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Frochevy 05-21-2018 08:53 AM

My Short bus build...
 
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I'm new to the skoolie builds and just purchased a 2007 Collins short bus built on a Chevy express 3500 chassis. I'm starting to do a few things to it so I thought I would start a new thread on it. Hopefully this will help someone if they have the same problems I am experiencing! If anyone disagrees with my thinking, I could be wrong. So please let me know.

It has an LMM Duramax diesel and 4L85E transmission. I had a trouble code of transmission component slipping on the way home and reduced engine power light came on. (Turned a 2 hour trip into 3-4hrs) I changed the transmission filter and fluid yesterday. I have not got to test drive it yet. The pan looked fairly clean and normal. No burnt smell in the fluid. I've been told different size tires on front and back can cause a situation with the abs and cause this code. I don't know for sure. I thought I would go ahead and change filter and fluid to be safe.

Another note- if you have a van and have the engine cover (inside the van) off, ensure there are no wires to catch when you reinstall the cover. I had a large red wire from the glow plug module crossed up on mine and cause it to arc at some point in the past. I fixed the wire and routed and zip tied any loose wires on top of the engine. (Keep away from heat sources! Turbo, exhaust,etc) I tied up the wire mess on the inside that goes to the control box for all of the lights, mirrors, ac etc which is part of the school bus options. I also used spray adhesive to re-glue the insulation and rubber seal to the engine cover. If those pieces are falling off of the cover it is almost impossible to install the cover correctly!

I'm currently working through floor plans and trying to decide which route to go. This forum has been amazing so far! Everyone has been great and given good advice on here!

More to come... seat removal will be next (once I can get some help from my wife)...

Fredinbelize 05-22-2018 07:59 AM

Good luck with your project.
I am just starting mine too.

Frochevy 05-23-2018 09:56 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Fredinbelize (Post 270799)
Good luck with your project.
I am just starting mine too.

Thanks! Good luck with yours as well!

I was able to work on the bus a little today. Started to pull seats out. They turned out to be more of a pain then I figured. Some are impossible to get an impact on either side of them. So I ended up cutting a few heads off the bolts. I only got 3 seats removed this evening. 7 more to go!

Anyone need any seats? What do you all do with the seats? Sell them on Craigslist?

magnakansas 05-24-2018 05:31 AM

Hey!
 
I am Topeka. You have your bus. I am waiting for mine to be delivered from Colorado. Have fun with the work. Kinda cool to see that rail on the side with the bolts holding the side of the seat up and to the wall. Might be useful for attaching structure to the wall of the bus.

I think these buses are wired with the spaghetti system.

cheers, william

Fredinbelize 05-24-2018 09:15 AM

I took my seats out yesterday. I just broke them out. See my thread for pics.
I took the padding off and posted on Craigslist as scrap metal. They were gone in 30 minutes.

Frochevy 05-24-2018 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by magnakansas (Post 271240)
I am Topeka. You have your bus. I am waiting for mine to be delivered from Colorado. Have fun with the work. Kinda cool to see that rail on the side with the bolts holding the side of the seat up and to the wall. Might be useful for attaching structure to the wall of the bus.

I think these buses are wired with the spaghetti system.

cheers, william

We're not far from each other then! I looked at a few buses online in Denver area before I bought this one. What did you get? I do plan on using those tracks/rails for the build. Mine are riveted on so they won't be moved. Lol

magnakansas 05-24-2018 08:31 PM

me and mine
 
I have yet to see my bus. 1954 ford short bus, wayne body. There is a thread in they introduction section that shows more details.

Frochevy 06-01-2018 07:10 AM

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I had some more time to work on the bus lastnight. My wife helped me get 3 more seats out. And I also cha he'd the fuel filter/water separator. I've learned the Duramax vans have a different fuel filter setup than the trucks. Two filters almost directly under the driver seat. It was very easy to change. After changing, I cycled the key switch on about 4-5 times before starting. No problems there. I took for test drive and I still got the "Reduced Engine Power" light and it went into "limp" mode. Ugh! I'm still not sure what the issue is! Plan to take somewhere today and have a scanner put on it.


