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-   -   Marcel's Magics Kool Bus (https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/marcels-magics-kool-bus-20732.html)

Twigg 04-15-2018 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nanoplane (Post 264117)
I plan on traveling all over.. I'm planning on only 9000 BTU for my bus (10000 heating).. it's less than 300 square feet of space that needs heating/cooling.

... and it needs about 4 x the amount of heating and cooling that most calculators suggest, especially in hot summers or cold winters.

john61ct 04-15-2018 06:43 PM

Insulating panels or hanging heavy blankets to shrink the space cooled, plus of course solid insulation to start with.

Windows are deadly!

2martins 04-16-2018 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john61ct (Post 264153)
Insulating panels or hanging heavy blankets to shrink the space cooled, plus of course solid insulation to start with.

Windows are deadly!

I have seen people plan TWO 15k BTU units front and back for AC for a 40' bus in AZ. I think. It's been a while now. I have a portable one that is supposed to be enough for that sized room and will certainly be enough for the bedroom at night only. And then it could do the living area during the day probably, but it's only designed to lower the temp so much -msybe 20 degrees and if it's 100 then 80 is better but not good enough for me probably. And then I still have to figure out AC and heat for while driving!!! So far I just drove with a lot of layers and gloves on!

nanoplane 05-02-2018 01:14 PM

Solar updates
 
Solar panels are all installed:

https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...rUpdates-3.jpg

Each panel has some 1/8" thick weatherstripping on the bottom to provide a little space between the panel and the roof.. slightly better cooling.. probably only when driving down the highway :-)

https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...rUpdates-1.jpg


The panels are connected in parallel for each of the 8 "rows" some with two and some with three panels. Each Row is routed back to a terminal strip in the back of the bus where I can implement a parallel or serial/parallel configuration.. or experiment.

Wiring to the farthest 4 rows of panels is 8# copper wire. The near 4 rows are 10# copper wire.

nanoplane 05-14-2018 10:51 AM

Solar System Circuit
 
Here is the circuit diagram for the solar system / chargers / inverter...

https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolBus/Bus-DC.pdf

There are 8 "rows" of solar panels, from the front of the bus, 2 rows of 2 panels, then 4 rows of 3 panels then another 2 rows of 2 panels.

Each row is connected in parallel at the panels then pairs of "matching" rows are connected in series at the terminal blocks and then those in turn connected in series to create two arrays, each having 10 panels with an open circuit voltage of about 40V. Each of these arrays route to a Midnite Solar charge controller and then to the Battery Array (12V, up to 880AH / 10kW).

The Inverter is an AIMS 3000 W nominal/9000 W peak device. It also supports battery charging at 140A when connected to shore power. It has automatic shutoff when the battery voltage gets too low.

nanoplane 05-14-2018 10:57 AM

Solar Power
 
So far, the installation looks like this:

https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...rUpdates-4.jpg

... almost there :-)

ben2go 05-14-2018 06:10 PM

:eek: That's a clean install and those freaking huge dozer batteries should run the freakin' town next door. :rofl:

nanoplane 05-14-2018 06:16 PM

Big Batteries...
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go (Post 269335)
:eek: That's a clean install and those freaking huge dozer batteries should run the freakin' town next door. :rofl:

I'm not too sure about that, but I could probably replace my house backup generator with the bus...:biggrin:

nanoplane 05-15-2018 02:36 PM

We have Power !!!
 
Basic power is ON :dance:

Here's the final installation,
https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...rUpdates-5.jpg

Now I just need to add the AC/DC distribution panel and all the rest :smile:

Rovobay 05-15-2018 02:49 PM

impressive setup. I loathe working on electronics. I wish I didn't but I do. I was going to attempt to strip all unnecessary wires from my bus but feared doing damage.

Ninjakitty 05-15-2018 04:59 PM

That is a great looking setup. I really like how clean it is. I have a similar set up to yours that I haven't installed yet. I think I may order a couple of more busbars.

jjhwick119 05-15-2018 05:13 PM

Very nice wiring job! I worked at Car Toys for a decade doing aftermarket installs and that looks like it was done by a pro. A lot of people i worked with in the company couldn't even do it that clean to be honest, lol.

o1marc 05-15-2018 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rovobay (Post 269513)
impressive setup. I loathe working on electronics. I wish I didn't but I do. I was going to attempt to strip all unnecessary wires from my bus but feared doing damage.

When I have a job like this I turn the vehicle on and all accessories on, then start cutting wires one at a time. If cutting one shuts something down or changes the sound of normal, I reconnect that wire and proceed on.

nanoplane 05-15-2018 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ninjakitty (Post 269538)
That is a great looking setup. I really like how clean it is. I have a similar set up to yours that I haven't installed yet. I think I may order a couple of more busbars.

I made most of my Busbars.. 3/16" x 1" copper flat bar and some plastic and stainless flathead bolts and flange nuts...

nanoplane 05-24-2018 09:25 PM

Solar Updates
 
Ok, I've done the whole power system "backend"

https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...rUpdates-6.jpg

added the AC distribution panel, sensors connections and negative to chassis... Which was "interesting"...

I had connected everything except the ground to chassis and when I added that last green wire (at the bottom center...), there was an interesting result...

Things you learn... when screwing Busbars to plywood, don't use screws that will be longer than the depth of the plywood.... They can touch metal (in this case, foil tape) and when you suddenly add the ground line... if the long screws were on the positive busbars.... you get a very large spark... enough to melt some of the copper in the ground wire AND blow away a bit of the Aluminum Tape...

... Screws Replaced....

At the top of the plywood you can see my wiring trays... these are segmented trays, 1 part for AC one part for DC...

https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...ates-trays.jpg

The caps for the trays are made from some of the ceiling perf metal..

nanoplane 05-24-2018 09:34 PM

Removing the Extra Door..
 
I decided my bathroom needed to be where the driver's side emergency door was.. so it had to go... It did not go easily... Well, the door went fine, the frame was a real pain... The top part is riveted into the seam for the rain drip tray... so I had to cut it free with cutting wheels.. But, now it's gone and in it's place will be a panel, with a tiny window (my SO insisted we have a window in the bathroom)..

Here's the current state... Lower panel in place... need to create the upper frame to match the structure and hold the tiny window. I am also getting some bumper rail to match the existing.

note: I created the tiny window by cutting down one of the old windows that isn't being used... Score both sides of the safety glass.. trim and drill the frame bits to match...

https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...rReplace-1.jpg
https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...rReplace-2.jpg

o1marc 05-24-2018 09:42 PM

I have the same door delete planned for mine, thanks for the experience and pics. Be glad it wasn't a wheelchair door that protrudes into the roof skin.

oricha1984 05-24-2018 09:52 PM

that is some serious money spent on a solar set up.
looks good, gratz!

nanoplane 05-25-2018 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oricha1984 (Post 271518)
that is some serious money spent on a solar set up.
looks good, gratz!

About $6k so far. Not too serious:angel:

nanoplane 05-31-2018 03:41 PM

Door be Gone
 
So.. just apply a little DoorBeGone and ... voila:

https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...oneOutside.jpg

I tried to match the "patterns as much as I could.. almost successful :-).

on the inside, I'm insulating and covering the "hole" with sheet metal and then once I add the interior framing, there will be more insulation and yet-another-wall..

https://rivard.org/images/MagicsKoolB...GoneInside.jpg


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