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-   -   EastCoastCB's Shorty Thread (https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/eastcoastcbs-shorty-thread-17069.html)

Robin97396 06-10-2017 11:29 PM

If you're going to take a trip across the country sometime you're almost sure to find another door during the trip.

Is this the same mower you got?

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...7PAva7Gg0wSCUF 640 480 - govliquidation.com


I can't tell if this one is diesel or not.

EastCoastCB 06-10-2017 11:57 PM

No I'm not a big fan of Toro. We use some brand new commercial Toros, but I don't buy them.
The mower I just got is a Sarlo.
https://i.imgur.com/nGxGMSw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Dg2l4Av.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/auQWHh2.jpg

EastCoastCB 06-10-2017 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robin97396 (Post 208377)
If you're going to take a trip across the country sometime you're almost sure to find another door during the trip.

Is this the same mower you got?

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...7PAva7Gg0wSCUF 640 480 - govliquidation.com


I can't tell if this one is diesel or not.

I had one of those. A 36".
The belt drive tore up yards real bad. Parts were imossible to find, too.
The engine is worth more than the mower, according to the guy I sold it to from CL.

Robin97396 06-11-2017 12:17 AM

I was interested in one of those small diesel engines, like in your new to you mower, as a power source for a small diesel generator. Wasn't sure of the brand. Thanks.

EastCoastCB 06-11-2017 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robin97396 (Post 208385)
I was interested in one of those small diesel engines, like in your new to you mower, as a power source for a small diesel generator. Wasn't sure of the brand. Thanks.

They sell generators with these engines.
https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1LEmUK...-generator.jpg

Robin97396 06-11-2017 12:45 AM

That would be one of my top pics anyway. Maybe I won't re-invent the wheel this time?

tobeamiss 06-11-2017 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 208211)
I cut the rust hole out of the back, and the entire inside behind it

I have the same stuff going on here. Everyone (my family) says that I should probably remove the inside wall as well and get at it from that angle too. I really didn't want to do that but it looks like I might have to!!
Oh wait...Is that the rust on your door?
Mine is under the license plate and on the other side under the tail lights.


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cadillackid 06-11-2017 07:15 AM

When BGA painted the dev bus, they took out the window , and worked some of the rust from the light holes , mine was more around the window frame.

I'm wondering if you suck out as much loose as you can, then ospho the heck out of everything in there,,and cover the outside corners with like diamond plate or such. Resealing the lights and window should stop new water from getting in.
Christopher

EastCoastCB 06-11-2017 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 208403)
When BGA painted the dev bus, they took out the window , and worked some of the rust from the light holes , mine was more around the window frame.

I'm wondering if you suck out as much loose as you can, then ospho the heck out of everything in there,,and cover the outside corners with like diamond plate or such. Resealing the lights and window should stop new water from getting in.
Christopher

That's more or less our plan.
We got some of the GOOD Rust Reformer coming, will use it liberally.
Probably gonna remove the interior panel behind the damage and asses it from there.
The hinges are REALLY rusty and the metal they screw into is deteriorating.
May have to REALLY rebuild the ass end on that side!:nonono:

Brewerbob 06-12-2017 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 208192)
Thanks I'll try them monday. I REALLY NEED THAT WC DOOR SEAL!

Thomas, International, and Blue Bird were at the scrap yard that I wandered Sat. They had a few with WC doors. No Am Tran buses. Is your door the same as any of those? Is it replaceable with any of those? The ones I opened and looked at all had flat gaskets. Stupid easy to replace so those couldn't be the same.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 208211)
I cut the rust hole out of the back, and the entire inside behind it was completely crumbling with rust.

Ouch that's some nasty stuff there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 208375)
Everything in that rear wall under the window that wasn't galvanized rusted completely away. GONE!
The rest of the bus is virtually rust free. only the WC door and service door have any real rust otherwise.

Without seeing it first hand, you're going to need to do some SERIOUS rebuild or bite the bullet for a new door especially without a metal brake, hammers, ... hell a metal fab shop.

EastCoastCB 06-12-2017 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brewerbob (Post 208568)
Thomas, International, and Blue Bird were at the scrap yard that I wandered Sat. They had a few with WC doors. No Am Tran buses. Is your door the same as any of those? Is it replaceable with any of those? The ones I opened and looked at all had flat gaskets. Stupid easy to replace so those couldn't be the same.