Another note: I went to tag office yesterday and got a 60 day tag for it to be able to test drive it before the RV conversion was complete. It was $8 and I just had to show proof of insurance, signed title in my name and sheriff inspection (since it was out of state).

I also went and talked to the appraisers office about the 3 key things to qualify as an RV.
1. Electrical system above 12v
2. Provisions for plumbing (she described this as "water hookups")
3. Heating - I asked her if the original heater in the bus would qualify, she said it just says heater so it would.

Frochevy 06-05-2018 09:19 AM

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I dug into the bus a little more last night. Was wondering if my trouble codes had anything to do with bad grounds or dirty connections. I found some corrosion on the fuse block. I've been told this 125a fuse is for the glow plugs. This might be setting off the glow plug module code. I decided to remove the batteries from the tray to clean everything up.

Frochevy 06-13-2018 12:53 PM

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After cleaning all of the battery cables up and junction blocks, I put everything back together and reset the code. I took it for a test drive and it still went into reduced engine power mode. The only code I have now is the low fuel rail pressure.

Later on the glow plug module light came back on. So that module may be faulty.

The good news is my transmission control module light hasn't came back on now, so I'm assuming it was a dirty electrical connection. The junction block (where multiple cables meet at the original battery mount location in the van) was very corroded.

On a different note, I purchased an Ancel AD410 scanner (OBDII code reader) for a little over $40 from Amazon. So far it is working great to check codes and reset the check engine light. I'd recommend if anyone is needing to reset their check engine light on anything 1996 an newer.

Mr4btTahoe 06-15-2018 01:35 PM

Can you test fuel pressure?


I'd say fpr issue or lift pump. If its lift pump related, would be a good time to upgrade to a FASS or Airdog system.

Frochevy 07-06-2018 11:21 AM

Fuel hose replacement
 
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I had some time this morning while it was cool to work on the fuel lines. I've done some research and I'm hoping my P0087 low fuel rail pressure is due to the collapsing/kinking rubber fuel hose sections on the 1/2" supply line. I decided to go with the Trident marine fuel hose from Larry B's for replacement. The line from the sending unit (at the tank) to the back of the fuel filter/water separator has two rubber sections. My steel portion of the line is very rusty. So I decided to replace the whole thing with hose. ( many people do this with the 2nd gen 12valve cummins engines) (I used this same hose on my Cummins with good results).

I removed the line, then used a dremel to carefully cut the outer clamp. Then you can pry the clamp apart and pull it away and slide the hose off. Be careful not to cut through the metal portion. Of the end/barb (it will be reused.)

Frochevy 07-06-2018 11:26 AM

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Forgot to mention this is an LMM Duramax (07)

I used approximately 56" of hose from the tank to the fuel filter/water separator. I used a good hose clamp to attach the new hose on each end.

Make sure your new hose won't rub anywhere. I had to tweak the fuel line from the sending unit down a little so the hose wouldn't rub on the edge of the frame. You could also pad the frame or the hose to prevent rubbing through.

I still plan to replace the other two sections of rubber hose. One by the trans and one by the fuel rail on the left side of the engine. More to come. I hope this cures my fuel rail pressure problems.

Frochevy 07-06-2018 11:27 AM

Sorry for the upside down pictures...

Frochevy 07-06-2018 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr4btTahoe (Post 275535)
Can you test fuel pressure?


I'd say fpr issue or lift pump. If its lift pump related, would be a good time to upgrade to a FASS or Airdog system.

I just noticed your reply... I haven't tested fuel pressure yet. I was told this fuel line replacement is the most common issue on the Duramax. It only does it when it's hot out and when I get on the gas pretty hard. So makes me think the hoses are collapsing under acceleration.

Frochevy 07-06-2018 04:00 PM

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I changed out the other section of hose on the fuel line. It goes from the other side of fuel filter up to the fuel rail.

I got everything changed and took it for test drive with eventually the same results: low pressure fuel rail bank 1.

Ugh.

I watched data stream on my scanner and fuel pressure is 4500psi or so at idle and would peak aroubd 25-27k psi. One thing I did notice is throttle position stayed at 14.1%. So I'm not sure if that is part of my issue?

