Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-08-2022, 08:58 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 30
Stationary Skoolie on friend's property - what do I need to know?

WATER & POWER: How do I safely and efficiently run off of my friend's power grid?

SOLAR: Does solar make sense for a stationary bus?

RUST: Is rust as big of an issue for a stationary bus if the "bones" are good?

WASTE: Best toilet and wastewater plan in this setup?

I had a lot more detail but it got lost during my last attempt at submission, so feel free to ask if you have any questions. ��

Wildfloweramanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2022, 09:51 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
DeMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,016
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
Welcome

Hello, Wildfloweramanda. Welcome to the Insane Asylum.


What kind of bus do you have?
__________________
Ceiling: Framing & Electrical Rough-in
Convert Hatch to AC & Roof Patch
Frederick Douglass: "If there is no struggle, there is no progress.
DeMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2022, 11:03 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 30
I haven't made the purchase quite yet - hopefully in the next few weeks! I've been watching auctions on Public Surplus, but I'm not sure the recently retired school buses are in my budget! So I've been looking at a couple non-running shells, and the two that weren't covered in mold and disgusting (lol) have some promise, if not for some rust!

1st contender is a 1997 International for $2k. From a local school here in Sarasota FL. Inside is pretty beat up so I wonder where it was before it made it to the salvage lot LOL

The 2nd is a 1998 Thomas Charter Bus for $1.9k that was driven here from Boston so you can imagine there is a crap ton of rust :P BUT I love the size and all the compartment storage. The ceiling is solid and clean and the floor *feels* solid but idk wtf I'm doing yet
Wildfloweramanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2022, 07:40 AM   #4
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 332
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12-valve
Rated Cap: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda View Post
I haven't made the purchase quite yet - hopefully in the next few weeks! I've been watching auctions on Public Surplus, but I'm not sure the recently retired school buses are in my budget! So I've been looking at a couple non-running shells, and the two that weren't covered in mold and disgusting (lol) have some promise, if not for some rust!

1st contender is a 1997 International for $2k. From a local school here in Sarasota FL. Inside is pretty beat up so I wonder where it was before it made it to the salvage lot LOL

The 2nd is a 1998 Thomas Charter Bus for $1.9k that was driven here from Boston so you can imagine there is a crap ton of rust :P BUT I love the size and all the compartment storage. The ceiling is solid and clean and the floor *feels* solid but idk wtf I'm doing yet
The 97 on FB is not that beat up. The exterior has some damage which can be fixed and the interior will be gutted. It is a high roof and the motor may have some value. Price is always negotiable and you may get a free tow.
BamaBus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2022, 07:43 AM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaBus View Post
The 97 on FB is not that beat up. The exterior has some damage which can be fixed and the interior will be gutted. It is a high roof and the motor may have some value. Price is always negotiable and you may get a free tow.
Wow, that is actually incredibly helpful. I had wondered about the tow too, since that's literally what they do to get most of their inventory
Wildfloweramanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2022, 08:04 AM   #6
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 332
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12-valve
Rated Cap: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda View Post
WATER & POWER: How do I safely and efficiently run off of my friend's power grid?

SOLAR: Does solar make sense for a stationary bus?

RUST: Is rust as big of an issue for a stationary bus if the "bones" are good?

WASTE: Best toilet and wastewater plan in this setup?

I had a lot more detail but it got lost during my last attempt at submission, so feel free to ask if you have any questions. ��
I would be interested in the ability to park a school bus on the property of your friend before I bought a bus. Would you have a lease or rental agreement to prevent being kicked off the property?
Is this a rural location or in the middle of Sarasota? How close is it to any permanent structure that has existing power and sewage?
BamaBus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2022, 08:16 AM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 30
It's outside the city limits in a neighborhood with no restrictions, very close to Bradenton. This neighborhood has houses with large campers parked on them that you can tell have been sitting there indefinitely. The lot behind where my bus would park is almost completely empty except a local business parks some of their trailers there, despite it not being zoned for commercial. Yards are not meticulously maintained, just working class people all doing their own thing and parking all kinds of vehicles where they want. There is also a partial fence around where my bus would sit. It's close to her house, but at the back property line in the side/backyard. She said I can hook up to any of her utilities and yes I'd be paying her lot rent.
Wildfloweramanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2022, 08:47 AM   #8
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 332
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12-valve
Rated Cap: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda View Post
It's outside the city limits in a neighborhood with no restrictions, very close to Bradenton. This neighborhood has houses with large campers parked on them that you can tell have been sitting there indefinitely. The lot behind where my bus would park is almost completely empty except a local business parks some of their trailers there, despite it not being zoned for commercial. Yards are not meticulously maintained, just working class people all doing their own thing and parking all kinds of vehicles where they want. There is also a partial fence around where my bus would sit. It's close to her house, but at the back property line in the side/backyard. She said I can hook up to any of her utilities and yes I'd be paying her lot rent.
The location description is similar to where I live. No one has complained about the buses I have and I don't know what rule I violate since there is not any. My plan is to set a "camp site" with power either run from my house or from a separate meter. I also have solar panels and other equipment to start an independent power system since I hope to be mobile.
Sewage will be tied into existing septic system. How I do that will depend on actual location.
Your friend may want to invest in some of this which may give her some tax incentives.
BamaBus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2022, 10:31 AM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
DeMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,016
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
Current Events in Sarasota

