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-   -   Oil Pressure Gauge Line Replacement (https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/oil-pressure-gauge-line-replacement-17409.html)

coolbus 04-05-2017 11:29 PM

Oil Pressure Gauge Line Replacement
 
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Hey guys,

I was re-installing my instrument cluster today when I accidentally clipped the line that brings oil into the instrument panel for pressure measurement. I found parts to fix it temporarily at home depot, but would like a real replacement part for long term use. I haven't been able to find what I'm looking for on any of my normal school bus part websites, does anybody know where to look for one of these?

Thanks!

Tootalltechie 04-06-2017 06:23 AM

Any auto parts store can help you with the parts. Looks like a normal manual oil pressure gauge hook up. You could either replace the whole hose or put a joint in, both work. Just need to know size of hose and fittings.

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BlackJohn 04-06-2017 08:36 AM

Just how did you do that re-installing the cluster? A big cut to be an accident isn't it?

turf 04-06-2017 09:01 AM

i would call that a compression fitting. imo.

looks like all the parts are there, can't you just shorten the line a bit? get the brass bits out. make a clean cut and put the brass bits back, and screw back it in.

you should be able to get a coupler if you need to extend the line a bit.

by the look... i'd say 1/4" tubing to 1/8"pipe compression..... female adapter

if not "compression" then its a "flare" fitting, but compression is my first guess

cadillackid 04-06-2017 09:31 AM

looks like compression to me... you can buy those ferrell fittings at lowes or Home depot.. get the ones made for nylon line.. (ie refrigerator ice maker line).

-Christopher

coolbus 04-06-2017 01:22 PM

Thanks for the advice.

@BlackJohn I was putting the dash back in, had only attached the one tube, went to grab a tool and the dash fell over and snapped the line.

@Turf I was thinking the same thing but the brass ring on the tube fits on quite tight and doesn't seem to want to come off or go back on, I'll give it another try...

JHerrin 04-06-2017 03:45 PM

I had to replace mine as it was weeping on top of the oil filter Oreillys has either a nylon kit or a copper kit. Both are cheap and the nylon one I bought works fine. Copper is cooler.Equus 9801 - Nylon Tubing Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts

BlackJohn 04-06-2017 04:18 PM

Wow, hope that is the only damage. Let us know if everything works when back together. Sometimes Murphy's law applies to school buses. Sudden shocks like that are not good for instruments. Hope your luck is good.

family wagon 04-06-2017 05:01 PM

I agree: it looks like 1/4" OD plastic tube. There's an insert inside the tube and the ferrule on the outside. When the connection is tightened the ferrule is deformed (crimped to a smaller diameter) and holds the tube tight between it and the insert. You likely won't get them apart without damaging the ferrule. Even if you did, it may not slide onto new tube because it's probably too small now. Brass ferrules are tricky to use on plastic tube anyway because if they're the slightest bit out of true when tightened they'll cut the tube.

If you look in the evaporative (aka "swamp") cooler aisle at your favorite plumbing supply you'll probably find plastic ferrules, likely white in color and made of Delrin. They aren't symmetric they way the brass ferrules are. One side has a longer taper than the other; it should be installed so that side goes toward the socket of the female connection. Put a new brass insert inside the tube as well.

Waayyyy down at the bottom of the page on https://www.plumbingsupply.com/compress.html there's a picture that shows how the pieces go together.
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/image...rt-labeled.jpg

Tootalltechie 04-06-2017 06:00 PM

What they said 👍

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Iceni John 04-06-2017 09:01 PM

You're talking about using plastic tubing for an oil line. I wouldn't. I would instead suggest using something capable of higher pressure and temperature - a burst oil line, even a small-diameter line to a gauge or sender, could start a fire if it sprays onto a hot exhaust pipe, or at the very least will make a hell of a mess everywhere. I wouldn't chance it. For my fuel pressure gauge I had my local hydraulic hose shop make me a stainless-braided teflon-lined hose with the correct high-pressure fittings swaged on just like on a hydraulic hose - it's cheap insurance in the circumstances. Another idea could be to have an electric gauge with a pressure sender at the engine, then there's no risk of Something Bad happening.

Be safe.

John

coolbus 04-07-2017 11:27 PM

So I got the nylon tube installed today, rated to 133PSI, oil gauge goes up to 100 PSI so in the short term I should be good. My oil line actually has a threaded connector through the firewall, so I'm only replacing about 18" of cabling, and a burst line will not spray oil on my engine, just on my feet. I tested the pressure on it today and it held, so for the time being I'll probably just keep this tube. Once I squash some of my other bugs I'll probably revisit, but since I won't be driving much until the conversion is complete I think it makes more sense to spend my efforts elsewhere now. Thanks for all of the help!

Tootalltechie 04-07-2017 11:40 PM

Once you have your dash back together start your bus and make sure everything works.

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coolbus 04-07-2017 11:55 PM

Did that today, it all works except for the RPM and Speedo which have never worked since I bought the bus. i tried the connector soldering trick for the international clusters, and changed the 0-1 switches to the proper position, and still no dice. Not worried about speeding as I max out around 60 but it would still be nice to have, so I'll either be further diagnosing or buying an ATA scanner with RPM and Speed readout soon.

Tootalltechie 04-07-2017 11:57 PM

Sounds good

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cadillackid 04-08-2017 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolbus (Post 195447)
So I got the nylon tube installed today, rated to 133PSI, oil gauge goes up to 100 PSI so in the short term I should be good. My oil line actually has a threaded connector through the firewall, so I'm only replacing about 18" of cabling, and a burst line will not spray oil on my engine, just on my feet. I tested the pressure on it today and it held, so for the time being I'll probably just keep this tube. Once I squash some of my other bugs I'll probably revisit, but since I won't be driving much until the conversion is complete I think it makes more sense to spend my efforts elsewhere now. Thanks for all of the help!

you should be fine.. even at 0 degrees F when I started my 444E and took off my oil pressure never went above 76 PSI, the springs should unload at 60 PSI I think on the 444E.

I had forgotten on the old versions of the 444E that not all of the gauges were operated by the computer.. on my year 2000 (late 99 chassis), all of the gauges excep fuel / trans / air PSI. are operated through a comm link.

im not as familiar with the older 3-Box computers you have, but the way the 444E operates it requires readings of coolant temp / Oil PSI / Voltage / speed / RPM to run the engine so you should be able to read those out through a scangauge.

-Christopher

DoubleO7 04-08-2017 10:15 AM

If the line broke when the cluster fell over, you better replace the entire line.
Sounds like it was/is old and brittle.
And if it is that weak inside the cab, the portion inside the engine compartment is theoretically worse due to more extreme temp. swings.
Don't do the job half way and be sorry later.
Just be careful where you route the new tubing away from heat sources and sharp edges.


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