Frochevy 07-09-2018 10:16 PM

Duramax bottle test
 
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I did the "bottle test" yesterday. The LMM Duramax has a fuel pressure relieve valve on the driver side of the fuel rail at the rear. Many people say this will cause the P0087 low fuel rail pressure code to come on. The spring gets weak and let's fuel bypass and temporarily causes low fuel pressure. (This is my understanding). So you do a bottle test to redirect that fuel into a bottle to test if the FPRV is holding tight or letting fuel by. (It seems my FPRV is OK)

I let the engine heat up to operating temp and went and drove on the highway. Turned around and mashed on the pedal to take off and around 55-60mph it went into limp mode. Checked bottle and no fuel. Checked and same code I've been having. Ugh... what's my next step? Lol

NOTE: pictures are from van so looking at rear of engine inside van with engine cover removed. I had to remove glow plug module and heat shield to access the hose.

I also wondered if the fuel pressure sensor is reading right. I read that key on e fine off the sensor should read 1-1.8mpa which is 145-261psi. (Mine flashes between 71-107psi) so this could be another potential issue... more to come on this later.

Sorry to bore you all! I hope by documenting my troubles will help someone else in the future. The duramax Chevy Express vans are different animals than the trucks and harder to find info on...

magnakansas 07-10-2018 01:18 AM

testing
 
do you have an in tank pump? if you do, install tee fitting in the line just after the fuel tank, make the line go all the way to the windshield.. install fuel pressure gage in the line and tape the gage to the outside of the window.. record pressure at idle, record pressure at failure .

go from there...

if you do not have an in tank pump, go the output side of the booster pump if you can, install tee fitting..........

william

that scanner only gives some insight at to what could be wrong, you have to use the 15pound computer ontop of your shoulders to find what is wrong. and it could be more than one thing.

william

joeblack5 07-10-2018 06:53 AM

Nice job on the fuel lines. If your fuel lines collapse then the inside pressure must be lower then the outside so the engine sucks harder then the tank can deliver. I do not know anything about Duramax and if they have a lift pump in the tank or on the engine but I would check tank screen filter and if a pump is in the tank then also the pump.



Good luck, J

Frochevy 07-10-2018 07:19 AM

From my understanding this is a common duramax problem. The trucks have only the high pressure pump at the engine (called cp3). The vans have the same system with the addition to a lift pump in the tank that only runs for first 30 seconds or so. So essentially the pump at the engine always "sucks" the fuel to the engine. The collapsing fuel lines have actually been a technical service bulletin that GM put out. That is why I started there replacing those areas.

I do appreciate the ideas. I think I might think about pulling the tank and sending unit next to see if the screen or pick up is plugged.

Yesterday I drove the bus in town to get a weight on it at the coop. (Scale wasn't available). I didn't have any problems with the code or limp mode yesterday and it was high 90's. I drove it normally without mashing the pedal or accelerating hard.

I drove the bus to work this morning to try stopping by the coop to get a weight today. I need an empty weight for the rv conversion tag...

Frochevy 07-10-2018 11:44 AM

2007 Chevy Collins Weight
 
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I just went and had the bus weighed at the local coop. ($5 for printed ticket) and it weighed in at 8820 lbs. I have all but 4 bus seats removed. I was told I needed an empty weight for the RV conversion tag.

Frochevy 07-22-2018 11:43 PM

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I'm still working through engine codes but I'm trying to stay positive. So I ordered some reflectix sheeting for window coverings to reduce the heat coming in. (I've heard mixed reviews on this stuff so well see...) I ordered a grommet kit and made my own covers. I used magnetic hooks to hang the window covers. Well see how they work when I get them all sone and put up.

On a different note I played around with some more layouts. The one I'm leaning towards is this one. Toilet and shower behind the driver, dinette across utilizing truck seats? (Maybe) so passengers can have seat belts. This would turn into small bed for kids. Back behind that would be the sink cabinet with stove top. Across from this would be a queen bed that folds down (kind of like a horizontal murphy bed). This bus will be used for camping and tailgating. Please let me hear your thoughts on the floor plans... I've tried many different things!

