Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-10-2017, 08:54 PM   #21
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 19,715
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
so basically you would just use a torque stick to prevent from say twisting off a smaller bolt? but not actually SPEC'ing anything
-Christopher

cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2017, 09:46 PM   #22
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,264
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: IH
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 14
Years ago (and still to this day, in some shops), they'll just put the lugs back on with an impact wrench, torque specs be d***ed! Of course, this has the tendency to warp things, strip threads, and make it all but impossible to remove the wheel next time. In an effort to combat this practice, the torque stick came into use.
Brad_SwiftFur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2017, 09:55 PM   #23
Bus Crazy
 
mmoore6856's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: arkensas
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1997
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: chevy
Engine: 3116 catapillar
Rated Cap: 71 now 2 humans 1 cat
Using a regulator and the torque control adjustment you can set it without a stick so it wont exceed the spec. Factories use this method to fasten bolt and nuts to a specific torque value
mmoore6856 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 12:37 AM   #24
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,264
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: IH
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoore6856 View Post
Using a regulator and the torque control adjustment you can set it without a stick so it wont exceed the spec. Factories use this method to fasten bolt and nuts to a specific torque value
While factories do this with tools specifically set up for the job, some shade-tree Joe using his Harbor Freight impact wrench probably won't. That's what torque wrenches are for.
Brad_SwiftFur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 07:45 AM   #25
Mini-Skoolie
 
OldSkoolRacin71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 13
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e
Very good info! Thanks. I think I'll keep what I have and look for a good spare rim.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
OldSkoolRacin71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 08:54 AM   #26
Bus Crazy
 
mmoore6856's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: arkensas
Posts: 1,109
Year: 1997
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: chevy
Engine: 3116 catapillar
Rated Cap: 71 now 2 humans 1 cat
If you plan on changing your own dayton wheels are lighter have someone teach you how to align them and safely remove the rear wedges . You can also tighten them up with a 3/4 drive 1-1/4 6 point socket and have someone with a torque wrench check the breakaway torque. You will find out with the correct length breaker bar you can learn how to be consistant and save some bucks on the road. What size are your tires 10r22.5 or 11r22.5 i have a extra rim i think is for the 10 ill measure it when i get back
mmoore6856 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 09:12 AM   #27
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,795
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Heck, for posterity let's post that information here:

- Place jack under axle and put some pressure on it, but don't fully lift the wheel.
- Only JUST crack the nuts.
- Jack the wheel up until it is off the ground. Use a good jack stand or cribbing to hold the axle.
- Loosen the nuts so there's about 1/16" between the wedges and the nut. While standing aside give the wedges a couple taps with a hammer. It usually doesn't take much to free them. Without the nut on the stud the wedges can fly off and do some real damage.
- Once ALL the wedges are freely hanging you can loosen off the nuts.
- Now everything is pretty safe. Remove the rim.

There are plenty of youtube videos on how to true the tires when putting them back on. Here's the first result I encountered when searching:
That guy had more problems truing then I ever have.
When truing I usually use whatever is lying around. You don't need something tall either. A can of soup placed on the ground right up against the sidewall does just fine.


Also, page 2 of this document from Webb shows the tightening sequence and torque for Webb hubs, which are quite common.
http://www.webbwheel.com/pdfs/litera...R6_Webb_Torque
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.