Utilizing Space AT Rear of Bus

[budbud7]

I'm seeking input from Schoolies that have a bus similar to my 2nd bus. It is a 2007 International 300 RE, about 39 ft., bumper to bumper. I'm wondering how was the space in the engine area was converted. In my mind, what ever is done in this area, I need to consider the need for major engine work in the future. So what have you guys done. Pictures would be great. I cant seem to get my pictures to load.

[fo4imtippin]

I don't have a bus similar to that, but i have seen a lot of floorplans. 39ft is huge, i would build my wall in front of the whole thing and put my systems there. Inverter, water heater, diesel generator maybe (if i could still get it out from the inside or something in the future). Then you are insulating the hot noisy engine bay even more from things that don't need to take up conditioned space.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by budbud7

Attachment 66903

Attachment 66904


I'm seeking input from Schoolies that have a bus similar to my 2nd bus. It is a 2007 International 300 RE, about 39 ft., bumper to bumper. I'm wondering how was the space in the engine area was converted. In my mind, what ever is done in this area, I need to consider the need for major engine work in the future. So what have you guys done. Pictures would be great. I cant seem to get my pictures to load.

I have seen another posting here where the guy sealed in those air dams and opened up the side access door for air flow.
Either way, as far as major engine work in the future, it makes no difference which way you go as the access will remain the same.

Take a look at this thread, post #29...if you look closely at his pic you will see he did just that! Relocated the air intake to the doors below!

[Iceni John]

Whatever you do, do NOT block any of the engine access doors or hatches. Heck, I would even consider enlarging the existing doors or making new ones. When you need them, you REALLY need them! I'm thinking of cutting a new small hatch directly above my turbo for the day it goes tits-up on me.

John

[HamSkoolie]

You're lucky. It looks like the two seats are aligned. On our bus the right side of the engine bay protrudes further into the bus than the left side leaving a mess to sort out.
We are going to replace the rear emerg hatch window with a piece of steel or aluminum and modify the external release latch so that it can be locked. That space will then be the "garage" where my welder, plasma torch, sparess, and probably bulky items that aren't needed all the time.
We are debating whether to just build a wall or to take down our larger air intakes and move them to the door and probably just ahead of the door since the door doesn't have sufficient area to provide teh same amount of air.
One thing to consider, while many buses have air intakes in the doors or down low in other ways, the one with intakes higher up probably go through fewer air filters and if you plan a lot of dirt or sandy roads, you may want to keep them where they are.
Another thing to consider is to try not to put too much heavy gear up there as it's pretty high in the scheme of things.
And finally, it was mentioned as a location for systems. Any systems in the front of the bus would then have a 40' fun through everything. We're trying to put systems items, particularly the solar inputs, batteries, inverter, etc in a central location to shorten wire runs and minimize system inefficiencies/losses.

[Dbacks2k4]

Originally Posted by HamSkoolie

You're lucky. It looks like the two seats are aligned. On our bus the right side of the engine bay protrudes further into the bus than the left side leaving a mess to sort out.

They're offset, if you look closely at the center piece you can kinda tell, although difficult in this lighting. My 2005 REs that I'm turning into a party bus are the same way... A giant pain to work around!!

Originally Posted by Iceni John

Whatever you do, do NOT block any of the engine access doors or hatches.

John

On this body style there's no engine bay access from inside which makes it easier. Two exterior side doors and a rear hatch. And since the fuel tank is mounted towards the front door right behind the front axle, the sending unit access panel isnt a factor for the rear.

Originally Posted by budbud7

I'm seeking input from Schoolies that have a bus similar to my 2nd bus. It is a 2007 International 300 RE, about 39 ft., bumper to bumper. I'm wondering how was the space in the engine area was converted. In my mind, what ever is done in this area, I need to consider the need for major engine work in the future. So what have you guys done. Pictures would be great. I cant seem to get my pictures to load.

I've seen others move the air intakes and take down the towers on the left and right side, but I'd be wary of doing that. The coolant reservoir also sets pretty high in the engine compartment. If not done right it's pretty easy cause yourself engine problems.

My skoolie is a conventional so I don't have your issue, but if I were in your shoes I'd build an elevated bed platform as far back as you can1, then build shelving, drawers, and storage around the back window between the towers.

Alternatively you could build a little reading nook back there. It's already sloped, so add some cushions and a reading light. Put a screen on the back window and open it up for fresh air?

[budbud7]

Originally Posted by HamSkoolie

You're lucky. It looks like the two seats are aligned. On our bus the right side of the engine bay protrudes further into the bus than the left side leaving a mess to sort out.
We are going to replace the rear emerg hatch window with a piece of steel or aluminum and modify the external release latch so that it can be locked. That space will then be the "garage" where my welder, plasma torch, sparess, and probably bulky items that aren't needed all the time.
We are debating whether to just build a wall or to take down our larger air intakes and move them to the door and probably just ahead of the door since the door doesn't have sufficient area to provide teh same amount of air.
One thing to consider, while many buses have air intakes in the doors or down low in other ways, the one with intakes higher up probably go through fewer air filters and if you plan a lot of dirt or sandy roads, you may want to keep them where they are.
Another thing to consider is to try not to put too much heavy gear up there as it's pretty high in the scheme of things.
And finally, it was mentioned as a location for systems. Any systems in the front of the bus would then have a 40' fun through everything. We're trying to put systems items, particularly the solar inputs, batteries, inverter, etc in a central location to shorten wire runs and minimize system inefficiencies/losses.