Frochevy 08-06-2018 12:09 PM

New Lift Pump Installed
 
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I ordered a twin deluxe lift pump kit from Kennedy diesel and installed it on Saturday. I've read and been told this is something all duramax engines need. I had 3" hg of restriction before the pump install (which I've heard is normal) and after the install I'm currently pushing a little over 5psi. The bad news is it didn't fix my problem. I strapped the kids seats in the bus Saturday for the test drive. We drove it to town and picked up lunch and had a picnic in the back before returning home. On the way home going up a hill the fuel pressure code came on again. So... back to the drawing board again. I have to check out put of the CP3 (injection pump) when commanded vs actual to see if it needs replaced. That'll be another $1000. Lift Pump was around $600... injectors are around $3000... I'm not sure this LMM Duramax was a good idea.................

Ravendancer 08-12-2018 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy (Post 279646)
I did the "bottle test" yesterday. The LMM Duramax has a fuel pressure relieve valve on the driver side of the fuel rail at the rear. Many people say this will cause the P0087 low fuel rail pressure code to come on. The spring gets weak and let's fuel bypass and temporarily causes low fuel pressure. (This is my understanding). So you do a bottle test to redirect that fuel into a bottle to test if the FPRV is holding tight or letting fuel by. (It seems my FPRV is OK)

I let the engine heat up to operating temp and went and drove on the highway. Turned around and mashed on the pedal to take off and around 55-60mph it went into limp mode. Checked bottle and no fuel. Checked and same code I've been having. Ugh... what's my next step? Lol

NOTE: pictures are from van so looking at rear of engine inside van with engine cover removed. I had to remove glow plug module and heat shield to access the hose.

I also wondered if the fuel pressure sensor is reading right. I read that key on e fine off the sensor should read 1-1.8mpa which is 145-261psi. (Mine flashes between 71-107psi) so this could be another potential issue... more to come on this later.

Sorry to bore you all! I hope by documenting my troubles will help someone else in the future. The duramax Chevy Express vans are different animals than the trucks and harder to find info on...

Hey, not boring,man! New to the site and appreciate your know how. I probably won’t touch the engine much but good to know going in to get something fixed.

We have the 06 engine Chevy Express and just getting started on painting and floor plan. Engine is purring and powerful!

Frochevy 08-12-2018 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ravendancer (Post 285745)
Hey, not boring,man! New to the site and appreciate your know how. I probably won’t touch the engine much but good to know going in to get something fixed.

We have the 06 engine Chevy Express and just getting started on painting and floor plan. Engine is purring and powerful!

Hey I'm pretty new to the site as well! Glad your Duramax is running well! Let me know if you have any questions... i learn something new about mine everyday! Lol

Ravendancer 08-12-2018 08:53 PM

Oh yes, learning something new every day, and the puzzles are kinda fun.

Frochevy 09-04-2018 07:28 AM

Well I had my first good memory in the bus this weekend! Hopefully things will turn around for me on this thing! We drove it to our first Kstate football game and used it for tailgating! I left 4 seats in it so it will legally haul 9 people at the moment. I added some cable clips in various locations so I could tie up the tables, chairs, tv etc to the walls to save space and keep everything from falling over. I babied it so I wouldn't set it in to limp mode and it did great! Noe I'm excited again to get back to this build! This Saturday we have an 11am game so well be pulling out in the bus around 6am! I'll take pictures this time!

Frochevy 09-15-2018 08:50 PM

Rear Platform
 
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Well I had some inspiration from fellow bus owners and the stinking gas smell from generator in the bus while heading to tailgate! I worked on a platform yesterday and finished up the deck this morning before heading to the game! I used 3x3x1/4" square tubing bolted to the frame and comes out through two holes cut in the bumper. The rear is the same size tubing. Sides are 2x2x1/4" square tubing and also used some 1.5x1.5x1/4" angle. I went with the composite ultra deck boards so I don't have to worry about wood. It's not complete yet. I built it in a hurry and it will need cleaned up a little and painted better. I'm contemplating having an outdoor shower that I can setup on one side in the future. I still plan to add a receiver hitch to it and a slide in step. Other ideas include possibly a grill/smoker that hinges and swings out to use. Thinking about a tv mount for tailgates. Who knows... I gotta buy some receiver mounts from harbor freight while they are on sale! Any suggestions for the rear platform would be appreciated! Thanks!

plfking 09-15-2018 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy (Post 290935)
I worked on a platform yesterday and finished up the deck this morning before heading to the game!

