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EastCoastCB 03-28-2017 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 193551)
ECCB - I moved this cooling thread over here as I think we were starting to jack the food truck dude's thread..

my thinking and path is similar.. the idea for mine is
pull the radiator and have it looked at to see if its a mess.. (before I spend big $$ on a new one..).. most radiator shops will look at em cheap..

replace the water pump and LPOP(with an m208).... look in my Oil cooler to see if it looks in good shape or not.. ICP and IPR since the front will be accessible.(about once every 3 weeks I do set an ICP code for the first 2 minutes I start the bus).. new A/C belt and new Serp belt..

if my rad is shot I'll replace that..

if I still run warm im going to install an EC-450 Clutch I can run off the computer and not worry about the 1/2 rad stuff.. as the fan will control via coolant temp and not air temp from the rad.

my tensioner is already new, fan clutch is new.

-Christopher

P.S. when you get ready to tear apart, let me know, I have the special wrenches you need to get the Fan clutch hub nut loose from the water pump.

Very cool, I'll let ya know. Those will be handy to have!
Yeah, I'm planning pretty much the same thing as you but I'm expecting the worst due to the age, mileage, hours, and physical appearance of the rad.

cadillackid 03-28-2017 09:57 PM

my temp gauge on the dash is also inaccurate... on the low end it reads too low.. on the high end it reads too high...

the gauge works from the computer sensor.. there is no separate sensor for the dash gauge.. ive seen my gauge reading right in the middle between the 1/4 mark and 1/2 mark (175 and 210).. the computer will show the temp at say 200.. then bam the gauge movesd very quickly up and past the 210 mark to estimated 215.. yet the computer shows the temp went from 200-202..

the real tell tale omn yours is we need to read the computer and see if the gauge matches.. or if in fact you are running cooler..

Ive matched my computer sensor t oactual temp usingf my 'ray gun' and they are pretty much dead on together...
-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-04-2017 10:37 AM

So after a week or two now of normal use, the wipers are DEFINITELY fixed!
No weirdness with em any more.
I'm gonna replace a bad looking connector to my front right heater, and see if that resolves my heater gremlin. Certainly needs doing, either way.
Not that I NEED the heater for about 6 or 8 months now.

I went to remove the WC lift yesterday, but after playing with it and testing it out, I'm gona keep it, at least for now.
The whole thing is in great shape and works great too. THe front side of the base is rusted a good bit, gonna see what a wire brushing and some Ospho do.

Anyone know where I could find a rust free WC door for an AmTran?

Stewzer55 04-05-2017 07:56 AM

Ball-peen hammer and a catcher's mitt. You've got a good welder!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

EastCoastCB 04-05-2017 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stewzer55 (Post 194929)
Ball-peen hammer and a catcher's mitt. You've got a good welder!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

true that...
I'm just hoping to find a cheap nice one and do it the easy way, for a change.

EastCoastCB 04-08-2017 04:55 PM

Opened up the WC door, let down the lift and gave the rust a healthy dose of wire wheel, then doused it in Ospho heavily. Will let that do its thing for a day or two then I'll spray it with some black rustoleum rust converter stuff, then regular black topcoat.
WC lift is cool, works great, and could be REALLY handy especially since we love our mopeds so much!
On the WC lift- do they normally rattle around and rock back and forth? Mines a rattly annoyance while driving.

DoubleO7 04-08-2017 05:24 PM

My 98 International with Ricon lift is silent.
But it looks like it was not used enough to wear the paint off the high points of the expanded metal floor.
Maybe yours has worn bushings at all of the hinge points.

EastCoastCB 04-08-2017 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoubleO7 (Post 195543)
My 98 International with Ricon lift is silent.
But it looks like it was not used enough to wear the paint off the high points of the expanded metal floor.
Maybe yours has worn bushings at all of the hinge points.

Maybe so. Thing looks nearly new, though. Definitely wiggles and wobbles around when on the road.
Still may ditch it, but IDK. Having fun with it for now.
Thanks for the reply, that's what I was afraid of!