Making a handshake deal with a friend is good for today. The deal between two parties is actually dependant on a third party, zoning and enforcement. If (when really) an enforcement officer begins troubling the owner, the deal is over.

County is easier than City. How is your friend zoned? In Florida, a vehicle parked on A-1 zoned land (officially registered as a working farm), displaying a FL "Goat" license plate, must remain on the farm, by state law. No insurance requirement. The FL Dept of Ag & FL DOT supercede local code authority. No vehicle movement will be requested, but verification of 'Ag use only' might require an inspection of the interior.

A commercial vehicle without a tag & insurance, is not in the even in the same category as a Recreational Vehicle with a tag & insurance. Such as your friend's neighbors' RVs, boats, lawn business, etc.

I did a Gooble search "Sarasota Code Enforcement". The county enforcement officers there have littered local news outlets for five years with stories (and a civil suit) of homeowners describing enforcement officials engaged in harassment, civil rights violations, bullying, trespassing, taking photos through rear windows, even stalking homeowners at their out of county jobs. Doesn't seem like a lax enforcement agency to me.

It may benefit you to learn the local building/zoning requirements (which may not be enforced today). Try to comply, just to keep your friend's head out of the line of fire, if/when....

Do you intend to request building permits for the upgrades to the real property? Sewage/septic additions, potable water service, electric panel upgrades & pedestal, concrete pad, etc? Might I suggest completing all of the site improvements & inspections prior to the arrival (and deconstruction) of a salvaged bus.
__________________
Ceiling: Framing & Electrical Rough-in
Convert Hatch to AC & Roof Patch
Frederick Douglass: "If there is no struggle, there is no progress.
DeMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2022, 11:07 PM   #10
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Midwest
Posts: 223
If you don't plan to move, would you be better off doing a shipping container instead of a bus? A container is 40ft long, no engine to deal with, and no steering stuff or driver's area to deal with. And, if eventually you are forced to move, if it's designed right you can have it picked up and moved by any tractor set up to move a container. Shipping containers can be had in the 3500 dollar range and is ready to start building now, no deconstruction like a bus would require.
Veloc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 12:49 AM   #11
Bus Nut
 
Dbacks2k4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Iowa
Posts: 329
Year: 2006
Chassis: IC CE300 (PB105)
Engine: DT466e 7.6L 245hp | Allison 3000PTS
Rated Cap: 66
I would think the bus wouldn't matter as much. Rust is still going to get in the way of some of your conversion and you'd have to worry about the floor going out below you, but not nearly as much as a moving bus. You're probably better off going fully off-grid and not tying into your friends' utilities, which means solar, portable water, etc. Gray water disposal will be the biggest headache. As soon as you start tying into utilities, or a meter reader comes around and starts poking around you suddenly get into a lot of headaches with inspections and compliance stuff.

As others have said I would encourage your friend to really look into the zoning to make sure she's not going to have a problem later. She may not be happy to learn she's required to have a concrete driveway and an approved drain with oil separator if there's an old diesel engine parked on her property for more than 9 months a year or something stupid like that.

