Stationary Skoolie on friend's property - what do I need to know?

[TaliaDPerkins]

DeMac has a history of praising government interventions and people living their lives only by government's let, as of that were proper -- as far as I can recall.


Hamskoolie has a history of the diametric opposite.


DeMac has attacked me personally in IMs.


There is nothing of "Eris" to me*. I have noted there is great disagreement from "official" sources as to the causes of "forest fires" -- and as myself a professional working with power in the multi megawatts I solely endorse doing things properly . . .


. . . Which to my mind does not require or even imply "licensed contractors" or government permission. I have seen far too many such screw things right the h--l up.


BTW, I positively supplied information positively refuting the "85%" claim, and I too have heard statistics in the past to the effect that most of what are called forest fires are caused by lightning -- not consumers with power cords.


Direct burial cable is ideal if the digging is not prohibitive, I think.


"Don't even respond to her." <-- Uhuh, sure. Has no one yet noticed we have not asked of or heard from the OP how many linear feet of path the solution involved needs to cover?


*Although the subtitle, "How I found the Goddess and what I did to her when I found her." is one I find to be hysterically subversive. Do you know of Bob Dobbs?

[Wildfloweramanda]

Has no one yet noticed we have not asked of or heard from the OP how many linear feet of path the solution involved needs to cover?

I will get this measurement next time I'm over there. It's not that far,which I assume is better/safer?

[TaliaDPerkins]

@Wildfloweramanda It is more likely to be done safely and expensively the shorter it is, yes.

[HamSkoolie]

Funny how this is the first post I open as I just built a very long (about 70 feet) extension cord today to run 30 amps of 220.

They wanted $6/foot for #8 3 wire cable so I said no thanks and just bought the ends. Next stop the rental where we don't rent out the detached five car garage. I knew I had to have something over there that would work.
Sure enough..... a whole bunch of #6 3 plus ground cable hanging in the rafters. Slapped a couple of ends on it and the plasma torch made short work of the rusted out bottom in the battery bank. Soooo much easier that a grinder with a cutting wheel!
And I'm still alive. But then I double checked and put the multi meter to everything as well to ensure all was good.


And yes, improper use of extension cords, lamp cords, and power strips cause many fires. Yesterday was the first day a a HAM licensing class and in the safety presentation I pass around a bunch of training aids including those nifty plug in three light testers for 110 plugs, some of those things you plug into the wall outlet and it gives yo a bunch more outlets to use, and an improperly wired outlet. The slides include pics of an Amateur, Apprentice, Journeyman, and Expert plugging things in to a standard outlet. The "expert" has 14 items plugged in to his power strip which itself is plugged in to a single 15 amp outlet.
THAT is why we have all those fires.....human ignorance of the dangers.
LAMP cords (those thing white or brown things you get at the dollar store) ARE NOT extension cords, they are for LAMPS. But you'll see them used everywhere.
And power strips, while helpful when used properly, come with risks even when you do. I once walked into a vacant rental of mine and immediately smelled smoke. On investigation I found a power strip, with nothing plugged into it, melted into the carpet. As it turned out, we had a tree down from a storm which damaged the main feed to the home but without completely disconnecting it. We had to have the power cut by the utility before anything could be done about the down tree. Then once the tree was dealt with an electrician repaired the home portion of the feed and the utility hooked us back up.

But we could have lost the entire house because of power strip that couldn't handle the power fluctuations from the damaged main.

[Wildfloweramanda]

So um, my last post to this thread got lost at the end of page 2 so I'll try again (See original comment for attached photos)

Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda

Update from me, the OP!

I went and looked at this 8-window International bus today (doesn't run ... I'm gonna be stationary). He's asking $4K . The 11-window International I looked at is $2K but rougher shape. i honestly can't decide which is a better deal. Thoughts? Everyone seems to like the blue one but I don't want it to be an asthetic thing, I really want to know it's the better bus regardless of snazzy paint job. The advantages is the seats are out, it already has a white silicone roof paint, it has that nice side door, it's registered as an RV, and has a clean title.