DoubleO7 04-08-2017 05:34 PM

When it is in the stowed position ratchet strap it to the wall.

EastCoastCB 04-08-2017 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoubleO7 (Post 195549)
When it is in the stowed position ratchet strap it to the wall.

I may try this if pool noodles don't quiet it.

Robin97396 04-08-2017 08:12 PM

I found that stuffing old couch cushions in between the lift and the door stopped most of the noise on the older lifts. They sound like a traveling pile of scrap.

EastCoastCB 04-09-2017 02:13 PM

May try that, Robin.

Since I ran it out of fuel recently and had a $10 off card for O'reillys, I got a new fuel filter, some "bug remover" washer fluid, some Diesel Kleen, and some diesel specific cooling system additive.
Added a quart and a half of oil to bring it up to perfect level this am.

EastCoastCB 04-09-2017 03:55 PM

The old filter was pretty nasty, as was expected. Looks like sludge, gunk, and algae are covering the element pretty well.
Drove it down the road to the Citgo that has diesel for $2.40/gallon and filled it up after adding a nice dose of Diesel Kleen.
She's purring like a kitten, as usual.
Having a jug of diesel on hand was sure nice when it came time to put the new filter in!
Roxy cleaned all the windows inside with Invisible Glass, and swept the floors.

Can't wait to see if there's any noticeable difference from the coolant additive. I doubt it, but it was a quart low anyhow and that's how much came in the bottle.

Next on the list of maintenance stuff this week or next weekend will be greasing all the fittings all under the bus and maybe a new air filter. I'm planning on doing a full oil change in about 1000 miles, but maybe sooner since summer is here. Been topping off with Rotella. Will probably go with Rural King stuff I've got gallons of when I do change it out.

cadillackid 04-09-2017 06:40 PM

when i get back there, I'll adjust your fan clutch temp down to the lowest setting so it should spin more... you also can probably go 25/75 on your coolant / water mix too being in florida.. people report decent cooling gains by having more distilled water vs coolant in mainly hot weather climates...

im going to test the cold-worthiness of various mix levels before i refill mine.. i havent flushed it yet as i want coolant in the engine until im ready to put it back together so i dont have rusting in the engine.. im going to garden hose flush the system, then put some food colors in my jugs of distilled.. and pour those in various places of the engine till i see the red / pink color run out and assume im close enough to being distilled vs tap water.. then mix my coolant in till i reach the hygrometer reading ...
-Christopher

Robin97396 04-09-2017 06:46 PM

I've seen people use 100% coolant. It didn't turn out well.

cadillackid 04-09-2017 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robin97396 (Post 195698)
I've seen people use 100% coolant. It didn't turn out well.


it doesnt.. pure water doesnt turn out well either... from a corrosion standpoint ..
-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-09-2017 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 195696)
when i get back there, I'll adjust your fan clutch temp down to the lowest setting so it should spin more... you also can probably go 25/75 on your coolant / water mix too being in florida.. people report decent cooling gains by having more distilled water vs coolant in mainly hot weather climates...

im going to test the cold-worthiness of various mix levels before i refill mine.. i havent flushed it yet as i want coolant in the engine until im ready to put it back together so i dont have rusting in the engine.. im going to garden hose flush the system, then put some food colors in my jugs of distilled.. and pour those in various places of the engine till i see the red / pink color run out and assume im close enough to being distilled vs tap water.. then mix my coolant in till i reach the hygrometer reading ...
-Christopher

Oh, yeah man here in FL I've always ran something like 75/25 h2o/antifreeze.

cadillackid 04-09-2017 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 195711)
Oh, yeah man here in FL I've always ran something like 75/25 h2o/antifreeze.

that shorty is probably 50/50 as it comes from COlorado... even in ohio you can typically run 25/75.
-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-09-2017 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 195712)
that shorty is probably 50/50 as it comes from COlorado... even in ohio you can typically run 25/75.
-Christopher

It was a couple quarts low, so was topped off with distilled when I got it. Its always been about a quart low, but within the normal range so todays additive topped it off perfectly.