I would also highly recommend writing a formal lease with her. I've seen more than once a business of sorts agreement between friends go south fast. Expectations or personal circumstance over time can change which can make any arrangement hairy, especially if it was a verbal/handshake agreement. Write into your lease what happens when the arrangement doesn't work out for either one of you. What conditions can cause her to kick you out? How much notice does she have to give you? What can you do or not do on her property? Limit to number of guests, noise restrictions, light restrictions. How much water can you use? Can she raise your rent? What if she makes investments on the property for you (driveway, run a water line to fill your tanks) and you get an amazing job opportunity and have to move to Europe in 3 months - do you owe her for any of that?
Dbacks2k4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 02:19 AM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veloc View Post
If you don't plan to move, would you be better off doing a shipping container instead of a bus? A container is 40ft long, no engine to deal with, and no steering stuff or driver's area to deal with. And, if eventually you are forced to move, if it's designed right you can have it picked up and moved by any tractor set up to move a container. Shipping containers can be had in the 3500 dollar range and is ready to start building now, no deconstruction like a bus would require.
Honestly, I like the aesthetic of the bus, especially the windows ... I thrive on lots of natural light, even if the trade off is battling temperature control a bit more. Also, I've been looking at bus "shells", those that don't run. All in the 2K range and under so it's a good deal economically too.
Wildfloweramanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 02:23 AM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbacks2k4 View Post
I would think the bus wouldn't matter as much. Rust is still going to get in the way of some of your conversion and you'd have to worry about the floor going out below you, but not nearly as much as a moving bus. You're probably better off going fully off-grid and not tying into your friends' utilities, which means solar, portable water, etc. Gray water disposal will be the biggest headache. As soon as you start tying into utilities, or a meter reader comes around and starts poking around you suddenly get into a lot of headaches with inspections and compliance stuff.

As others have said I would encourage your friend to really look into the zoning to make sure she's not going to have a problem later. She may not be happy to learn she's required to have a concrete driveway and an approved drain with oil separator if there's an old diesel engine parked on her property for more than 9 months a year or something stupid like that.

I would also highly recommend writing a formal lease with her. I've seen more than once a business of sorts agreement between friends go south fast. Expectations or personal circumstance over time can change which can make any arrangement hairy, especially if it was a verbal/handshake agreement. Write into your lease what happens when the arrangement doesn't work out for either one of you. What conditions can cause her to kick you out? How much notice does she have to give you? What can you do or not do on her property? Limit to number of guests, noise restrictions, light restrictions. How much water can you use? Can she raise your rent? What if she makes investments on the property for you (driveway, run a water line to fill your tanks) and you get an amazing job opportunity and have to move to Europe in 3 months - do you owe her for any of that?
I appreciate this, lots of good forethought without any judgement.

Your post was so well written, I think I'm basically just going to copy/paste and share it with her, and she and I can go from there.

The off-grid reasoning you mentioned had occurred to me too, so thank you for reminding me why that's a solid plan
Wildfloweramanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 08:00 AM   #14
Bus Crazy
 
HamSkoolie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,237
Year: 1996
Coachwork: AmTran (Now Navistar)
Engine: DT444E (7.3L) International
Rated Cap: 31,800 pounds
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbacks2k4 View Post
You're probably better off going fully off-grid and not tying into your friends' utilities, which means solar, portable water, etc. Gray water disposal will be the biggest headache. As soon as you start tying into utilities, or a meter reader comes around and starts poking around you suddenly get into a lot of headaches with inspections and compliance stuff.
One way to send those nosy inspectors packing when they see your power comes from the house is to not "tie in" but to make an (heavy duty) "extension cord" plugged in to a house outlet (preferably an outside one but a wooden filler in a window with the cable through a hole works as well).
You are then NOT tied in and no permits are required. You could even bury a pipe in the ground to run the cable in and it's still gonna send them packing when you tell them they have no jurisdiction over an extension cord.


As for solar, if it's stationary and has grid power available, I'd go with the grid for one reason. Solar can get expensive. The off grid solar for our bus is in the $10,000 range with panels, charge controllers, inverter, batteries, panel racking, etc. though we are going Victron.
__________________
YouTube: HAMSkoolie WEB: HAMSkoolie.com
We've done so much, for so long, with so little, we now do the impossible, overnight, with nothing. US Marines -- 6531, 3521. . . .Ret ASE brakes & elect. Ret (auto and aviation mech). Extra Class HAM, NAUI/PADI OpenWater diver
HamSkoolie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 09:12 AM   #15
Bus Crazy
 
DeMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,016
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
Safe Advise or No?

I agree with Ham. Connectng to the home's outdoor receptacle, using a (UV protected) HD extension cord and a quality food grade water supply hose is good advice. Maybe a plan for propane, too.

However, Extension Cord (SO cord) ought not be in conduit, never concealed or buried, nor travel through holes in wood or installed through windows/doorways.