He has also offered to let my pay part of it and make payments — which means he's ready to unload it. He owns a shuttle bus company and when the engine needed more work than he was willing to spend, he put it up for sale. What amount would you offer him?

My biggest concern is there was a discoloration on the inside ceiling at the same place where a vent that was painted over on the outside roof was located. Is that going to be as issue or did the silicone seal it? Property owner claims it hasn't had any water on the inside even with all the Florida summer storms we've recently had. I plan on keeping the original ceiling but may seal it with that alternative roof material that is posted somewhere in the forums. It keeps the bus "look" while making it look clean and finished.

There is one broken window but I assume thats not a big deal compared to all the other stuff that needs done. I was actually thinking of putting a closet area to the right of my bed in the back so I might just delete that window anyway. Best way to delete a broken window?

[BamaBus]

Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda

Update from me, the OP!

I went and looked at this 8-window International bus today (doesn't run ... I'm gonna be stationary). He's asking $4K . The 11-window International I looked at is $2K but rougher shape. i honestly can't decide which is a better deal. Thoughts? Everyone seems to like the blue one but I don't want it to be an asthetic thing, I really want to know it's the better bus regardless of snazzy paint job. The advantages is the seats are out, it already has a white silicone roof paint, it has that nice side door, it's registered as an RV, and has a clean title.

He has also offered to let my pay part of it and make payments — which means he's ready to unload it. He owns a shuttle bus company and when the engine needed more work than he was willing to spend, he put it up for sale. What amount would you offer him?

My biggest concern is there was a discoloration on the inside ceiling at the same place where a vent that was painted over on the outside roof was located. Is that going to be as issue or did the silicone seal it? Property owner claims it hasn't had any water on the inside even with all the Florida summer storms we've recently had. I plan on keeping the original ceiling but may seal it with that alternative roof material that is posted somewhere in the forums. It keeps the bus "look" while making it look clean and finished.

There is one broken window but I assume thats not a big deal compared to all the other stuff that needs done. I was actually thinking of putting a closet area to the right of my bed in the back so I might just delete that window anyway. Best way to delete a broken window?

To the point, I would still go with the 11-window if it hasn't been crushed. That line in the add makes it a lot cheaper. Seats can be removed, dents can be straightened, paint is cheap.
Both will need to be towed since neither run. The silicone roof may be difficult to have new silicone reapplied. The stripes are attention grabbing but is that what you want or do you want to blend in? Being an RV does not really add any value to me especially since it will be stationary.

[Wildfloweramanda]

Originally Posted by BamaBus

To the point, I would still go with the 11-window if it hasn't been crushed. That line in the add makes it a lot cheaper. Seats can be removed, dents can be straightened, paint is cheap.
Both will need to be towed since neither run. The silicone roof may be difficult to have new silicone reapplied. The stripes are attention grabbing but is that what you want or do you want to blend in? Being an RV does not really add any value to me especially since it will be stationary.

Well, I figured a giant yellow school bus doesn't blend in either, so either way I'm painting eventually. I do have to register whatever I get as an RV just so I can legally park it on the property, so not having to deal with that headache does seem valuable.

Is it weird my gut says goes with the blue one? The salvage lot one just felt so shady. I liked the man selling the blue one so much better, seemed much more honest and I like doing business with people that aren't in a hurry to get me to decide. The bus salvage guy has been rushing me and hasn't been very friendly. I'm kinda like, if you don't want to deal with buyers, don't try to sell it and just crush it and be done you know?

I guess I've already made my choice and just wanted someone to validate it Anyone out there??

[BamaBus]

Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda

Well, I figured a giant yellow school bus doesn't blend in either, so either way I'm painting eventually. I do have to register whatever I get as an RV just so I can legally park it on the property, so not having to deal with that headache does seem valuable.

Is it weird my gut says goes with the blue one? The salvage lot one just felt so shady. I liked the man selling the blue one so much better, seemed much more honest and I like doing business with people that aren't in a hurry to get me to decide. The bus salvage guy has been rushing me and hasn't been very friendly. I'm kinda like, if you don't want to deal with buyers, don't try to sell it and just crush it and be done you know?