I may do a full flush here before too long, just for the hell of it. But I wanted to see what the miracle coolant additive would do for now.

cadillackid 04-09-2017 09:58 PM

I got some too as well, we need to make your fan spin if it doesn't already.
Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-13-2017 06:24 PM

Yeah definitely wanna see what you can do with this fan of mine.

Drove McShortface out to meet some forum members today and show them the RYO bus. Lizbitz67 is REALLY nice... A really cool couple from NC passing through FL. I just LOVE visitors, especially visitors who like to talk BUSES!
Safe travels, yall.

cadillackid 04-13-2017 09:22 PM

Sweet!!! I love meeting fellow skoolies too! There are some in st Pete area, haven't seen them seem interested in meeting yet, soon the fan testing on my end will kick into high gear, I got the bus 90% pit back together , new harness is run to. Clutch, oil pump water pump new belts new clutch and blade all back together, new blade even fit the shroud without mods. Flush and refilled the coolant with the new amsoil ELC. Tomorrow I should have the wiring all finished in the dash and just need to refill the heater loops separate .. if it doesn't rain I may be able to start the bus and test. Supposed to be 80 Saturday here so I'll know once I get the air out of the poking system if it's better, oh yeah gotta. Ha he the oil, but that's easy.

Hoping to be on my way to Florida in time for Ocala. Are you going?
Christoher

EastCoastCB 04-13-2017 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 196461)
Sweet!!! I love meeting fellow skoolies too! There are some in st Pete area, haven't seen them seem interested in meeting yet, soon the fan testing on my end will kick into high gear, I got the bus 90% pit back together , new harness is run to. Clutch, oil pump water pump new belts new clutch and blade all back together, new blade even fit the shroud without mods. Flush and refilled the coolant with the new amsoil ELC. Tomorrow I should have the wiring all finished in the dash and just need to refill the heater loops separate .. if it doesn't rain I may be able to start the bus and test. Supposed to be 80 Saturday here so I'll know once I get the air out of the poking system if it's better, oh yeah gotta. Ha he the oil, but that's easy.

Hoping to be on my way to Florida in time for Ocala. Are you going?
Christoher

We're goin to YellowXJ's on the 22nd, yes.
Cant wait to see you and your bus, I'm very interested to see how your cooling system does and I'd love to have you look at my engine with your computer if possible.
You think you'll make it there?

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 06:54 AM

One day, I'm gona end up putting one of these in a shorty for the fun of it.

https://media.sandhills.com/img.axd?...h10PYIw%2bw%3d
https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/...1989-cat-3406b
Maybe find an older shorty with a bad engine... swap in the big Cat and a ten speed.
I dream of this bus from time to time.
It would use a lot of fuel, but man it would be BADASS.

cadillackid 04-17-2017 07:13 AM

thered be more engine than bus!.. you could take it to the track and bust hard in the 1/8 mile LOL.. or at least have good 300 ft times..
-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 197119)
thered be more engine than bus!.. you could take it to the track and bust hard in the 1/8 mile LOL.. or at least have good 300 ft times..
-Christopher

I'd LOVE to have a hot rod shorty!
I also think we could all have fun doing a 1/4 mile night at some drag strip with our buses. Imagine- "annual skoolie drags". :thumb:
If this year goes well like I'm hoping, I'll get this going next year.
I'm thinking a 6-8 window CE bus of some kind (something cool), and this drivetrain would be a real dandy. The firewall would likely be cut, and a doghouse could be added. Imagine a larger version of a Thomas Vista sort of setup.
Or even some radical mid engine design built from a FE bus.
Maybe I'll keep my McShortface so long, one day I'll HAVE to replace the engine and I'll just go apeshit on modding it!?:smile:

cadillackid 04-17-2017 07:51 AM

a Hotrod bus was what I had started with my first bus... the little Bluebird with a 454... before i lost interest in it I had built up the 454 to some extent...

it did Squeal the tires....

But a Coal-Rollin Diesel Hotrod bus sounds mega-fun!

peter-bilt style stacks comin up right next to the windshield..
-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 197125)
a Hotrod bus was what I had started with my first bus... the little Bluebird with a 454... before i lost interest in it I had built up the 454 to some extent...

it did Squeal the tires....

