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Sasquatters 03-17-2017 09:25 PM

Ceiling
 
Hello,

I tried using the search but apparently it's not that good here. We tried putting in a ceiling today using luan but it kept cracking near the bend of the roof where it meets the windows. We were considering wetting the boards but are afraid of de-lamination. We tried re-framing the entire roof to accommodate the bend but that didn't work either. There are a lot of people that use tongue and groove flooring for the roofing and we are starting to understand why. We have also seen several people use luan successfully and are wondering how they did it. It was a semi expensive roofing material in which we have already wasted 3 sheets. Any tips would be great. The bend and the seems between the panels are the biggest, and only issues that we have run into so far.

:Thanx:

scootie2 03-18-2017 09:07 AM

luan in 1/8"? of the 1/4" "project board" stuff they sell at lowes?

Blkjacksabbath 03-18-2017 11:49 AM

Use luan up to the transition, then use something more flexible above the windows to meet it.

Sasquatters 03-18-2017 12:04 PM

Yes 1/8 in. Using two different materials sounds more difficult and half asses.


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Robin97396 03-18-2017 02:24 PM

I put 19/32nds plywood on my ceiling. No, it doesn't go around the corners to meet the windows. Cut in 4" strips it neatly conforms to the curve. I wanted a ceiling strong enough so I didn't need to tie into a bus rib to have stability for walls or whatever I might like to fasten to the ceiling later. Getting the plywood to bend to match the ceiling isn't difficult. Put the plywood up on jack studs then bend it tight to the ceiling using a jack and a 2x4 cut to the right length before screwing it to the ribs and purlins.

I thought of using 1/8th" or 1/4" paneling, but even two layers wouldn't give me the strength I wanted for attaching things to the ceiling.

If you have some scrap luan remaining from your broken panels you might try pouring boiling water on the portion you intend to bend. Plys usually take a while to delaminate, like a couple weeks of being wet. Heating the luan with water may change the wood color slightly but it may allow you to make the bend you want. Try to heat and bend a piece of scrap.

Good luck.

TAOLIK 03-18-2017 03:29 PM

Pro tip: search through google via "site:skoolie.net ceiling" or replace ceiling with whatever you want. Check out the image search section too, it helps me lots!

Are you doing anything to treat your sheets beforehand? I'm doing something similar for my shower install with 1/4" underlayment from home depot. I got mine in using a very ghetto setup. I left it overnight over a sawhorse with weights on both sides. I wet both sides a few times with cold water (warm is supposed to be better).
https://www.juicylucybus.com/wp-conte...1-768x1024.jpg
Then I pushed it up against the ceiling (there were some cracks, I'm still not 100% sure if I'm going to try and redo it.

but it looks good for now.
https://www.juicylucybus.com/wp-conte...5-768x1024.jpg

If I choose to do it again, I'm going to buy a cheap garmant steamer from Wally's and steam the crap out of it while gently applying pressure. I would imagine it would work better, but everything works better in my mind than reality.

Jazty did a great job on his Armageddon bus build. by scoring the wood. I tried doing this and failed.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3672/1...75c8bd33_z.jpg

Could also be good to take advantage of return policy and consider using FRP or polywall.

I used polywall, it was a little too flexible, but I like how it turned out in the end. #feelsgoodman.
https://www.juicylucybus.com/wp-conte...1-1024x768.jpg

Best of luck to ya mate.

Sasquatters 03-18-2017 10:41 PM

Thanks for the message. What's polywall? I'm a little confused by your message. The polywall goes under the luan? I was reading about steaming them but I didn't think it would penetrate enough. How long did it take to get that formed properly into your bus? Is it a public transit bus or a school bus?

:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by TAOLIK (Post 191432)
Pro tip: search through google via "site:skoolie.net ceiling" or replace ceiling with whatever you want. Check out the image search section too, it helps me lots!

Are you doing anything to treat your sheets beforehand? I'm doing something similar for my shower install with 1/4" underlayment from home depot. I got mine in using a very ghetto setup. I left it overnight over a sawhorse with weights on both sides. I wet both sides a few times with cold water (warm is supposed to be better).
https://www.juicylucybus.com/wp-conte...1-768x1024.jpg
Then I pushed it up against the ceiling https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/armageddon-the-smell-of-airborne-rust-8870.html\" target=\"_blank\">Armageddon bus build. by scoring the wood. I tried doing this and failed.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3672/1...75c8bd33_z.jpg

Could also be good to take advantage of return policy and consider using FRP or polywall.

I used polywall, it was a little too flexible, but I like how it turned out in the end. #feelsgoodman.
https://www.juicylucybus.com/wp-conte...1-1024x768.jpg

Best of luck to ya mate.


TAOLIK 03-18-2017 11:11 PM

Polywall via home depot, 1/16" 4x8 plastic panel

She's a schoolbus alright. Hopefully the picture comes through smoothly.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qM...Q=w818-h613-no


I let the weight curve the board slightly overnight hoping it would rain (it did not). The next morning before work I wedged it in and pushed it in. It cracked a bit, I took it off examined the board, said "F it" and applied some pressure with the 2x4's. I gently hammered it with some scrap wood inbetween to get the form and position satisfactory. I still am not 100% sure if I will use that wood, but I'm probably going to do so because the cracks are pretty minor from what I can tell. I'd say alone it took about 30 min, with someone else it could be done in less. I did spend another 20 min unscrewing the wood it's resting on beforehand, cutting its shape so the underlayment would have something to push against while I tried to form it.