I looked at the bus today, and the rear seats are offset. The on the left side of the motor is~ 6-7 inches out further than the other side.

i will pull the cover/padding off in that area and look it over for rust. Based on the other posts, it seems likely that there will be some rust from the air scoops on either/both sides of the bus.

In the end, it is likely that i will just have some storage back there.

[budbud7]

Dbacks2k4, my son wants my 1999 Thomas RE for a party bus too. i not ready to part wit it yet. what are your plans for the party bus? Custom bench seats, lots of lights, gigantic speakers and maybe 3 or 4 roof top ac units?

MY son is a DJ on the side, but converting party bus??

[Dbacks2k4]

Originally Posted by budbud7

Dbacks2k4, my son wants my 1999 Thomas RE for a party bus too. i not ready to part wit it yet. what are your plans for the party bus? Custom bench seats, lots of lights, gigantic speakers and maybe 3 or 4 roof top ac units?

MY son is a DJ on the side, but converting party bus??

I run a party bus company in Iowa with a fleet of 6. All converted 2001-2007 international school buses. 4 conventionals and 2 REs. I've had a dozen other types over the years I've learned some hard lessons on. There are pictures of the fleet on our website at www.thecitylimo.com. Custom bench seating, cupholders, led lights, phone chargers, and a decent size stereo. The two RE white buses have factory a/c units, but they're not operational at the moment. Right now it's not worth the hassle of dealing with a/c. Costly to fix and maintain, and bridezillas, mommyzillas, and Karens in general are never happy with the climate control. Same as with a skoolie, rv rooftop ac units at 10-15k btus running off a generator will not keep a bus cool traveling down the road. Many of my competitors have tried and failed. You need factory a/c at 100k+ btu.

It's not a business for the faint of heart or "easy money." Insurance is a nightmare and expensive. Our buses are $350/month each just for liability and I'm told by others in the industry that we have the cheapest insurance they've ever seen. There is no competition in the insurance space on these, there's really only one option so you're at their mercy. My current business partner was paying $700/mo per bus just for liability insurance before we merged our companies and became partners.

Our drivers must have a full class B CDL with passenger endorsement and air brakes to meet DOT requirements, but our insurance company adds the stipulation that they must also have held that CDL for a year before we can hire them. We also can't have drivers under the age of 25, or any driver with an accident within 5 years or a ticket within 3 years (including in a personal vehicle, not just a bus).

DOT regulations are complex to understand and abide to. For example, in Iowa, exhaust coming out the side of a school bus behind the rear tire is safe and allowed. But once converted the exhaust must be rerouted to the rear bumper. What's safe for school children isn't safe for intoxicated adults, haha. We have to random drug and alcohol test, keep mountains of paperwork, file and pay fuel and sales taxes, and inspect the buses at least annually. Commercial motor vehicle enforcement officers can stop our buses with passengers on board anytime they want for a random inspection. If anything in or on the bus, or with our paperwork, fails, the bus is out of service and can't be moved until the issue is remedied in addition to whatever fines or tickets they issue. The passengers are left stranded on the side of the road.

I'll stop my rant there, I can go on for hours about party buses haha! Feel free to ping me though if you want more of my party bus stories....

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by budbud7

I'm seeking input from Schoolies that have a bus similar to my 2nd bus. It is a 2007 International 300 RE, about 39 ft., bumper to bumper. I'm wondering how was the space in the engine area was converted. In my mind, what ever is done in this area, I need to consider the need for major engine work in the future. So what have you guys done. Pictures would be great. I cant seem to get my pictures to load.

-------------------


The saftey hoops, below our plastic cover, had been previously removed by our county transportation dept.


I cleaned up their cuts. Then made a new cover using the wall steel, removed during the demo.



Special tools used:
Tap measure
Tin snips
Ball peen hammer
C-Clamps
Scrap wood blocks

Please check out PNW_Steve's RE with mini-split mount over the engine.
www.skoolie.net/forums/pnw_steves-2002-bluebird-a3re
(see post #256 for pics)
*HAMskoolie, you might dig it, too.

[HamSkoolie]

Originally Posted by DeMac

-------------------The saftey hoops, below our plastic cover, had been previously removed by our county transportation dept..

We have the exact set up in the back of ours though not modified.
Are you sure those were safety hoops? They seemed to me to be structural components. I've been wondering how much I could cut down that center composite piece as we want to get the queen bed as far back on that ledge as possible.

[Bon Voyage]

I put the bed up top right at the back, the window was replaced with an RV window which also acts as an emergency exit. I don’t like how high the bed is but it was the best use of the space I could come up with.
The rear floor area is also raised up above the wheel wells with storage, fresh water, and batteries underneath.