But a Coal-Rollin Diesel Hotrod bus sounds mega-fun!

peter-bilt style stacks comin up right next to the windshield..
-Christopher

Stacks will be a MUST.

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 03:59 PM

Just got back form Oreilly's. Ms McShortface is getting an oil change this afternoon.
Other than there being nearly 5 gallons of oil in it, shouldn't be too bad.
Plenty of room to get under it!

Robin97396 04-17-2017 04:07 PM

How difficult do you think it would be to replace a 5.9 with that 8.3?

Also, why would you want to put a cat in your bus? Previously cats were one of my favorite engines to work on, but then I wasn't buying the parts.

cadillackid 04-17-2017 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 197309)
Just got back form Oreilly's. Ms McShortface is getting an oil change this afternoon.
Other than there being nearly 5 gallons of oil in it, shouldn't be too bad.
Plenty of room to get under it!


its an easy oil change to do... use the WIX 51734 or Napa FIL 1734 filter... dont use the XE... the microns are too small and it ends up stopped up way too quick. be sure to fill up the filter before you screw it on, or you run the risk of running the HPOP dry on startup. you'll probably notice it running quieter after you oil it up... I run Rotella T 15W40 in mine and it runs like a champ. mine takes a little less than 5 gallons.. in fact I accidentilly over filled mine this time by a couple quarts.. its way up on the stick.. im sure I'll blow a little through my oil recirculator till it leaks down over time..

this one's for you EC, for starting the Bus to Starbucks trend..

https://www.skoolie.net/attachments/p...b042837040.jpg

-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robin97396 (Post 197313)
How difficult do you think it would be to replace a 5.9 with that 8.3?

Also, why would you want to put a cat in your bus? Previously cats were one of my favorite engines to work on, but then I wasn't buying the parts.

I want a BIG, mechanical old school class 8 Cat. The 3406 is a LEGEND. One of the BEST engines ever put in a rig.:thumb:
I'd not bother swapping a 5.9 in an FE rig, but if I had one in a conventional and it went out, I'd definitely look into an 8.3 swap.
Heck, maybe I'll settle for an 8.3 shorty some day.
But my DREAM bus is a 6 window with class 8 drivetrain swap. :dance:

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 197319)
its an easy oil change to do... use the WIX 51734 or Napa FIL 1734 filter... dont use the XE... the microns are too small and it ends up stopped up way too quick. be sure to fill up the filter before you screw it on, or you run the risk of running the HPOP dry on startup. you'll probably notice it running quieter after you oil it up... I run Rotella T 15W40 in mine and it runs like a champ. mine takes a little less than 5 gallons.. in fact I accidentilly over filled mine this time by a couple quarts.. its way up on the stick.. im sure I'll blow a little through my oil recirculator till it leaks down over time..

this one's for you EC, for starting the Bus to Starbucks trend..

https://www.skoolie.net/attachments/p...b042837040.jpg

-Christopher

NICE!
I like where this is going... gimme a little while to roll my own, and I wanna start a "Bus Ride Game" thread. I'll put the rules etc all together. It will be FUN!!!
Nothing beats the looks from the starbucks crowd when you roll up in a diesel shorty!:thumb:

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 05:46 PM

I didn't fill the filter, but I'll remember that next time. I'm planning on doing 6000 mile intervals, since I drive it a lot and oil is cheap.
Stuff that came out didn't look terrible for used diesel oil, but not knowing the last time it was changed and having it come all the way here from Colorado, changing it has been on my to-do list since I've gotten it home.
Gonna hit Tractor Supply tonight or tomorrow for some HotShots oil additive. May as well while its ten bucks off a fifty dollar jug!
I wouldn't even bother, but if Sojourner says its AWESOME, I believe him. He's a no-nonsense kinda guy, like me.
Not too many folks change their bus oil in their driveway, but I just did and life is blissful.:biggrin:

https://i.imgur.com/IMZXeQd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Aoi12AN.jpg

Checked and adjusted my tire pressure, and went ahead and cleaned the wheels and tires. Shaun used some high dollar tire conditioner stuff... They look amazing... like new!
https://i.imgur.com/nA58fER.jpg

Robin97396 04-17-2017 06:13 PM

Yeah, I think we all see people with bus envy when we're in town.