I am going to take it off and form it again (with glue this time) if it cracks badly I will redo it with steam and report back, if it forms nicely I might not report back here.

Sasquatters 03-18-2017 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TAOLIK (Post 191495)
Polywall via home depot, 1/16" 4x8 plastic panel



She's a schoolbus alright. Hopefully the picture comes through smoothly.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qM...Q=w818-h613-no





I let the weight curve the board slightly overnight hoping it would rain (it did not). The next morning before work I wedged it in and pushed it in. It cracked a bit, I took it off examined the board, said "F it" and applied some pressure with the 2x4's. I gently hammered it with some scrap wood inbetween to get the form and position satisfactory. I still am not 100% sure if I will use that wood, but I'm probably going to do so because the cracks are pretty minor from what I can tell. I'd say alone it took about 30 min, with someone else it could be done in less. I did spend another 20 min unscrewing the wood it's resting on beforehand, cutting its shape so the underlayment would have something to push against while I tried to form it.



I am going to take it off and form it again (with glue this time) if it cracks badly I will redo it with steam and report back, if it forms nicely I might not report back here.



Thanks. I'll look into the poly wall. If you could report back either way that would be great for others looking for similar answers.


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Tango 03-19-2017 09:54 AM

Check out "Bender Board". You can coil up a 4 x 8 sheet.

Sasquatters 03-20-2017 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tango (Post 191536)
Check out "Bender Board". You can coil up a 4 x 8 sheet.

Thanks again everyone. I found a solution thanks to helpful search terms suggested. I will be posting back once I see how well it works. It's an easily obtainable product that may help a LOT of people. AND IT'S WOOD!

TAOLIK 03-24-2017 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sasquatters (Post 191496)
Thanks. I'll look into the poly wall. If you could report back either way that would be great for others looking for similar answers. [/url]

As you wish, https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dt...a=w498-h663-no
Ceiling went up with success, I screwed it in and used some PL premium adhesive. I heard another crack or two, but I was well past the point or return at that point. The exterior looks good and smooth for my FRP install.

I also slipped in a 2x2, to help brace it. You can see it here.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fu...Q=w498-h663-no


Quote:

Originally Posted by Sasquatters (Post 191890)
I found a solution thanks to helpful search terms suggested. I will be posting back once I see how well it works. It's an easily obtainable product that may help a LOT of people. AND IT'S WOOD!


Great, If you could report your solution, that would be great for others looking for similar answers.

WhiteWhale 03-27-2017 11:57 AM

Just went to town on ours this past weekend. I found that 6" wide 3/8 plywood was well suited to be screwed to studs as strapping. It made the bend well (with some elbow grease and lots of wood-to-metal self tappers). I used two 4 foot pieces for each rib, as its important to go AGAINST THE GRAIN of the plywood to allow for bending and avoid splintering. I also put strips of closed cell foam (the kind that comes in roles to be used between sills and foundations of houses) between the plywood and ribs. The 6" wide strips leave room for nailing up the T&G on either side of the rib, and provide a flat surface for adhesive (I dont trust the finish nails alone).

Hope this helps someone!

Sasquatters 03-27-2017 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteWhale (Post 193267)
Just went to town on ours this past weekend. I found that 6" wide 3/8 plywood was well suited to be screwed to studs as strapping. It made the bend well (with some elbow grease and lots of wood-to-metal self tappers). I used two 4 foot pieces for each rib, as its important to go AGAINST THE GRAIN of the plywood to allow for bending and avoid splintering. I also put strips of closed cell foam (the kind that comes in roles to be used between sills and foundations of houses) between the plywood and ribs. The 6" wide strips leave room for nailing up the T&G on either side of the rib, and provide a flat surface for adhesive (I dont trust the finish nails alone).



Hope this helps someone!



Photos are great.


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WhiteWhale 03-27-2017 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sasquatters (Post 193272)
Photos are great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are a couple photos on our instagram pages @whitewhaleskoolie

Sasquatters 03-27-2017 12:46 PM

Ah thanks. I remember seeing those this weekend.


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Stu & Filo. T 03-30-2017 06:35 PM

There's this stuff.

Radius Bending Plywood | Bendable & Flexible Plywood

Sasquatters 03-30-2017 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T (Post 193906)



Great job giving away the surprise :P
I'm waiting to write more about it until we are actually working with the stuff.


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Stu & Filo. T 03-30-2017 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sasquatters (Post 193907)
Great job giving away the surprise :P
I'm waiting to write more about it until we are actually working with the stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry but someone actually had a link on here a few months ago. :whistling:

Sasquatters 03-30-2017 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T (Post 193908)
Sorry but someone actually had a link on here a few months ago. :whistling:



Oh :) I may have been able to find it if the search function actually worked. Haha. We're excited to get the stuff in our possession.


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