Taurus fan wiring for V8 swap

[the_experience03]

Well, it's happened...I've decided that it's time my Toyota gets a small block Chevy. So far I have found one part...a two speed Ford Taurus fan that I got for free. I know there are wiring diagrams and even kits available online, but I thought I would take a crack at this without any help first and get advice later. Yep, reinventing the wheel.

The idea behind this set up is that there will be two switches in the cab. One will switch from Auto and Manual control. Under Auto control the fan will be switched to low and high speeds via temperature sensing switches commonly available. Under manual control there will be a Low, Off, and High position available.

The relays are required because of the power draw of the unit. The two relays on the low speed side will insure that the low speed winding is not energized at any time the high speed winding is.

That parts list includes:
(2) 40 amp normally off Bosch style relays with pigtail sockets
(1) 40 amp normally on Bosch style relay with pigtail socket
(1) SPDT switch
(1) SPDT w/ center switch
(1) 40 amp fuse and holder
(1) 3 amp fuse and holder
and finally...lots of 10 and 16 gauge wire, lots of solder, and plenty of shrink wrap.

Using eBay I'm hoping to come in at about $75 (I already have the fan) for a two speed manual and automatically controlled two speed electric fan. Not bad I don't think.

[the_experience03]

Oh yeah...and I realize that the functions of the normally on and normally off relays on the low side could be combined into one relay housing that essentially houses two relays and I haven't ruled that option out, but I was looking to make the drawing as clear to myself and others as possible so that is still an option. Also, the fan might end up as a pusher in which case the low and high power wires would actually become grounds and the main power feed to the fans would go through the wire that is currently the fan ground.

Questions? Comments? Any input? I'm all ears.

[bdavis441]

Use the search button, noob!

Ha, you know I'm just kidding. That was the standard 4x4 forum response. I haven't taken a real close look at your diagrams yet. I usually seem to do a decent job of this stuff, I'll provide any input if I can when I get a minute to study it.
Good Luck!
Brad

[the_experience03]

I actually subscribed to the recent thread about it, but something about paying $130 for a fan controller seems kind of foolish to me. The idea behind the Taurus fans is to be low dollar. Since I did those diagrams I've done a bit more research. We'll see what I come up with. I have some time (though not much...I get the 350/700R4/208 on Sunday).

[bdavis441]

I've sat here and stared at that diagram for a while now, To me, it looks like it will work as intended. I'm curious about this myself. I'm building a Ranger truggy with rear mounted radiator that will have elec fans (probably taurus) . I'll be following this.

[the_experience03]

That's kind of where I'm at. I'm not sure if my radiator is going in the back or the front.

I paid $125 (!!!) for a 1986 Suburban. The engine in it is carbed (obviously given the year) and runs, but blows blue smoke and the oil has the distinct smell of gas to it so a $200 rebuild kit and an afternoon are in order. It's back by a 700R4 that was rebuilt 20,000 ago which also received a mild shift kit and the corvette servo upgrade. The NP208 behind it was rebuilt at the same time. Needless to say I think I got a deal.

I'd like to shoehorn the engine as far back in the Yota as possible. I'm perfectly prepared to cut up the firewall and build a doghouse. Unfortunately the engine/trans/t-case combo is LONG and unless I can find a mid 80's Dodge NP-208 to swap the back half the of t-case I'm stuck with a slip yoke which just makes things worse. Needless to say I don't think I'm getting that engine as far bask as I'd like to try and get SOME balance out of the rig.

The radiator in the Suburban is brand new. In fact, I paid for the radiator from the guy and just got the rest of the Suburban for free with it. I know the radiator is big enough to cool the rig and I know it's new so of course I'd like to use it. Unfortunately I'd be hacking up my core support....a lot....to make it fit so I think it might end up in the bed. It's not the greatest solution, but I think it would work.

I'll take pictures and keep you posted on what I decide to do fan-wise. What is your recommendation for running the lines to the radiator? I've heard of people running copper and exhaust pipe, both of which scare me a little, copper because I'm not sure about solder joints and movement, and exhaust because it rusts bad this far north (even the stainless stuff which I don't plan to pay for anyway). I've also heard of people using PVC, but that scares me a lot for the same reason the solder does. Ideas?

[bdavis441]

If you decide to not run a bed, you could do what I'm doing and move the whole cab rearward and ditch the front sheetmetal altogether. I've heard of guys using galvanized pipe with success. I would be afraid of PVC, personally. I'll use stainless tubing, I have access to some scrap from work. I think the galv. pipe would work okay, I'd rubber mount it and put some big hose barbs on the end (all hardware store stuff), should be fine. Another thing to consider is finding straight lengths of radiator hose, our buses use 30+ feet of hose for heaters with no problem, so If you can find it, it should work fine.

[the_experience03]

I might just have about 50 feet laying around (that's 25 feet supply, 25 feet return) and I had considered using that.

The sheetmetal stays....for now. Moving my cab back would be a ROYAL pain because as it is my steering box is snubbed against the front body mount. I would either have to hack the body mount and make something that would work (which I've seen, but never liked) or somehow get a Scout saginaw box to mate to Toyota high steer and a Toyota steering shaft, neither of which sounds particularly fun. I could probably get my pitman arm adapter reamed to fit a Scout pitman arm, but that still doesn't solve the steering shaft issue. Nothing is ever easy....

The way I figure it there will be a lot of torching, welding, and grinding involved. Notice I didn't say planning. I did the planning thing with my SAS and it still ended up taking a week and a half because parts suppliers didn't supply me with more than a receipt.

All Pro=excellent
Dunk's Performance (Sky vendor)=bad

Atleast Sky's parts were GREAT. Sure I could have built my own hanger, but what I got was NICE. I had to adapt it to run my front springs a little since 51 inch rears up front is the far less common route to go, but I'm happy.