Kubla 04-17-2017 06:34 PM

3406 CAT weights about 3000 pounds all by itself, almost 3 times the weight of your current engine, and you would be much faster with an automatic behind it over a 10 speed, having driven semi's with both

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kubla (Post 197378)
3406 CAT weights about 3000 pounds all by itself, almost 3 times the weight of your current engine, and you would be much faster with an automatic behind it over a 10 speed, having driven semi's with both

I know, I know. But this same chassis has had MUCH heavier engines than just the 444 put into it. It would require a LOT of work and total modding of a ton of stuff.
But folks have done way crazier stuff than this. Its doable, and I just GOTTA have one some day. Even if I have to go RE or design some mid engine setup.
After RYO is finished... then I'll get real serious and make it happen. If a guy can turn a bus into an albatross, this should be a piece of cake!
THe ten speed is optional... Auto would be much easier to do for sure.
I've been looking into it and I'm pretty sure it really wouldn't be THAT bad a swap, for what it is.

Robin97396 04-17-2017 06:55 PM

That would be interesting to put a 3000 lb engine in a medium duty truck. Keep an eye out for and extra leaf spring or two for that front axle. I say it's doable.

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robin97396 (Post 197386)
That would be interesting to put a 3000 lb engine in a medium duty truck. Keep an eye out for and extra leaf spring or two for that front axle. I say it's doable.

Hell while I'm dreaming and "building sandcastles" I may as well put a full air ride setup in the front, to be more badass, and it could be designed around all the extra weight.
What's an extra half ton or so on a bus?? meh!
My dt466 was available in these shorties and its nearly 2000 lbs, isn't it?

Robin97396 04-17-2017 07:44 PM

Well, when you put it that way... Even with factory suspension the extra weight should make it ride smoother.

I'm mathamatically challenged.

cadillackid 04-17-2017 07:55 PM

ha!! changing oil in driveway that was me!!! 2 days ago....

I go with the 6000 mile oil drain also.. with filter changes every 2000 on Redbyrd and 3000 on DEV.. (DEV has 2 filters..)...

the filters are so easy to get to on these busses its a 5 minute job to do...

I am going to get some HotShotSecret also.. since the oil is fresh it seems like a good time to put some in. simncde i overfilled I'll have to drain some out... or I'll be way over-full.. LOL..
-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 09:24 PM

I put in about 4 gallons, plus a quart...
Then I waited fifteen mins and filled it with another quart and a half. PERFECT, and on the first try, even!
Went with my trusty, CHEAP 5 gallon jug of Rural King heavy duty diesel oil. Its CJ-4 rated, so its perfectly suited for my engines. 15w40 in 5 gallon pails are on sale for $24.95! So- with filter and oil the whole oil change cost me a whopping $54 total!
I've got a partial gallon jug of rotella for top-offs. I've also got a big jug of some fancy 5w40 amsoil super special synthetic I may try out sometime.
I'll add that HotShot's stuff this week, since the oil and filter are fresh. Supposed to go heavy on it for the first treatment, then use less on subsequent oil changes.
Took Roxy to Chipotle for a quick easy dinner since we were both exhausted. The kids that work there always ask how our bus projects are going! Seems everyone smiles when you show up in a bus.

cadillackid 04-17-2017 09:30 PM

whenb i talked to the AMSoil guy on the phone last weekl... we talked about that very 5w40 oil... the big thing talked aboiut in using it on old engines is it is a high detergent oil... doing its job it will clean your engine... including any dirt that might be keeping seals from leaking... something to keep in mind...

-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-17-2017 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 197441)
whenb i talked to the AMSoil guy on the phone last weekl... we talked about that very 5w40 oil... the big thing talked aboiut in using it on old engines is it is a high detergent oil... doing its job it will clean your engine... including any dirt that might be keeping seals from leaking... something to keep in mind...