Ouch that's some nasty stuff there.



Without seeing it first hand, you're going to need to do some SERIOUS rebuild or bite the bullet for a new door especially without a metal brake, hammers, ... hell a metal fab shop.

I think the door can be repaired. I can get a new, fabricated lower edge of the door from a bus body parts supplier for $115.
All I'm REALLY NEEDING really bad is the seal around the door. That sucker's elusive!

Tootalltechie 06-12-2017 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 208570)
I think the door can be repaired. I can get a new, fabricated lower edge of the door from a bus body parts supplier for $115.
All I'm REALLY NEEDING really bad is the seal around the door. That sucker's elusive!

Have you tried these guys?

https://www.busparts.com/doors.html

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Brewerbob 06-12-2017 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 208570)
I think the door can be repaired. I can get a new, fabricated lower edge of the door from a bus body parts supplier for $115.
All I'm REALLY NEEDING really bad is the seal around the door. That sucker's elusive!

Does this mean you are cutting the door in half and welding the bottom back on? And have it straight... <-- me and straight is what I'd worry about.

At that point, wouldn't it be easier to build a door from scratch and/or modify the hinges of another?

EastCoastCB 06-12-2017 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tootalltechie (Post 208581)
Have you tried these guys?

School Bus Door Parts

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk

YES. They've been suggested several times in this thread.
I've called them and they actually don't have anything for my bus at all.
They don't even have any amtran parts, just a few. IDK why they say they have amtran parts when they really don't.
Super friendly folks, but they have nothing.

EastCoastCB 06-12-2017 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brewerbob (Post 208585)
Does this mean you are cutting the door in half and welding the bottom back on? And have it straight... <-- me and straight is what I'd worry about.

At that point, wouldn't it be easier to build a door from scratch and/or modify the hinges of another?

Its a repair panel. Pretty easy to fix, man. Body shops do this stuff all the time.
Its a pretty common rust area according to the folks I talked to.International - Amtram | Custom Bus and Truck Panels

they have this-
Quote:

Part # INAT112
INAT112 Handicap door repair cap for bottom of door. 44" L X 7" T
you cut away the rusty flanged bottom and weld the new pieces in. Smooth the joints and it would look good as new.
They're also going to be selling the whole door soon. But I'd imagine that sucker is expensive.

Brewerbob 06-12-2017 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 208589)
Its a repair panel. Pretty easy to fix, man. Body shops do this stuff all the time.
Its a pretty common rust area according to the folks I talked to.International - Amtram | Custom Bus and Truck Panels

Link is just a frame (no graphics). Replacing skin doesn't worry me. Replacing framing does. Keeping it square and true. Especially something like a door that's hinged and loaded weird. Granted you're replacing the bottom, not the hinged side but still.

Guess I need more practice. I'd love to find a scrap yard full of stuff like that (doors, windows, whatever) and just go to town practicing. I think I am going to go back to the scrap yard with the buses. They had some angle iron and square tubing. I think the tubing was 1 1/2" stuff. They had some 2" thick walled stuff too. I should get a bunch for building more basement storage and/or racks for water tanks. The guy quoted me 25 cent a lb. I know the scrap price for selling is only 4 cents a lb but I've no idea if that's a good price for buying or not.

Robin97396 06-12-2017 11:51 AM

Out here they charge 50 cents a pound for usable scrap. The scrap yards have developed a whole side industry out of setting up a usable scrap steel yard to select items from.

Brewerbob 06-12-2017 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robin97396 (Post 208604)
Out here they charge 50 cents a pound for usable scrap. The scrap yards have developed a whole side industry out of setting up a usable scrap steel yard to select items from.

They can suck some nuts!!! 4 cents to 25 cents is a 650% profit. How many companies can claim that?

chev49 06-12-2017 01:20 PM

another thing that works for decal removal is ones 4000 lb hot water pressure washer, and is the same thing for removing decals, grease on heavy equipment prior to resale
t

Brewerbob 06-12-2017 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chev49 (Post 208615)
another thing that works for decal removal is ones 4000 lb hot water pressure washer, and is the same thing for removing decals, grease on heavy equipment prior to resale
t

4000 and hot?!? That'll remove flesh from bone while cooking it. Honey have you seen the cat lately?:whistling:


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