That's pretty sharp.....well done.

How deep is it? Got any pics of the frame without the 'wood'? I'll be building one in the future and I hope it turns out as nicely as yours.

Frochevy 09-22-2018 10:23 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by plfking (Post 290941)
That's pretty sharp.....well done.

How deep is it? Got any pics of the frame without the 'wood'? I'll be building one in the future and I hope it turns out as nicely as yours.

It is 31" from rear of tube to bus bumper abd is 92"wide. I made it a couple inches narrower than the bumper on each side as I will add mounts in the future. It's built with what I had laying around. If I were to design from scratch it would be a little different. I don't have a pic without the wood. I drew on a picture to show you what's under there. (I tried taking a picture underneath and didn't work well. Lol)

I used two 3"x3" x1/4" sq tubing that lays inside the frame rails and bolts to the frame with grade 8 1/2" bolts. The rear tube is also the same 3" sq tube. (I had some 4" I was going to use for rear bumper but it was too thick walled for a sewer hose to fit) I offset the rear tube up so the wood lay flat and parallel to the top of the tube. (Thanks to Bork for awesome idea there).
Each side rail is 2x 1/4" sq tube. I also welded a piece of 2x 1/4" sq tube across the 3" tubing coming out of the frame rails spaced back about 16". The purpose of this tube is to allow me to add an 18" long 2" receiver hitch when I have time.
I used 1.5 x 1/4" angle iron for the portion right across the bus bumper, as well as 3 cross members (front to rear) to support the wood.
On the outer edges where the wood meets the side rail 2" tubing I had some 1" sq tube so I used it to support the wood there.

One other note: if you look at the bumper I welded a short piece of 1" tubing to the bumper. I did this to help support some of the weight if needed. (I'm a little worried about the 1.5" angle iron at the front of the platform depending on what I hang on the platform in the future.)
Currently there as two short tack welds holding the platform to the bumper that I used during setup. I built this so I could unbolt and remove in the future if needed. I still have more to add including a charcoal grill mount... hope this helps clear up the questions. Please ask if you have more and see where I can improve!!

Frochevy 09-22-2018 10:27 AM

The picture above is from the Kansas State vs University of Texas San Antonio tailgate. We had just finished frying up around 20 lbs of chicken wings and some Nashville Hot Chicken!

plfking 09-22-2018 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy (Post 291713)
I drew on a picture to show you what's under there. (I tried taking a picture underneath and didn't work well. Lol)

I offset the rear tube up so the wood lay flat and parallel to the top of the tube. (Thanks to Bork for awesome idea there).

A picture with explanations is even better than a pic! Thanks for taking the time. I like the look of the wood sitting inside the frame.

Mine will only be 22"-24" deep.....I plan on carrying a 250cc dual sport on it, and raising and lowering with a 2500 lb ATV winch mounted at the back edge of the roof.

Frochevy 09-30-2018 08:42 PM

New to me Camper parts!
 
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We headed up to Nebraska for a wedding this weekend, so on the way back I stopped by a place and looked at some camper parts for sale.

I picked up an Atwood 34,000 btu furnace model 8535-iv-dclp. I got the copper line, fittings to go to pipe, and also the rubber hose and regulator to hook up the propane tank. $100 (I think this is a good deal compared to $5-$600 new)

I also picked up a door that was in really good shape. It has good screen and latches all look good. I'll just need to get some keys. $130 (Not sure what these sell for used...)

He also had an Iota power distribution panel with fuses and breakers. It had a DLS-55 DC power convertor. He was wanting $150 for that whole setup. I didn't buy it because I wasn't sure if it was a good deal. If I bought it, would it work for a basis for my electrical in the bus? I assume with a system like this, I can hook up to a battery and it converts it to 110v ac? I notice it plugs in. Does that charge the battery up when you are hooked to shore power? What else would I need? I would plan to get some wiring with this as well including the battery cables as long battery cables would be expensive. So hopefully you all will let me know if I should go back for the power convertor.