NEC 400-8
"Unless permitted in Section 400.7, they are not permitted:
(1) for a substitute for fixed wiring of a building;
(2) installed through a hole in walls, ceilings, or floors;
(3) through doorways, windows, or similar openings;
(4) installed concealed;
(5) attached to building surfaces;
(6) installed in raceways unless permitted by the code;
(7) where subject to physical damage."


Interestingly, 'S' rated cords are the only wire types in the entire NEC which have a list of "Forbidden Uses".

Inspectors are familiar with Article 400 Flexible Cords & Cables. They are the AHJ & have a responsibility to protect citizens and the grid from any fire safety code violation, includes removing the meter from the home until a licensed Electrician corrects the compliance issues.

Builders following well intended advice from strangers on the web may commit the very code violations (and fire risks) which we prefer to avoid.

Did I miss something? Why would a property owner NOT add a circuit (2P/30 or 50) & run Potable Water in the same ditch?
__________________
Ceiling: Framing & Electrical Rough-in
Convert Hatch to AC & Roof Patch
Frederick Douglass: "If there is no struggle, there is no progress.
DeMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 10:26 AM   #16
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeMac View Post
I agree with Ham. Connectng to the home's outdoor receptacle, using a (UV protected) HD extension cord and a quality food grade water supply hose is good advice. Maybe a plan for propane, too.

However, Extension Cord (SO cord) ought not be in conduit, never concealed or buried, nor travel through holes in wood or installed through windows/doorways.

NEC 400-8
"Unless permitted in Section 400.7, they are not permitted:
(1) for a substitute for fixed wiring of a building;
(2) installed through a hole in walls, ceilings, or floors;
(3) through doorways, windows, or similar openings;
(4) installed concealed;
(5) attached to building surfaces;
(6) installed in raceways unless permitted by the code;
(7) where subject to physical damage."


Interestingly, 'S' rated cords are the only wire types in the entire NEC which have a list of "Forbidden Uses".

Inspectors are familiar with article 400 Flexible Cords & Cables. They are the AHJ & have a responsibility to protect citizens and the grid from any fire safety code violation, includes removing the meter from the home until a licensed Electrician corrects the compliance issues.

Builders following well intended advice from strangers on the web may commit the very code violations (and fire risks) which we prefer to avoid.

Did I miss something? Why would a property owner NOT add a circuit (2P/30 or 50) & run Potable Water in the same ditch?
Wow, both you and HamSkoolie have offered some incredible advice. I will pass this on to my friend. I LOVE THIS FORUM
Wildfloweramanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 11:03 AM   #17
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 30
What would be the perfect extension cord (link)? I did a search for a UV protected HD cord but there were so many options and I want to get it right ((head spinning))!
Wildfloweramanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 11:24 AM   #18
Bus Crazy
 
DeMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,016
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildfloweramanda View Post
What would be the perfect extension cord (link)? I did a search for a UV protected HD cord but there were so many options and I want to get it right ((head spinning))!
W = Weather
I use SOOW.


See 'S' Cord Designations for a full list which includes descriptions.

Also, review how temperature affects the ampacity of Flexible Cord, specifically, 400-5 Ampacities for Flexible Cords & Flexible Cables when sizing your cord purchace.
__________________
Ceiling: Framing & Electrical Rough-in
Convert Hatch to AC & Roof Patch
Frederick Douglass: "If there is no struggle, there is no progress.
DeMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 12:50 PM   #19
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeMac View Post
W = Weather
I use SOOW.


See 'S' Cord Designations for a full list which includes descriptions.

Also, review how temperature affects the ampacity of Flexible Cord, specifically, 400-5 Ampacities for Flexible Cords & Flexible Cables when sizing your cord purchace.
Thank you! That's very helpful
Wildfloweramanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2022, 06:09 PM   #20
Bus Crazy
 
HamSkoolie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,237
Year: 1996
Coachwork: AmTran (Now Navistar)
Engine: DT444E (7.3L) International
Rated Cap: 31,800 pounds
So this is all in the interest of discussion, parsing the issue, and bringing up things some may not have considered....that's all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeMac View Post
However, Extension Cord (SO cord) ought not be in conduit, never concealed or buried, nor travel through holes in wood or installed through windows/doorways.
So I'm not talking about your standard go to WalMart and buy a cord. Rather something hand made from good wire. Or how about direct burial cable? It pops up out of the ground near the outside electric box (or inside if able - see below), plugs in to the outlet and goes straight underground and over to the bus where it pops out right near the shore power input and plugs in.
Is it the best way to do things - of course not.
Is it legal - I think so ("Code" is civil not judicial so a legal/illegal issue)
On the other hand do you want to get insurance? You are liable for

civil and criminal repercussions if anything bad happens.
Is it "to Code" - See below



Quote:
Originally Posted by DeMac View Post
NEC 400-8
"Unless permitted in Section 400.7, they are not permitted:
(1) for a substitute for fixed wiring of a building;
(2) installed through a hole in walls, ceilings, or floors;
(3) through doorways, windows, or similar openings;
(4) installed concealed;
(5) attached to building surfaces;
(6) installed in raceways unless permitted by the code;
(7) where subject to physical damage."



