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Old 09-21-2022, 07:48 AM   #1
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Seat Attachment

I've started looking at pulling my seats and found they isle side on all of them are through-bolted straight through the floor and into what look like pieces of angle iron. Before I got and rip this out, is it normal? I'd expected bolts into tapped holes or bolts welded to the chassis.

Obviously with through holes there's going to be a lot of fill welding :-/
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Old 09-21-2022, 08:12 AM   #2
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? I'd expected bolts into tapped holes or bolts welded to the chassis.

Obviously with through holes there's going to be a lot of fill welding :-/
Un-fill your mind with the the easy way of doing stuff and get ready to get that angle grinder out and just cut them bolt heads off.

I used roofing tin caps and construction adhesive to cover up all the bolt holes. Some people use pennies!
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Old 09-21-2022, 09:25 AM   #3
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Through bolting

Yup that is normal. You can seal holes with a dollop of seam sealer and press some thing on top to cover. Think washer with no hole in the middle. Pennies only cost a penny for each hole……
I recommend to stick with brand name seam sealer 3m. Silken, DuPont. Do some home work and see what is used here and maybe car restoration places. Whatever Datsun used in the 70’s and 80’s seems, pun intended, to have worked very well

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Old 09-21-2022, 09:28 AM   #4
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Thats just a way to thicken the 16g steel floor like a big washer. I had my son impact them from the top while i held a wrench on the bottom. Easier than angle grinder, but it takes two people. I was able to get a bunch out by using a pry bar on the top side and pulling the nut into the floor. This eliminated dome of the "stop/go" conversations with my 6 year old.



To patch the holes, i was originally going to weld them closed, but didnt for 3 reasons.


1. My bus body is galvanized and the heat from the weld will burn off the zinc and undercoating currently protecting the metal.
2. I have tracks, so many more holes, i couldn't always see the back side and many were close to air lines, fuel lines, etc.
3. I cant get to some of the holes from the bottom to repaint the new weld and raw steel to protect them.


As far as protecting them, i bought some stainless 1/2 round washer things that i had planned to caulk down over every hole before i insulate. Theres about 500 holes to fill. I think now i might just put the butyl sound deadener down over the entire floor under the XPS Foam. This will push into each hole to seal as well as sound deaden the whole thing. This sounds better than trying to put a dot of vulkem onto a tiny plate and line it up 500 times.
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Old 09-21-2022, 11:08 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by ewo1 View Post
Un-fill your mind with the the easy way of doing stuff and get ready to get that angle grinder out and just cut them bolt heads off.



I used roofing tin caps and construction adhesive to cover up all the bolt holes. Some people use pennies!
Skoolie easy is a contradiction in terms!
I caulked my seat holes shut using 1982 and earlier circulated pennies. [Fortunately, I've been hoarding such lucre for ages, so plenty to go 'round (and 'round)]!
They're worth more in raw metal value, but with no possible itty-bitty dielectric shittĄ those zinc copper clads could create.
Just my 2 scents for that stinky little post-seat post removal problem...
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Old 09-21-2022, 04:06 PM   #6
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is it normal?
Totally normally, as everybody else has already mentioned. It ties the seat into the rigidity of that stiffener on the underside, but without needing to hit dead center on the stiffener when drilling from above (which would never happen).

When you remove the seats and the matching brackets on the underside, they're actually pretty handy. I used them for a bunch of experiments in treating rust; they're in exactly the same state as the rest of the bus underside so they make perfect guinea pigs. This is what showed me that Ospho, Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer and Rust-Oleum high-performance enamel is probably the cheapest, easiest to apply and most effective rust protection there is.

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I'd expected bolts into tapped holes or bolts welded to the chassis.
Welding on the chassis, especially the flanges which are what seat bolts would attach to, is generally a no-no (it can be done but it requires lengthy preheating and post-warmdown and would not be at all economical). Also, you would not want anything rigidly attached to the chassis rails as the body is clipped to the rails and designed to slide forward a couple of feet in a head-on collision.
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