-Christopher

I've never had any of the problems others have reported when running synthetics. Even 0W-grades. Of course, not in diesels.
That oil cleaner is probably just as likely to do what you're saying. I'm still gonna take the chance and try it since Sojourner has had such great success with it.
I got a REALLY crazy good deal on that Amsoil or I'd have left it. I'm not big on thin oils, I mean- I live in FL I can usually run heavier oil than most of you. I may just use it for top offs once the rotella is gone.
Beginning of the summer is a great time to get some fresh new oil in it, and for $25 a bucket, its cheap insurance.
I'd like to flush the cooling system and run a higher percentage of distilled h20 and some Water Wetter. I'll even spring for a new coolant filter. But I'm still thinking on that, as I'm tempted to pull and possibly replace my rad and may as well do my water pump if I do.

Stewzer55 04-18-2017 01:18 AM

https://weknowmemes.com/wp-content/up...name-on-it.jpg

If it's good enough to power the interwebz, It's good enough for a bus.

cadillackid 04-18-2017 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 197447)
I've never had any of the problems others have reported when running synthetics. Even 0W-grades. Of course, not in diesels.
That oil cleaner is probably just as likely to do what you're saying. I'm still gonna take the chance and try it since Sojourner has had such great success with it.
I got a REALLY crazy good deal on that Amsoil or I'd have left it. I'm not big on thin oils, I mean- I live in FL I can usually run heavier oil than most of you. I may just use it for top offs once the rotella is gone.
Beginning of the summer is a great time to get some fresh new oil in it, and for $25 a bucket, its cheap insurance.
I'd like to flush the cooling system and run a higher percentage of distilled h20 and some Water Wetter. I'll even spring for a new coolant filter. But I'm still thinking on that, as I'm tempted to pull and possibly replace my rad and may as well do my water pump if I do.

my water pump impeller was perfect, but i did have some jiggle in the bearing so im glad i took it out and changed it.. it was only a matter of time before it would Leak.. and then id kicked myself for not doing it.

the oil pump is really easy to get to when the Rad is off.. mine showed some wear so was glad i did it too..

even up here in the mid-north of Ohio 15W40 seemed fine, I started both the DEV (not plugged in and no glow plugs on a DT-360) when it was near 0 out, the DEV took a few secxonds to fire.. if I plugged it in it kicks like its 80 out..

Red started like it was a warm day with just one glow plug cycle.. so I didnt worry about synthetic..

pulling the rad isnt bad at all to do... I wrestled with the shroud and turbo cooler only because I had to pull thenm separately.. i dont have the body strength to lift them together... if I had a secxond set of hands and disconnected the round cross rods that hold the core support i couldve yanked things together very quickly.
Removing the Bonnet was a must and made it EASY to get to everything. 4 cotter pins for the springs and 2 hinge pins.. 2 of us lifted that right off.. it weighs maybe 100-120 pounds..

unfortunately your engine is below the serial number to run standard ELC coolant.. you CAN run the stuff im running which is a poly-organic AMSoil coolant.. its a synthetic of some sort.. I still run a coolant filter, but one thats a non-chemical.. its rated as a 600,000 mile coolant.. but my standard green coolant still tested good with the strips and looked clean and green so i probably didnt Need to change it to the expensive stuff..

im sure the Hotshot will find any seal leaks I may have.. though many people have told me that have 7.3's my minor little leak is no big deal.. and that since there is oil in the valley its likely something seeping around the HPOP and not the rear main.. im not super worried about it...
-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-18-2017 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid (Post 197506)
my water pump impeller was perfect, but i did have some jiggle in the bearing so im glad i took it out and changed it.. it was only a matter of time before it would Leak.. and then id kicked myself for not doing it.

the oil pump is really easy to get to when the Rad is off.. mine showed some wear so was glad i did it too..

even up here in the mid-north of Ohio 15W40 seemed fine, I started both the DEV (not plugged in and no glow plugs on a DT-360) when it was near 0 out, the DEV took a few secxonds to fire.. if I plugged it in it kicks like its 80 out..

