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NomadicAlien 06-28-2018 01:41 PM

Subfloor insulation inquiry
 
Hellooo again. We are putting the subfloor in today and stuff, and i was wondering if we should glue the insulation down with some kind of adhesive? Or if after we add the plywood on top and screw it down if that would be enough to hold it down properly?


And for the walls and ceilings we were just gonna fit it into the holes and Put the panels up ( we are making repurposed pallet panels for the half walls ) because we cant afford spray foam and this is what we had to use.

Advice is awesome, rude comments not needed, and if u think it was answered in another forum or thread please just kindly direct me, as Iíve been searching but figured Iíd ask. Thanks. :Thanx:

thrifty1 06-28-2018 01:45 PM

Iím going with the full floating floor method to stop from putting holes in my new metal floor, and gluing the insulation to the floor, then gluing the plywood to that, then build on that etc. I think it depends on how many screws youíre planning on using whether or not you need adhesive.

2martins 07-10-2018 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thrifty1 (Post 277826)
Iím going with the full floating floor method to stop from putting holes in my new metal floor, and gluing the insulation to the floor, then gluing the plywood to that, then build on that etc. I think it depends on how many screws youíre planning on using whether or not you need adhesive.

I haven't used screws or adhesive yet except around one edge. The insulation is wedged in there tight and isn't moving. I hate the idea of gluing the plywood down just in case I need to lift it for some reason. If the floor can float, can the subfloor- well partially? ? I'm going to screw stuff into it around the wheel wells and anything else that I will put the floating floor around.

I framed our the front of the bus before the steps and put a step down framed area by the side door.

Is there a minimum I should glue the subfloor down? Will my edges come up and cause problems with uneven moisture later if I don't at least do the edges?

thrifty1 07-10-2018 06:43 AM

I just finished my subfloor project yesterday and what I found was that even with t&g, I had parts of the floor that were bending up in areas around the corners. Ultimately I had to use adhesive and heavy weight to get it set flush, especially up near the drivers area where the weird cut was. If yours sets flat I would think it would be fine.

2martins 07-12-2018 11:08 AM

I had one section where 3 pieces meet and it did not want to stay flat so I put a piece of stiff metal under that junction and used sikkaflex to glue the subfloor to the metal rather than the insulation. My hope is that if I need to remove a section of plywood that I will be able to do it without destroying the insulation underneath AND my edges will stay down. It seems to be working fine in that area so I am considering doing the same in other areas where it's not perfectly flat instead of using floor leveler. Did anyone use floor patch and level? Our underlayment is really thin although the flooring is fairly stiff so it MAY be fine, but I don't want to have to do it twice!
Quote:

Originally Posted by thrifty1 (Post 279675)
I just finished my subfloor project yesterday and what I found was that even with t&g, I had parts of the floor that were bending up in areas around the corners. Ultimately I had to use adhesive and heavy weight to get it set flush, especially up near the drivers area where the weird cut was. If yours sets flat I would think it would be fine.


mikeypj 01-05-2019 06:39 PM

I laid a floating sub floor and used t-n-g. What a PIA this turned out to be..one tube of glue didnt work on 1 1/2 sheets of plywood..i even used weights on it. So I'm at the point..do i tear it out or run screws through the floor pan...oh..and my 3/4 sheets of insulation are off enough in thickness that it affected the joints in the plywood. Ahhh....goodtimes

jimburke77502 01-05-2019 08:24 PM

!st off, did you glue the foam board insolation down? 2nd, what was the steel floor treated/sealed with? 3rd, did you level the bus before doing any of this because if the bus is parked in away it's even slightly twisted, then your floor will follow. I understand that you don't want to put a ton of screws in your floor, but you're going to have to put some. The design I'm working on for my future bus is as follows....... Obviously cleaning, rust treatment, and a good paint. Owens Corning storm guard will go down next.(a self adhesive roofing underlay that when punctured by nails/screws, seals in around them.) This will be followed by 3/4 inch dow board, and then 5/8 inch T&G advantech will be screwed down. Anything that gets glued, will be done with Locktite PL375 because I have yet to have found a surface that it won't glue and or compromise the material. Finished floor will be a radiant barrier with click lock vinyl.

Gdog 5651 01-05-2019 10:23 PM

I glued down 1.5" pinkboard and then glued down 3/4" Dri Max I used no screws or framing if the Dri Max or Advantech is flat when installed I can't imagine it lifting anywhere providing it is not installed too tightly. My floor is flat solid and true.I too used Pl Adhesive worked well. Gene


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