Subfloor with these?

[Kdruva]

I've been reading a lot of threads about this and have yet to see anyone using this type for the subfloor.

DRIcore 7/8 in. x 2 ft. x 2 ft. DRIcore Subfloor Panel-CDGNUS750024024 - The Home Depot

Does anyone have any experience with these on a bus at all and know if they would be sturdy enough to screw cabinetry into and what not? We aren't planning on insulating the floor other than this so it would be steel floor>this subfloor>floating laminate.

[Jolly Roger]

Haven't ever tried or seen those?
For the price of each you could go with a 1/4 foam board. Home depot sells it as an underlayment. 1/4" luan birch plywood. Build all your walls cabinetry on top of that screwed all the way through the steel platform your are building on/in.
Then use the floating floor under lay and the floating floor in the walk,work,visible areas? I might catch some slack here for this idea but that's ok.
I think a floating floor that expands and contracts and even the instructions say for a house install leave a 1/4" on the edges and not to nail the base boards down tight to allow room for movement and I have seen that in the floating floor I did in my house and didn't read the instructions? I put it in like a hardwood floor?
Oops???
Some install there entire floating floor and mount/build on top of it? I don't reccomend it but I have never done that so I don't know how it did or didn't do for them.
What I said above is the idea I went. The luan board gave my wife and I a clean slate to start layout ideas with pencil marks(she was a res. architect at the time?) we had a few debates? I would recommend 1-1/2-4" wide painters masking tape to mark the walls to build if you go that direction.
I used sheetmetal stud framing for mine which left me with a 2-1/2" finished partition/wall for everything I did. If you use 2x4"'s it will be different.
That's why I gave a wide range of tape for a layout and expect it to move around until you get what makes you happy.

[Jolly Roger]

Sorry I got side tracked? It happens?
I built on top of the subfloor and used a linoleum type solid sheet material under every wet area/kitchen,bath and turned the edges up 2-3"s onto the framing to hold a water prob in those areas without the water getting into the floating floor. Those are just my ideas?
Less money on the finished floor/visible square foot and a little more/time and money into protection from the working parts that are going to leak eventually?
Sorry I do water piping on a large scale for a living. Not trying to scare anyone but I build for the worst case scenario when I can.
If my kitchen sink leaks unnoticed? I might lose one shelf board? But that is also where we store the kitchen towels,napkins and such. It should be noticed before it's a problem.
Most any new-fangled finished flooring don't like water! Take your shoes off at the door is a must? So that means a rug or carpet at the entrance is a must unless you have a boot shoe cleaner at the door for everyone to use before they enter?

Just ideas and things in my head