one piece.
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01-30-2018, 09:24 PM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,245
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Ditto what Tango said. My bus was also 100% screws--slotted screws, rusted screws but no Phllips screws. About half of them yielded just enough to rip the threads off the screw to become free spinning. I treated those like rivets and ground them off. Fortunately, once the heads were gone I was able to use a drift to punch the unthreaded screw shanks out. After running a 1/4" tap through the threaded holes in the body bows I was able to simply replace the screws when I re-installed the inside sheet metal.
My bus is done (except for the stuff that breaks and has to be repaired) and I never even think of how much work it took to complete the project--it is just way too much fun to use and enjoy it. Jack
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01-30-2018, 09:30 PM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
I can tell you with confidence that after about seventy years...screws turn into rivets. My entire bus body was screwed together. I think I managed to get about three out in one piece.
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Yeah, but your bus is about 800 years old, right?
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01-30-2018, 10:00 PM
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#18
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
I can tell you with confidence that after about seventy years...screws turn into rivets. My entire bus body was screwed together. I think I managed to get about three out in one piece.
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I just looked at your build thread and WOW! Nice work. I love the look of the old buses, with the curves and angles they have a organic kinda look. Hand crafted, not spit out of a machine somewhere. Hope your a people person, your gonna have a line of folks asking about it every time you stop.
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01-30-2018, 11:05 PM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Actually, that is a concern. I am more of a hermit than a socializer. Don't get me wrong...I like people...well, some people...but then, I am more inclined to spend time in remote, semi-desolate areas, so the crowd thing should not be an issue.
Coyotes and pumas welcome!
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01-31-2018, 12:15 AM
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#20
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223
I do try a little humor every now and then while at work.
Same page. Yeah I caught where you were going but was only trying to expand on your quote not out do you.
I saved all of my screws and have used most of them but some were to wore out and just didn't quite fit anymore.
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Lol...I was enjoying the conversation but figured it was best to not continue down that slippery slope...
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