Frochevy 09-30-2018 08:50 PM

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here's a few pics of the power distribution panel. And a bad pic of the mess of wiring behind it. (I was trying to show the power convertor)

The question is... is this stuff worth $150 or should I buy new?

Frochevy 12-21-2018 09:11 PM

Tailgating season is over
 
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Well, college football games are over for us this year. So time to get to work on the bus instead of using it. I smoked some brisket and pork loin today which equals a pretty open day for me to work on whatever while babysitting the smoker. I was able to get the final four seats removed as well as the rest of front cushions/stops. I started pulling up the rubber and it sucks. Good glue was used apparently. I used sheet metal vise grips to hold onto it while I pulled it off of the wood. I removed what screws I could that held the rear sheet of plywood down. Then used a large crowbar to pop the wood over there screws I couldn't get out.

One note when doing this is to pry in line of the screws so your pry point is right over the cross member below. This keeps from warping up the floor.

I have more rust than I thought below. I knew I had some in front of the rear heater. I hope I don't run into much more. I can't believe how thin the floor sheet metal is. I'll replace with heavier guage than what's in there now. Any thoughts on insulation and/or coating and plywood thickness I should put down?

Frochevy 12-26-2018 08:51 PM

Floor panel to weld or not to weld?
 
Let me start by saying I'm surprised I'm actually asking this question. Ive been a welder in the past before I got into manufacturing engineering. I have multiple welders including mig, engine driven stick and and also a 220v Stick/Tig welder. I've replaced floorplans in old vehicles,etc. However, I know that adhesive technology has came a long way in the past 10-20 years. I will be replacing some sections of the floor in my bus. I noticed the original is very thin and not welded in. My question is:

Is anyone "gluing" floor panels in vs welding?

If I weld, a lap joint welded on top is easy to fit up and easy to weld. Then has a place for rust to start. I could set up a butt joint with complete penetration and have less chance for rust to start.

Or I'm thinking about setting up a lap joint (easy to set up) and using 3m panel adhesive. This should be sandable and also able to fill in small holes,etc.

Even crazier note, I am thinking about using some of the inside roof skin for part of a floor section? Has anyone done this? I want to do this right as I don't want rust in a few years....

Thoughts?

Link to amazon here:
3M 08115 Panel Adhesive & 3M 08571 Manual Applicator Gun w/ABN Sticker [Misc.] https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00KSF9TCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nLdjCbRB4WKHV

Frochevy 12-26-2018 08:54 PM

3m panel adhesive
 
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Couldn't get the link to work right....

3M 08115 Panel Adhesive & 3M 08571 Manual Applicator Gun w/ABN Sticker [Misc.] https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00KSF9TCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nLdjCbRB4WKHV

o1marc 12-26-2018 10:20 PM

Important factor when deciding how much insulation to add to the floor is how tall you are. Buses are normally 6' or 6'3", if your tall, you'll want all the head room yo can get, which limits thickness of floor insulation unless you plan on a roof raise.
I used metal patches glued down with LocTite construction glue (Liquid Nails). Once sealed and covered with rigid foam insulation no one sees it.
OMG, that 3M stuff is a bit pricey.

Mark_In_MA 12-27-2018 02:30 AM

I'd consider it. Some of the adhesive advertise that the adhesive joint will actually be stronger then the metal its joining. (Kinda like gluing balsa with super glue - the glue won't fail, the Balasa will splinter first.)

I'm not even sure I'd spring for the 3M stuff on the floor. While you want it watertight, it's a panel that's going to be sitting horizontally, on top of another panel, with a sheet of wood/foam on top of it. There's very little lateral force on it. I'm fairly sure that the metal under the floor is to keep the bus weathertight more then anything else. The plywood takes most of the load.

Frochevy 12-27-2018 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by o1marc (Post 302505)
Important factor when deciding how much insulation to add to the floor is how tall you are. Buses are normally 6' or 6'3", if your tall, you'll want all the head room yo can get, which limits thickness of floor insulation unless you plan on a roof raise.
I used metal patches glued down with LocTite construction glue (Liquid Nails). Once sealed and covered with rigid foam insulation no one sees it.
OMG, that 3M stuff is a bit pricey.