Red started like it was a warm day with just one glow plug cycle.. so I didnt worry about synthetic..

pulling the rad isnt bad at all to do... I wrestled with the shroud and turbo cooler only because I had to pull thenm separately.. i dont have the body strength to lift them together... if I had a secxond set of hands and disconnected the round cross rods that hold the core support i couldve yanked things together very quickly.
Removing the Bonnet was a must and made it EASY to get to everything. 4 cotter pins for the springs and 2 hinge pins.. 2 of us lifted that right off.. it weighs maybe 100-120 pounds..

unfortunately your engine is below the serial number to run standard ELC coolant.. you CAN run the stuff im running which is a poly-organic AMSoil coolant.. its a synthetic of some sort.. I still run a coolant filter, but one thats a non-chemical.. its rated as a 600,000 mile coolant.. but my standard green coolant still tested good with the strips and looked clean and green so i probably didnt Need to change it to the expensive stuff..

im sure the Hotshot will find any seal leaks I may have.. though many people have told me that have 7.3's my minor little leak is no big deal.. and that since there is oil in the valley its likely something seeping around the HPOP and not the rear main.. im not super worried about it...
-Christopher

Will definitely do the Melling 208 pump upgrade like you did!

And my 444 leaks a little in the same way/place as yours it sounds. Its not gushing, so I'm not worried. I lost a quart in all the time I've owned it. My old 466 is WAY leakier.
I won't be using any expensive coolant. Just whatever's cheap and on sale that meets the requirements. I'm gonna look into all that.
The stuff in it now is a pinkish orange-ish color. Looks clean.
Should I be running the green stuff?

cadillackid 04-18-2017 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 197509)
Will definitely do the Melling 208 pump upgrade like you did!

And my 444 leaks a little in the same way/place as yours it sounds. Its not gushing, so I'm not worried. I lost a quart in all the time I've owned it. My old 466 is WAY leakier.
I won't be using any expensive coolant. Just whatever's cheap and on sale that meets the requirements. I'm gonna look into all that.
The stuff in it now is a pinkish orange-ish color. Looks clean.
Should I be running the green stuff?

its hard to tell what they have in there unless someone affixed a label to it..

I run a Pink stuff in my DEV thats called Fleet-charge, its a Pre-charged SCA coolant but doesnt maintain itself.. so i use a precharged Coolant filter which time releases the additive into the coolant.. a good indicator of what you may have would be t osee if you can grab a number off of your coolant filter.. if you have an ELC coolant in there it should be a 'non chemical' filter, if its a pre-charged coolant then the filter should reference back to one that is a 'chemical' release filter..

Navistar CLAIMS that any engine built before 02/99 should not get ELC coolant due to supposed incompatibility with the injector cups (or something like that).. ENGINE serial numbers less than 940,xxx i think...

I have no idea how true it is.. it could be CYA...

its hard to figure out what someone else put in an engine if its not green as there are dozens of brands of various coolants..

the Plain green stuff with proper additives is an easy bet however only rated at 15,000 miles between changes.. but its cheap and easy.. green stuff, additive till it tests good then a chemical coolant filter and forget about it for 15k miles..

it just so happened that a video got produced literally the day I was trying to decide what coolants to get last week..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40WDW5xPqP4

-Christopher

EastCoastCB 04-18-2017 06:49 PM

First time using the lift in the real world, today. SHaun's dishwasher took a crap, so we went and got him a new one. Man, they build appliances like GARBAGE these days!
Lift sure was handy.
https://i.imgur.com/hmfQcDY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6tXN4VI.jpg

REDD 04-18-2017 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB (Post 197688)
First time using the lift in the real world, today. SHaun's dishwasher took a crap, so we went and got him a new one. Man, they build appliances like GARBAGE these days!
Lift sure was handy.
https://i.imgur.com/hmfQcDY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6tXN4VI.jpg


How much room do the lifts take up inside Charlie? ... never been in a skoolie with one.

Could of used one the other day to take my empties back. :biggrin:


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