I guess I've already made my choice and just wanted someone to validate it Anyone out there??

I'll validate which ever one you want cuz it's up to you in the end! I was just giving the reasons I wouldn't pay an extra 2,000 for the 8-window bus shell. The shady salvage seller wouldn't be any concern after it is yours, provided he has a title. Make an offer and walk away.

Check on how much the tow will be for each being that towing seems to be outrageous nowadays. The T444 engine maybe easier to repair than whatever is in the 2005 model but the engine parts and transmission of the 05 is probably worth more, offsetting any additional upfront cost.

See https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f18/f...ons-21010.html on the ease of converting a title to RV.

[TMartineau]

Id say do with the one that fits your goals. One that has the stuff you cant change. Like bama said, you can take out seats. You can paint. You can get an rv title. You cant get a longer/shorter bus (if you wanted) and you cant get better bones (rust). Well I guess you could chop a bus...I do like the paint job on the green bus but if the yellow one fits your needs better.... Don't let a bummy sales guy get you down you'll only have to deal with him until he gives you the title. Maybe I just made the decision a bit harder. Just like buying a house there are things you can change and things you cant.

[Albatross]

Originally Posted by TaliaDPerkins

Do you know of Bob Dobbs?

All Hail and praise to Bob and the church of the subgenius.
Get slack now.

[Dbacks2k4]

Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda

Update from me, the OP!

I went and looked at this 8-window International bus today (doesn't run ... I'm gonna be stationary). He's asking $4K . The 11-window International I looked at is $2K but rougher shape. i honestly can't decide which is a better deal. Thoughts? Everyone seems to like the blue one but I don't want it to be an asthetic thing, I really want to know it's the better bus regardless of snazzy paint job. The advantages is the seats are out, it already has a white silicone roof paint, it has that nice side door, it's registered as an RV, and has a clean title.

He has also offered to let my pay part of it and make payments — which means he's ready to unload it. He owns a shuttle bus company and when the engine needed more work than he was willing to spend, he put it up for sale. What amount would you offer him?

My biggest concern is there was a discoloration on the inside ceiling at the same place where a vent that was painted over on the outside roof was located. Is that going to be as issue or did the silicone seal it? Property owner claims it hasn't had any water on the inside even with all the Florida summer storms we've recently had. I plan on keeping the original ceiling but may seal it with that alternative roof material that is posted somewhere in the forums. It keeps the bus "look" while making it look clean and finished.

There is one broken window but I assume thats not a big deal compared to all the other stuff that needs done. I was actually thinking of putting a closet area to the right of my bed in the back so I might just delete that window anyway. Best way to delete a broken window?

I think $4k is a little high for a non-running bus. Assuming that bus has an undesirable engine (6.0 or a maxxforce) that's all it'd be worth in a running condition. Even with a desirable pre-maxxforce DT466e it's value is only $5-6k, again in good condition. I'd offer $2500 and negotiate up to $3k max with your goals in mind. That is just my opinion of course.

Discoloration at the vent is very common on these Internationals, those vents leak horribly. This is why its important to pull the ceiling down and replace the insulation, then permanently delete/seal that vent (or replace with a maxxair fan or similar). You can always reinstall the original ceiling if that's what you want. International ceilings are usually screwed in, not riveted, so it can be done.

International windows are easy to replace, they're flat glass. I go to a local glass shop. He puts in a poly-something-or-other window that's basically auto-rated plexiglass. Cheaper than real glass and has the benefit of not breaking again. He charges me like $40 or something with installation as long as I bring the bus (or remove the window in its frame and take that to him).

Skoolie.com sells custom fabricated window delete panels for a little over $100.

[Wildfloweramanda]

Originally Posted by Dbacks2k4

I think $4k is a little high for a non-running bus. Assuming that bus has an undesirable engine (6.0 or a maxxforce) that's all it'd be worth in a running condition. Even with a desirable pre-maxxforce DT466e it's value is only $5-6k, again in good condition. I'd offer $2500 and negotiate up to $3k max with your goals in mind. That is just my opinion of course.

