Wood stove pipe clearance to wall.

[arfisher83]

I have purchased everything I need to install a large wood stove in our basement. However, I have one question: Does sheetrock reduce the clearance necessary on a wood-framed wall? My guidelines say that single-wall pipe should be kept a minimum of 18" from an unprotected wall. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't sheetrock considered a fire-resistant barrier? Therefore, wouldn't I be able to reduce my clearance less than 18"? Please let me know your opinions. Thank you very much.

-Adam

[ezbme]

Adam,
Ditto on Smitty, check codes. We have no codes where we live. A double or triple wall pipe going thru the wall will allow less clearance but talk with a specialist first!

I just installed a wood stove in our cabin 4 days ago. The cabin is all wood including the floors. We installed a Vogelzang Boxwood stove (google it) & they recommended 36" but we went with 16" to the closest walls. The floor is covered with cement board & on top of the cement board is natural rock from the property (we are in NM) & it averages 6" thick. The walls also have cement board that is spaced 1" from the wall for cool air flow. The cement board on the floor extends 10" on the sides of the stove & 18" to the front. The walls it extends up from the stove about 10". We have had fires in it almost around the clock & I have been a stickler about checking for any very hot spots & there are none. It is working perfectly & man it is toasty!
I cannot guarantee that this will work for you & all i am doing is sharing our info with you... It may differ for you depending on your stove. Be safe!

I just found a photo of it almost complete.


Jonathan

[paul iossi]

Siitty's right, most 5/8 drywall is rated fire resistant but that only gives you a 1 hour burn thru limit, if you heat it continually the burn time goes down to less than 1 hour. follow your local building code and or fire departments recommendations, also be sure to protect the ceiling above the stove from radiant heat.

In the past I've fed a lot of wood burners and if i was to feed one again it would be a stand alone boiler setup out in the back yard away from the house from both a safety and mess standpoint, buy your wood in the spring by the semi load (8' toothpicks) and take all summer to cut and stack it using an electric chainsaw and splitter no vehicles or engines to take out to the woods to use and abuse.

[ezbme]

Originally Posted by paul iossi

Siitty's right, most 5/8 drywall is rated fire resistant but that only gives you a 1 hour burn thru limit, if you heat it continually the burn time goes down to less than 1 hour. follow your local building code and or fire departments recommendations, also be sure to protect the ceiling above the stove from radiant heat.

I agree with paul... Every installation seems to be different in my experience & really the best route is to follow the manufacturers recommendations & you must follow code to be sure that insurance will cover you if there is any mishap.
Paul, if you put a boiler outside away from the house how do you vent the heat inside? I like that idea as we have such a small place & the stove takes up a bit too much space. Also, what kind of boiler are you talking about? We will be expanding the cabin in summer & the current stove is temporary as that room will have a roof raise...

Jonathan

[paul iossi]

outside boilers are just that, do a google search for local sources, they boil/heat liquid that is then pumped into the building just like a conventional boiler hot water radiant heat system using old fashioned ast iron radiators or the new version is pex tubing in an insulated concrete slab or under a conventional floor that is is insulated underneath and/or has a reflective barrier to direct the heat into the living space see radiantech online for more info.

I insulated under and installed tubing in the concrete basement floor of my energystar house when i built it last year, it's not hooked up yet but its there for if and when gas gets much more expensive.

Boilers are available here in Mi that burn wood, logs up to 4', wood pellets, corn, corncobs etc, the pellet burners can be had with a self feeding auger setup you fill the hopper and the auger/stoker feeds the fire on demand, you can also get a gas/propane standby burner setup so that you don't have be home to feed the fire all the time

It's still most efficient to make the building air tight and well insulated first.

[ezbme]

Thanks Smitty & Paul for the lesson!

I didn't get the chance to research but my wife told me how she thought it worked & hit the nail on the head! I will consider this as there is nothing like a radiant floor. Growing up I had 2 friends that had it in their houses in Pa & there is nothing like running around barefoot in the house, at night, in the winter! I have to say you sparked some interest!

Jonathan

[paul iossi]

Again, Smitty hit the nail on the head, I didn't hook up the radiant heat because of the need of A/C to pacify the financial weenies and the wife, so I had to have forced air installed, got a sweet deal so I can't complain to loud, but I never got the A/C condenser installed and the install isn't pretty either. the up side is that with the tight energy star envelope and insullation along with lots of natural ventilation and some large shade trees I don't miss the A/C except about 2 days a year.

[arfisher83]

Thank you everyone for your advice. I have checked with my insurance company and the fire department, and I have had all my questions answered. Thank you.

-Adam