I'm only 5'9". Before tearing the floor out I had 76" in the middle of the bus. I should have around 77" now the rubber and ply wood is gone. I haven't torn a ceiling panel off yet. I don't plan to raise the roof (at least with my first bus).

I have to replace floor pans in sections. Even tho no one will see it, I'll know it's there... Lol

o1marc 12-27-2018 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy (Post 302577)
I'm only 5'9". Before tearing the floor out I had 76" in the middle of the bus. I should have around 77" now the rubber and ply wood is gone. I haven't torn a ceiling panel off yet. I don't plan to raise the roof (at least with my first bus).

I have to replace floor pans in sections. Even tho no one will see it, I'll know it's there... Lol

How much headroom will you lose when you insulate and add flooring?

Frochevy 12-27-2018 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_In_MA (Post 302517)
I'd consider it. Some of the adhesive advertise that the adhesive joint will actually be stronger then the metal its joining. (Kinda like gluing balsa with super glue - the glue won't fail, the Balasa will splinter first.)

I'm not even sure I'd spring for the 3M stuff on the floor. While you want it watertight, it's a panel that's going to be sitting horizontally, on top of another panel, with a sheet of wood/foam on top of it. There's very little lateral force on it. I'm fairly sure that the metal under the floor is to keep the bus weathertight more then anything else. The plywood takes most of the load.

I've read the same things you are saying and it makes sense to me. That's why I'm considering it. You do make a good point regarding the 3m adhesive. It is expensive and is probably over kill. I actually thought about just using a normal seam sealer as well.

Frochevy 12-27-2018 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by o1marc (Post 302579)
How much headroom will you lose when you insulate and add flooring?

I'm not sure. I have to decide on flooring first... Lol I'm asking for opinions... I thought about some 1" close cell insulation (like maybe the pink insulation sheets?) Then cover with 1/2" ply wood followed by a vinyl click together "wood look" flooring over the top of the plywood... If I go that route I would be back to around 1 3/4" used up? So I would have 75" give or take in the middle of the bus?

I would like to remove the metal sheeting on inside of ceiling and add insulation and tongue and groove boards like some have done.

If I could only insulate one place it would probably be the roof...

o1marc 12-27-2018 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy (Post 302583)
I'm not sure. I have to decide on flooring first... Lol I'm asking for opinions... I thought about some 1" close cell insulation (like maybe the pink insulation sheets?) Then cover with 1/2" ply wood followed by a vinyl click together "wood look" flooring over the top of the plywood... If I go that route I would be back to around 1 3/4" used up? So I would have 75" give or take in the middle of the bus?

I would like to remove the metal sheeting on inside of ceiling and add insulation and tongue and groove boards like some have done.

If I could only insulate one place it would probably be the roof...

Be a total waste to insulate only one place, though insulating the ceiling will definitely ward off some dirt sunlight heat, but if you plan on spending any time in the bus ceiling, walls, and floor need to be insulated.

Frochevy 12-27-2018 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by o1marc (Post 302584)
Be a total waste to insulate only one place, though insulating the ceiling will definitely ward off some dirt sunlight heat, but if you plan on spending any time in the bus ceiling, walls, and floor need to be insulated.

Yeah over the summer in the sun, the ceiling inside was very hot to the touch. So I at least want to ditch the metal ceiling panels. I plan to insualte the walls as well. If I keep the original bus windows I think that will be a lot of heat loss/heat coming in summer. I've made some covers for the windows to try and they work well. I also plan to remove the original bus door and put in a camper door.

We'll just be camping and tailgating. So not too long of periods staying in it. All I know is last summer when it's 100 degrees out it's that or worse in the bus if parked and not running with AC on. So I want to be comfortable in 100 degree heat and warm in cold weather as well...

Frochevy 03-15-2019 11:03 PM

Floor removal
 
2 Attachment(s)
Well after seeing all the motivation of you good folks on this site, I have been motivated to get back to work on my bus. I now have my 3rd child on the ground. He is about two weeks old now! I am finally done getting ready for another kid and I am able to work on some projects here and there.