It's been mentioned but I'll reiterate. The NFPA 70 (i.e. the NEC)......as are all NFPA publications...... published by a private organization with zero legal authority. That organization has it's own agenda as do those who run it. For instance, GFCI's at outlets near water are no longer sufficient. They want to require ARC fault outlets in bedrooms now. An unnecessary expense that begs the questions ...."How many times in a country of 325 million people has there been a problem that these devices would have prevented?" AND "Who profits from this".

It's nice to think "if it saves just one life" but that's such a ridiculous statement. If that were the standard then:
Our cars wouldn't go over 15mph but would still have the airbags
We woun't have buckets, bathtubs, or swimming pools that kill children
We wouldn't have kitchen knives.....or ladders, chainsaws, etc.
So follow the money and you'll find the reason.



Next, has the locale in question adopted the NEC as their local code or have they written their own code and ignored the NEC.....OR..... Believe it or not there are still zones of liberty and freedom in this country where there are no permits, no codes, etc. and you are free to do as you wish. The Darwin theory works quite well under those circumstances.
Okay ther NEC was adopted.......was that done at a lawfully held public meeting after meeting all the legal requirements to pass local regulations? Advance notice in the lawfully required manner, public hearing(s), required number of readings, proper vote at a lawful meeting, etc. It sounds silly but a lot of small jurisdictions run on the "good ole boy" system and it's almost universally not done in compliance with the LAW. If you think this is a silly point I've held political office and such challenges are made....and quite a few times they succeed on "technicalities" (i.e. they made the government entity obey THE LAW).



Now, that list..... remember this is like devils advocate

(1) for a substitute for fixed wiring of a building;
Doesn't apply, the building has its fixed wiring, this isn't going to a building.
(2) installed through a hole in walls, ceilings, or floors;
Okay, cut a hole in the outside wall near an interior outlet. Install a new box and outlet fed from the inside box.

(3) through doorways, windows, or similar openings;

Okay, these aren't my preference. However, looking to my left I see...... three black cords/cables coming in through a hole in a board that is in a window. An inspector observing from the outside and challenging me on them is going to have some problems. First of which is he will be trespassed from my property until he returns with a proper warrant. Bringing a cop (without a warrant) is a common next step...that's always fun, since the cop does not have any authority in a civil matter.
(4) installed concealed;
Is this term defined? Concealed means hidden and it it comes up out of the ground and is openly plugged into an outlet then the general definition of concealed isn't going to apply. That's why here in Oregon if the grip of your pistol is visible it's not concealed. In another state the entire holster must be visible or it's concealed. That's ones REALLY dumb.

(5) attached to building surfaces;
Define "attached". I suspect they mean stapled or otherwise affixed. Being plugged into an outlet that is fully intended to have something plugged in wouldn't fall under this.
(6) installed in raceways unless permitted by the code;
We're not.
(7) where subject to physical damage
Kind of the purpose of the big pipe (not conduit but an actual pipe of 2-4 inches IO).

Okay, so we do have the code properly adopted and all he I's dotted and T's crossed. Can stick it in a pipe or any of that other stuff....."for safety".
FINE....we'll just take a couple 2x4's nail them to a flat piece of wood or metal with a gap just big enough for the cord, and simply drive over the cord that's SORT OF protected from damage...because the alleged safety code said we couldn't do it a safer way.


Always remember, where there's a rule, there's a guy like me looking at it with a microscope. Some are called lawyers.
__________________
YouTube: HAMSkoolie WEB: HAMSkoolie.com
We've done so much, for so long, with so little, we now do the impossible, overnight, with nothing. US Marines -- 6531, 3521. . . .Ret ASE brakes & elect. Ret (auto and aviation mech). Extra Class HAM, NAUI/PADI OpenWater diver
HamSkoolie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
newbies, shore power, stationary, waste

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.