Discoloration at the vent is very common on these Internationals, those vents leak horribly. This is why its important to pull the ceiling down and replace the insulation, then permanently delete/seal that vent (or replace with a maxxair fan or similar). You can always reinstall the original ceiling if that's what you want. International ceilings are usually screwed in, not riveted, so it can be done.

International windows are easy to replace, they're flat glass. I go to a local glass shop. He puts in a poly-something-or-other window that's basically auto-rated plexiglass. Cheaper than real glass and has the benefit of not breaking again. He charges me like $40 or something with installation as long as I bring the bus (or remove the window in its frame and take that to him).

Skoolie.com sells custom fabricated window delete panels for a little over $100.

Thank you! This is really helpful. I made an offer on the blue bus, but if he doesn't accept it, I'm going with yellow salvage yard bus, because I agree, $4k is steep for a non runner. He may have invested that much, but, maybe he shouldn't have. He put new front tires on and gave it new batteries before getting the mechanic's appraisal on engine repairs. It has all this new stuff that I won't even be using

[Wildfloweramanda]

Originally Posted by TMartineau

Id say do with the one that fits your goals. One that has the stuff you cant change. Like bama said, you can take out seats. You can paint. You can get an rv title. You cant get a longer/shorter bus (if you wanted) and you cant get better bones (rust). Well I guess you could chop a bus...I do like the paint job on the green bus but if the yellow one fits your needs better.... Don't let a bummy sales guy get you down you'll only have to deal with him until he gives you the title. Maybe I just made the decision a bit harder. Just like buying a house there are things you can change and things you cant.

No, I appreciate your POV. Everything is helpful that dude at the salvage yard shall be forever known now as "bummy sales guy" LOL

[musigenesis]

Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda

What amount would you offer him?

Scrap - like $1K at most. That's all he's going to get for a non-running bus anyway, and it would save him the expense of towing it to a scrap yard (assuming you're paying to have it towed somewhere).

Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda

My biggest concern is there was a discoloration on the inside ceiling at the same place where a vent that was painted over on the outside roof was located. Is that going to be as issue or did the silicone seal it? Property owner claims it hasn't had any water on the inside even with all the Florida summer storms we've recently had.

That thing is called a static vent or passive vent. It's designed (rather cleverly, actually) to allow airflow in and out of the bus without allowing water to enter, even with rain being driven horizontally. The discoloration you're seeing is just dust and dirt that has fouled the perforated headliner just below the hole cut in the roof and the insulation for this vent. If water were getting in, it wouldn't cause a discoloration - it would cause rust on the ceiling and/or a big puddle on the floor.

The bus probably is getting water inside from leaky windows and light openings etc., but in school buses this water tends to flow inside the walls and soak the plywood on the floor. This is normal for school buses - we just got some brand-new Internationals at work and they all leak badly when it rains. If you want to live in this thing comfortably, you're going to have to do the same kind of work sealing everything up that owners of functioning skoolies have to do.

[Wildfloweramanda]

Originally Posted by musigenesis

Scrap - like $1K at most. That's all he's going to get for a non-running bus anyway, and it would save him the expense of towing it to a scrap yard (assuming you're paying to have it towed somewhere).

That thing is called a static vent or passive vent. It's designed (rather cleverly, actually) to allow airflow in and out of the bus without allowing water to enter, even with rain being driven horizontally. The discoloration you're seeing is just dust and dirt that has fouled the perforated headliner just below the hole cut in the roof and the insulation for this vent. If water were getting in, it wouldn't cause a discoloration - it would cause rust on the ceiling and/or a big puddle on the floor.

The bus probably is getting water inside from leaky windows and light openings etc., but in school buses this water tends to flow inside the walls and soak the plywood on the floor. This is normal for school buses - we just got some brand-new Internationals at work and they all leak badly when it rains. If you want to live in this thing comfortably, you're going to have to do the same kind of work sealing everything up that owners of functioning skoolies have to do.

Awesome, no problems there, I had intended to seal the heck out of it! I'm no longer worried about that vent (thanks for educating me!), though after talking to you guys and some other people I think the 11 window is the one to go with. I'm going to go buy it in the morning!!