I had a buddy stop by after work this evening and help me pull the rest of the rubber mat. I have had back issues in the past and I didn't want to mess it up again yanking on that! I ran a straight hoe under it while he pulled and it came up very quickly. I was able to remove most of the bolts with my cordless impact with only a few stripping out. Some that were really gummed up I cleaned out with an awl and/or used a hammer to seat the torx bit down into the head before using the impact. There was a slight splatter of a red adhesive between the plywood and the galvanized sheet metal floor. I used a crow bar to pop the wood up. The sheet metal is very thin so I tried to stay over a support when prying.

I'll get better pics after I get everything cleaned out and put in the trailer to head to the dump.

farok 03-16-2019 06:52 AM

Looking good so far! Thanks for posting, and congrats on the new member of the family!

Frochevy 03-16-2019 10:06 PM

Roof panels
 
4 Attachment(s)
I had some little helpers today picking up the floor screws and sweeping. I got all of the wood and rubber thrown into the trailer that will go to the dump.

Then I decided to take a few roof panels down to see what I'm dealing with. It looks like the roof panels are 22 gauge. I plan to use the panels to repair sections of the floor.

I have a few questions I would like some input:

1. I was thinking of going with the foil faced polyiso insulation on the floor. Initially was going with 1", then put 1/2" ply wood back over it. Should I go 1/2" on floor,? Or should I do something totally different on the floor?

2. What should I insulate roof with? I know in the summer the roof panels get hot to the touch. I think this is due to steel on steel. I plan to use wood of some sort for the ceiling but want to keep fair amount of head room. Any thoughts?

3. Walls? Same polyiso? 1"?

4. Windows? I'm really thinking about getting some sheet metal and removing all side windows then put a few RV windows with screens back in where needed. Any down falls to this idea? I've seen others do it and like how it looks!

5. Propane storage- I'm thinking of making a storage area at passenger rear to hold two grill size propane bottles. There will be open bottom and access door on the outside. I'm not sure if this is legal for Kansas but not sure where to find out? Although not sure why it wouldn't be legal. I just want ensure it is safe if I do it.

I have more I'm sure but I'll limit it to 5 for now... Lol thanks for your input!!

Frochevy 03-16-2019 10:09 PM

Little helpers
 
2 Attachment(s)
Here's my helpers today... And most days I'm in the bus... Lol

Rovobay 03-16-2019 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy (Post 314765)

I have a few questions I would like some input:

1. I was thinking of going with the foil faced polyiso insulation on the floor. Initially was going with 1", then put 1/2" ply wood back over it. Should I go 1/2" on floor,? Or should I do something totally different on the floor?

2. What should I insulate roof with? I know in the summer the roof panels get hot to the touch. I think this is due to steel on steel. I plan to use wood of some sort for the ceiling but want to keep fair amount of head room. Any thoughts?

3. Walls? Same polyiso? 1"?

4. Windows? I'm really thinking about getting some sheet metal and removing all side windows then put a few RV windows with screens back in where needed. Any down falls to this idea? I've seen others do it and like how it looks!

5. Propane storage- I'm thinking of making a storage area at passenger rear to hold two grill size propane bottles. There will be open bottom and access door on the outside. I'm not sure if this is legal for Kansas but not sure where to find out? Although not sure why it wouldn't be legal. I just want ensure it is safe if I do it.

Hey, I can tell you what i did and why. take it with a grain of salt!

1. insulation depends on your temperture range you plan to encounter. I will be in cold weather at high elevations when I go Elk hunting in Oregon in OctNov. I went with 2" insulation on the floor. Something else to consider is your overall height of the interior and how much space you need. how tall are you or the tallest person using the bus.

2. some people spray foam but that can be spendy. I just used foam board 1.5" fit flush with the ribs of my bus. I am in the process of a cedar tongue and groove board install. boards are an inch thick, so I am lowering the roof by 1 inch.

3. chair rails in my bus were sticking out 1.5 inches so I built out the walls 1.5 inches and used 2x2 (actual size is 1.5x1.5) for framing. worked out pretty good.

4. no input but curious as I have several windows I salvaged from a camper I gutted for my build

5. see my build thread for what I did for my propane tanks. my build thread is in the link below my signature here.

Cheers!!!


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