It would take more room but it would be a little nicer to put the bed lower down against the backrest area.

[HamSkoolie]

Originally Posted by Bon Voyage

I put the bed up top right at the back, the window was replaced with an RV window which also acts as an emergency exit. I don’t like how high the bed is but it was the best use of the space I could come up with.
The rear floor area is also raised up above the wheel wells with storage, fresh water, and batteries underneath.

It would take more room but it would be a little nicer to put the bed lower down against the backrest area.

Exactly our dilemma. Even considered doing a roof raise only in the bedroom area to give us headroom above the bed with the mattress on the top shelf of the engine bay.
Instead it looks like it's going to be a garage back there with a bit of modification to the wall above the lower ledge. We will probably regret not doing the raise but that's just a whole lot of work, time, and $.
So the space between our intakes will be garage and the space above them will have a floor and become storage over the bed....estra bedding, seasonal clothing, etc. and the underside will be the garage. The rear emergency window will remain but the glass replaced with an aluminum or steel panel and the latch modified to make it secure.
We were actually just dealing with this and trying to figure out what tanks will work under the bed as we're wanting 200gal fresh under the bed.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by DeMac

-------------------


The saftey hoops, below our plastic cover, had been previously removed by our county transportation dept.


I cleaned up their cuts. Then made a new cover using the wall steel, removed during the demo.



Special tools used:
Tap measure
Tin snips
Ball peen hammer
C-Clamps
Scrap wood blocks

Please check out PNW_Steve's RE with mini-split mount over the engine.
www.skoolie.net/forums/pnw_steves-2002-bluebird-a3re
(see post #256 for pics)
*HAMskoolie, you might dig it, too.

Nice job on the sheetmetal work!

I did mine slightly different. I used the old ceiling skin and made removable/ insulated covers… just in case removal was ever required.

You can the pics on my build thread, posts 103 & 104.

9906 build thread

On the 2005 bus that we are doing an inframe, I thought we would need to go inside the bus in order to access the rear screws of the valve cover, head and exhaust.
Not required, we did it all from the engine compartment!

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by HamSkoolie

Even considered doing a roof raise only in the bedroom area to give us headroom above the bed with the mattress on the top shelf of the engine bay.
Instead it looks like it's going to be a garage back there with a bit of modification to the wall above the lower ledge. We will probably regret not doing the raise but that's just a whole lot of work, time, and $.

I like that idea & also consider it to be a large investment. The Ripple-bus is one of my favorites.


(TinTapping's Ripple)


*Also, ewo1 did a nice job on his 'hump delete", above. Looks pro.

[HamSkoolie]

Originally Posted by ewo1

Nice job on the sheetmetal work!

I did mine slightly different. I used the old ceiling skin and made removable/ insulated covers… just in case removal was ever required.

NICE WORK on that bus in the other thread.
To me it looks like the access is to get to the turbo and other items way back there and so it should be easily accessible.

Did you weld in the new framing with the engine installed (assuming so) and so how did you protect the engine from splatter?

[jjaj823]

So, I have an '04 RE300 and was also trying to figure out what to do. I considered removing the triangle areas completely and re-running the intakes as some had suggested and done, but in the end, I just built a raised bed platform with storage underneath. The drawers and internal frame are removable in case I ever need to gain access to the forward end of the engine. It won't be easy, but it's not like I'm doing it every day. For reference, the mattress is 8" thick and we have another 2" pad on it (not shown). I can sit up without fear of hitting my head, although I am only 5'8".

The pic below just shows the bed frame. I haven't gotten around to squaring off the triangle areas and installing the outlets on each side yet, but that is the plan.

In the end, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and would probably make the same decisions again. PM me if you have questions.

[HamSkoolie]

Where are the wheel wells? Our wheel wells are right at the bed.
I guess if yo have the mattress on the top level they might be where the camera is.
Is that a queen or a full?

[jjaj823]

Originally Posted by HamSkoolie

Where are the wheel wells? Our wheel wells are right at the bed.
I guess if yo have the mattress on the top level they might be where the camera is.
Is that a queen or a full?

My wheel wells are forward of the bed by about 2 feet. I am actually standing on the passenger side well to take the pic. Also, I should have mentioned that the bed is a double...it fits perfectly with enough room on each side on top of some 2x3 attached direct to the top of the engine compartment.

[HamSkoolie]

Originally Posted by jjaj823

My wheel wells are forward of the bed by about 2 feet. I am actually standing on the passenger side well to take the pic. Also, I should have mentioned that the bed is a double...it fits perfectly with enough room on each side on top of some 2x3 attached direct to the top of the engine compartment.

Okay that makes sense then. "Double" is now called "full". There is a "full XL" which is 5" longer than a standard full. A full is 54" wide and we tried one in a hotel on a trip a short time ago and we didn't have enough space so we're going with a queen. Queens are 60" ("Olympic Queens are 66"W) so we'll be cramped on the sides but the other half insists on being able to get around three sides of the bed.