Sealing roof ideas

nwarner2010 · 06-02-2017, 05:07 PM

Hi all,

I've made several holes for some threaded rod to mount rails for solar and now having issues sealing it up. My roof never used to leak. I first welded up around each rod but had pin hole leaks (I'm not the best welder so was kind of expecting that). I then used elastomeric roof patch sealant, about 50% seem to not leak now. Any ideas on how to fix the rest? Just use more of the roof patch? I plan on painting the whole roof in elastomeric paint once I get it sealed.

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EastCoastCB · 06-02-2017, 05:19 PM

Seam Sealers | 3M United States

Use seam sealant and you can paint it with regular paint.

nwarner2010 · 06-02-2017, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Seam Sealers | 3M United States

Use seam sealant and you can paint it with regular paint.

Do you think it would be ok to put it over the roof patch? Or best to try and get it back down to the metal?

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EastCoastCB · 06-02-2017, 05:43 PM

That patch?
I just see that you used elastomeric.
Seam sealer can be used for painted or unpainted surfaces, depending on what sealant you use.

nwarner2010 · 06-02-2017, 05:48 PM

This is what I used to paint around each rod. I'm guessing it would be best to remove as much of the stuff that I put on as I can before putting the seam sealer on. I see Amazon has 3m heavy bodied seam sealer, 200ml, for $35. I would think that should be enough.
https://m.lowes.com/pd/BLACK-JACK-3-...rranty/3013306

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nwarner2010 · 06-02-2017, 05:51 PM

Maybe that roof patch stuff is the same thing as the elastomeric paint, never used either before using the roof patch stuff to paint around the threaded rod.

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Robin97396 · 06-02-2017, 06:57 PM

Which sealant do you think will last the longest? My guess is the seam sealant would last ultimately longer than elastomeric paint. The elastomeric has likely got your pin holes plugged up by now anyway.
I weld ugly. That's what they make grinders for.

nwarner2010 · 06-02-2017, 07:12 PM

I just ordered some seam sealer. I'll try to get as much of the paint off as possible, looks difficult. I painted around them about a week ago and just had a heavy rain today so was able to go out and check for leaks.

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Ryannmelis · 06-04-2017, 10:09 AM

Sikaflex is the best most flexible it is expensive. I used 6 tubes sealing my seams, rivets, and bolts on my roof. It stays flexible after it cures.. it is a polyerurathane sealant/ adhesive. Its worth its weight.

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Robin97396 · 06-04-2017, 11:59 AM

There are so many different kinds of seam sealant out there. Lots of two part sealers, paintable liquids, tubes of liquid and caulk types. They're all pretty expensive.

I'll look for some of that Silkaflex. I'm also getting ready to seal my windows. I've still got the factory window caulk in here and I've kept all the windows.

Ryannmelis · 06-04-2017, 01:16 PM

I left the front 5 on both sides. All of my windows leaked. I took them all out and sikaflexed them. Now I am good to go.....I had a lot of rust to tend to from the windows leaking...

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Robin97396 · 06-04-2017, 03:00 PM

Did you use the Silka 552?

Ryannmelis · 06-04-2017, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Did you use the Silka 552?

221

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nwarner2010 · 06-04-2017, 03:21 PM

Good to know. Hope to get all my windows back in within the next couple weeks. I ran out of tint today though so have to wait for more of that now. It's easier to tint the windows when they are out of the frame

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Robin97396 · 06-04-2017, 03:48 PM

It's not that bad tinting them on the wall. They sure don't move at all and the film sticks easy.

I cut a piece of window film slightly oversized for the window by about a 1/4" all the way around. After super cleaning the window I wet the glass with windex and apply the film. It slides around easy at first but once you start pushing the liquid out it sticks like glue and doesn't bubble. After the film is firmly pressed in place I trim the edges with a razor.

Previously I took out my pickup truck windows so I could work on them on a table, which I'd call a good three day learning experience. It's so much easier to install window film oversized for the window and trim it after.

I don't want to be preaching to the quire, but cleaning the window extremely well before applying the window film is absolutely necessary. I clean the window several times, then razor scrape the entire glass surface, followed by another cleaning before the window film goes on.

I know the window film makers recommend not using an ammonia based solution (windex) as the wetting agent while applying film. It works great, or at least mine did.

I love my tinted windows. Yes, mine were tinted from the factory in this bus, but I've considered adding window film to make them darker. Then I decided that wasn't really necessary. The right window film probably could help reflect heat more. I keep the windows on the sunny side of my bus covered with rigid insulation during warm weather to reduce the greenhouse effect.

nwarner2010 · 06-04-2017, 04:49 PM

Oh ya its not bad, just meant it's easier then having to cut around the gasket etc. I took all the windows apart to clean and reseal anyway so I figured I would tint them while I'm at it. My windows are around 30% from the factory and I'm tinting them with a 20% metallic film (I bought for my car ages ago but didn't like the color of it so never used it, but it works on the bus), this should put me right around 6% or so overall. The 20% metallic film has a total solar heat rejection of 80% so I'm hoping it will help keep it cool inside, if a little on the dark side.

I've heard of people using windex but also heard its not good for the film too, no personal experience there though. I just like to use some walmart brand baby shampoo and water, a couple drops of shampoo per spray bottle, cheap and effective.

Tinting window after window gets old fast though...half way through!

Robin97396 · 06-04-2017, 05:54 PM

Wow, you sound industrious.

I'm going to pull my windows, clean them up, paint the window frame to match my coming paint job and reseal. Easy peezy, right?

So far I've sanded the back end of the bus and two rib sections, but haven't been up on the roof yet. Almost broke a window.

I like to start with the easy parts so I'm invested before things get difficult.

nwarner2010 · 06-04-2017, 06:14 PM

I should have painted the window frames when I had them all apart but got lazy and just decided to paint them when I paint the bus. I did sand them all though so at least they are prepped.

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Sevier · 12-13-2020, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryannmelis

I left the front 5 on both sides. All of my windows leaked. I took them all out and sikaflexed them. Now I am good to go.....I had a lot of rust to tend to from the windows leaking...

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Hello Ryan -

How did you sikaflex your windows? There are so many edges, cracks, etc. Did you put the siks INSIDE the window frame? Or just outside along the seam where it meets the bus? Or both?

And you used Sikaflex 221 on both your windows AND all your metal seams, rivets etc?

Thanks Ryan!

BeNimble · 12-13-2020, 05:37 PM

Sorry to hear of your roof leaking. I would never put holes in my roof, just like I would never put holes in my boat hulls, even though commonly people do both.
But my comment on the solar mount would not use studs like that, but build a structure and then mount that structure to the roof, and have a flat surface mounting so there is a lot of contact with the mount, in which case you can just glue it down with maybe a couple bolts as backup.

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