Warn Engine light on 2004 dt466e

[CatawamBus]

Hey all,

Currently driving across the US with the end goal being Park City, UT. I was facing some heavy 45mph headwinds in the high plains outside of Laramie, WY and taxing her pretty hard to stay at 45. I looked down and to my dismay the "warn Engine" light is on. I pulled off and shut the bus off, checked the fluids and everything was good, gauges are where they are supposed to be. When I turned it back on the light was off, only to come back on again a few more strenuous miles later. I read some forums online about dt466e's throwing that light on when it's cold or when there's a short in a connector somewhere. Has anybody else had this issue/ do you think I can make it to Utah and figure it out when I'm home safe? Thanks in advance.

CatawamBus

[EastCoastCB]

Check your fluids!
How's the oil, the coolant?

You said the fluids are good, but double check. Usually that coming on during a hard pull is from low oil.

[cadillackid]

the WARN light doesnt normally illuminate from low oil or high temp... the red water / oil light will come on and beep if you over-heat the engine or run the lube oil pressure low..

you can read the code.. .when the light comes on.. press the diag button under the dash and the computer will flash the code out to you that is set... then we can look it up and point you in a direction...



everything from a voltage fault to a brake-light switch to a speed sensor can turn that light on...
-Christopher

[CatawamBus]

Alright checking back. All the fluids are good, the light usually comes on when I'm pinned at a high rpm, usually above 2k rpm, for an extended period of time for instance going up a hill. I found the diagnostic button underneath the steering column next to a round female connector. When I press the button nothing happens, do I need to have a reader plugged in in order for the button to work?

[cadillackid]

try starting with the bus off.. then turn the key to on but not start engine. and press the diag button.. see if it will flash a code... the code may not be active but could strill be stored in history and flash out.
-Christopher

[Johnny Mullet]

I agree with cadillackid. Turn key ON. Don not start. Press and hold diag button. Record blink codes. Post results here.

[CatawamBus]

Hey guys sorry for the delay I've been a bit preoccupied. So I recorded the engine light. It's coming on in combination with the oil/water light when I press the diagnostic button. The oil is good, but the coolant is just above the add line. I thought it would be fine because the coolant is above the line but maybe this is the issue? https://youtu.be/bqrta8krI8Y this is a video of the code the diagnostic button throws.

[cadillackid]

code 333 which is an ICP code.. it means the sensor ewas abocve or beklow its considered normak threshold..



your ICP is the high pressure oil that actuates the fuel injectors.. the ICP is the sensor which tells the computer what the actual hiogh pressure is.. if the sensor is bad it will read out of range.. often at a time when the most demand is on it.. an out of range condition occured possibly because when you pin it the actual HPOP pressure is at its highest ppint.. if the sensor is bad its possible that its reading a value thats incorrect even though the computer is asking for pressure X, the sensors reads back a value out of range..





OK now onto the next possibility.. that the actual HPOP system cant supply enough high pressure oil to give the engine the pressure it is requesting.. so the ICP sensor reads low.. computer is requesting 2500 PSI at 100% and ICP reads back 1500 PSI (as examples).. so the light trips... and quite possibily you feel a loss of power in the engine at full throttle..



so lets talk about which parts effect this..



1. the ICP is the sensor that tells the computer what the HPOP pressure is
2. the IPR valve is what actually allows the oil to flow or not flow into the rail generating the pressure.

3. the HPOP Pump which actually pumps up the pressure...



the ICP and IPR are common failure points on these engines (as well as the T-444E).. the ICP is the easiest and least expensive to change..

and example


https://www.fordiesels.com/navistar-...RoCElsQAvD_BwE


https://www.amazon.com/HOOAI-Injecti.../dp/B01I7ZSOMA






so thats the one to start with. the next possible failure is generally the IPR..



an example..
https://www.amazon.com/1841217C91-In.../dp/B06ZZPQ6NX


its possible that the HPOP is worn.. but that isnt near as likely..



also be sure your engine oil is nice and clean and that your dashboard oil pressure is not running WAY low when driving.. if your engine oil pressure is showing really low like 15-20 at high RPM then you may have other issues more severe.. since you didnt mention oil pressure im assuming its good.



-Christopher

[CatawamBus]

Christopher, I can't thank you enough for all that info, really appreciate it. I ordered the ICP and it should be here pretty soon. I found some pictures online of its location, I'll take a look under the hood after work today and see if I can find it. When it comes to the replacement, is it just a simple unplug and unscrew?